It’s best to think of a turntable like a structure with the deck itself being the foundation for the tonearm and then finally the cartridge.
A lot of this was covered back in the early '80s by reviewers, doubtless wanting to find out for themselves. I recall one big test of 3 different systems at two price levels (so 6 systems in all) where the proportion spent on the parts of the system varied. Needless to say the panel overwhelmingly preferred the two systems where the most resource had been put towards the source. What was more interesting was that with the various sources they also went further and swapped around tonearms and cartridges. The result was interesting. Sticking the best cartridge on anything less than the best turntable, did not outperform the best turntable with the least expensive separate tonearm and cartridge. Even sticking the best tonearm and best cartridge on the second best turntable did not outperform the best turntable with the least expensive separate tonearm and cartridge.
Of all the upgrades I’ve done on the past 2 or so years, the arm and phono stage have brought significant improvements to the output from my Gyro SE. The change from Rb330 to the Rb3000 was quite noticeable. Which did surprise me.
My head is around £1200 for the next cartridge. I was trying to check if that felt about right, given the other bits.
The next stage will be to get guidance on what to actually buy!
I think the suggestion is you want the orbe before putting a £1200 cart on the gyro.
Assuming the price to change is favourable, and perhaps contrary to what you might imagine, the better deck is able to get more out of a lesser arm and cart than the other way around.
When I sorted out my TT upgrade, my spending / decision making was the largest spend was the TT itself, then the arm, and finally the cart.
Particularly given the delicacy of the signal being transmitted.
I replaced the original lead on my Systemdek with a new Roksan phono cable recently, was a nice improvement. I do not know if the Michell has a replaceable phono cable. I think I do recall the cabling in the RB3000 tonearm being pretty high quality though?
Always difficult to know what cabling is inside a commercial tonearm. Given that it’s Rega’s best, I’d like to think it should not need changing yet. But who knows?
My dealer has mentioned cartridges in the £2.5k to £3.5k bracket, which I think is bonkers! The basis for this being the Rb3000s ability to deal with these cartridges. My pocket is at £1200!
As @IanRobertM says flat earth says an LP 12, with biro for a tonearm and pin for a stylus as the starting point I’m reluctant to say this but I’m at adds with @Richard.Dane. I remember that review Richard, without wishing to be controversial I think the reviewers took communion at Drakemire Drive.
Touraj of Roksan/Vertere fame maintains the arm is the most important element and I’m inclined to agree. Back in the 80s I used to go to a dealer in N London who would demonstrate a Michell Focus with Ittok and good moving coil up against a LP12/LVX/K9, to my ears the Michell won the day. Similarly, on 2 occasions I’ve heard quite brilliant systems with a relatively high end MC in a Michell Technoarm. But always more than one way to skin a cat.
Lindsay, I always remain open minded, and where would we be without testing and finding exceptions to every so-called “rule”… I’m just relaying what was heard by a panel when they put these questions to a very comprehensive test. Ultimately, if you prefer things a different way then that’s fine by me.
Yes, sorry, I replaced the phono cable (arm to plugs) the tonearm cable is original Tabriz. I suspect your tonearm cable is just fine!
I’m honestly not sure how you audition turntable components. Or how you compare with what you have. I think it is more likely that you buy into a given manufacturer’s approach. Certainly that behaviour is common on here, Rega proponents upgrading decks and packages, Linn owners trading up through bearing and chassis updates etc. Pretty much the thing with most freedom is the cartridge, and according to the above, the thing that “matters least” X)
I reckon if you read reviews of any proposed replacement, and it’s reasonably similar in electrical characteristics to your current cartridge, you won’t go far wrong. How bad can a £1200 cartridge sound!? 8)
It’s worth remembering that the wire on the RB3000 runs continuously from the cartridge tags to the RCA plugs, so you can’t replace the arm lead without a full rewire. And why would you do that? The ‘package’ cartridge with the Rega 10 is the Apheta 3, which costs £1,375 if bought by itself. Rega also make the Aphelion 2, which costs £3,465, which works happily with the P10 and costs almost as much as the deck and arm combined. What that means in the scheme of things I’ve no idea.
A Linn LP12 is like climbing a mountain, it might not be the highest or have the best view but it looks like it’s a fair way up and once you’re on it it’s easier to keep going up than to go back down and start another one from scratch, especially as someone has cut some steps to help you.
Naim play the same game with their systems, though as yet not their turntable.
It’s just people’s desire for something better, or to have (what they perceive as) the latest and greatest. Anyone can buy an entry-level Majik LP12 and stay there. I’ve still got my original 80s deck, albeit with a better arm (Akito bearings failed), a different plinth and new lid and AC motor. It seems Linn is sometimes blamed for human nature.
I’ll not be changing out the cables in my Rb3000, as you say they are continuous from tab to decent RCAs.
But, what Rega have shown, is that the Rb3000 ( with or without the P10?), is happy with a £3k cartridge.
The nice thing about the top Rega arms is that they work their magic on anything from a budget MM upwards. I also happen to think that once you get to a certain level of performance from your TT you’ll benefit from a top performance arm like the Rega.
An RB1000 absolutely transformed the performance of my Valhalla / Cirkus LP12 / 2M Bronze, compared to the same deck with Grace 707 / Supex MC.
In all cases you will be limited by the characteristics of the RB300. I can’t handle cartridges heavier than 11 g approximately.
For 1k I would recommend the Lyra Delos or Van den Hull. Or eventually Dynavector 20 . All three can match very well with the Rb3000.
…there is a real-world way to sideline the question…get a turntable package from a manufacturer who makes all of the components. Mix and matches will inevitably have additional compromises, admittedly which might be overcome by advantages. One thing, for me, is certain…the cartridge is the least important of the three bolted together components…and the TT is the most important.
I’m reluctant to say this but I’m at adds with