What speakers are you using?
My reaction was the same, going from the same system you did.
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I have Focal Kanta no.3.
Powerlines on all Naim boxes.
TP Koltura DIN-DIN
Jorma Unity speaker cables.
Jorma Origo power cables on both Nucleus and SotM switch.
Jorma Ethernet on NDX2.
It can be the room too. The 252/300DR is generally regarded to be superior to the 282/250DR but I remember someone here preferring the 250DR over 300DR for better bass control in his room. Anyway just let the amps settle in as suggested by many here.
If the sound doesnât improve much after few days or weeks, you may try adjusting the positioning of the speakers before considering something more drastic such as throwing more money at the system.
I always wish Naim will have a YouTube video on a proper way to exercise. I always imagine if I have done if right or not.
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Naim amplifiers work best with >= 3.5M* of Naim speaker cables. Like NAC A5.
Or at least speaker cables that are electrically similar (Inductance & capacitance-wise especially). Do you know the I, C & R per M of the Jorma Unity speaker cables? If not, best to try Naim speaker cables.
* 5-6M is highly recommended. Some prefer even longer.
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Jorma doesnât publish inductance or capacitance numbers, but I have been using different tiers of their cables on different Naim amps for years without problem. I have had both NACA5 and Superlumina, but NACA5 sounds rolled off at both ends and SL too hyper detailed and fatiguing for long listening sessions, at least for my taste.
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I have very reflective room and have been fighting with treble fatigue for long time. It had been eliminated after I had optimized network upstream. Like deploying right Ethernet cables, isolators, and power supplies for every single devices that are connected to the network including router, access points, and even Philips Hue Bridge that controls lighting. Just tiny bit of treble fatigue is back with 252/300, but I am sure it will go away after they settle.
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That is my experience as well, cutting off at both frequency extremes.
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I think first of all when it comes to Naim you have to unlearn all those hifi things that work for other brands.
My room is 3 sides concrete and 1 side full-glass, was fatiguing to death when I first have Naim. In the end Iâm able to make Linn Kan sounds rich, balanced and good prat without changing and adding anything. Unbelievable but it works â saying this as my other gears are valve and class a amplifiers.
What I only do is âback to basicâ like Geko, Richard and other said â use wooden rack like Isoblue, Fraim is better still, remove all the fancy feet because bandwidth is well-set between Naim boxes. What the feet do is tighten/lean up the sound and kill low ends, and you can imagine highs that suppose to have adequate body would become thin and peaky like needles.
The floor protector I only use is Naim Fraim chips, it only for the spikes to kill most of the vibration of the rack to preserve the low level information, but not killing musical information from the boxes.
In the whole Naim setup process the virtue is âlet the signal flowsâ, so no important cables like Burndy, snaic touching the wall or floor or mains cable, and donât let the mains cable crossing the speaker cables. If you want a warm, rich and darker balance and sweet highs best to have 10 metres Naca 5.
You need these because the boxes were designed to work like this, and with system more revealing like 252 itâs all you have to do.
You only add isolators when it all doesnât work, otherwise it adds fatiguing factors because it alters the signals in unexpected ways.
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When a Naim system setup right you should hear neither âroll offâ nor âfatiguingâ, it just shows the music mastered in such way. Everything should be presented in coherent way.
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Have you tried solving that actual problem or you only try to solve it with the equipment? After all what you hear is 50% of the room acoustics. If not treating a bad room you will end up with an endless fight with your system.
I just looked up Isoblue racks, and I actually like how they look. I also like they are not tall. I ended up building USM haller and using IsoAcoustics feet because all the racks I could get here were so tall and would disturb my TV screen. Itâs true I could benefit from more wood in my reflective room. Will see if I can get them here too. Thanks.
Yes, I had hoped that Jason might help do one. Iâll discuss with him next time I see him.
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Have been trying to solve with equipments. And somehow had succeeded on 282/250 system. There is not much I can do with acoustics until I decide to tear down the front wall. I am pretty sure it will be fine when 252/300 bed in and my awaiting DIN-XLR arrives.
Well that is the opposite to my experience. Funny how we all hear things differently. With NAC A5 itâs nothing about frequency extremes, that doesnât even come into question once terminated properly, but how it all gels the music together in a timely & engaging fashion. All of the other stuff goes out of the window IMHO.
Sorry to sound like a bit of a zealot here but thatâs my experience 
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Maybe different personal preference, or system dependent. I know many experienced members here praise Naim cables including NACA5, Superlumina, Lavender DIN, and bundle DIN-XLR. But only Naim cables I liked in my systems are Powerline and Hiline. And in case of Powerline, I prefer it on all classic boxes from 252/300 to Supernait, or even NAPSC over very very expensive alternatives like Jorma Statement or Siltech Crown. But I didnât like it on neither Uniti Star nor Nova. I have found Oyaide Vondita X and Jorma Origo work magic on both Unitis.
In my experience upstream of the Poweramp, with only one exception, Naim interconnects and powerleads have always won out.
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I agree with you 100% Stephen and to be honest when I read the list of Jorma and TP cables my heart sank. I use NACA5, a Hi Line interconnect, and everything else is stock cabling and I have no hint of harshness, frequency cut off or any other issues. I would stongly suggest to the OP a step back to stock Naim cabling and give it chance to settle. When the new XLR-DIN cables arrive they are probably going to need a burn in period and not sound right initially, and then you might want to try changing something else, and on and on it goesâŚâŚ
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I have switched back to Naim original cables many times before. Only Powerline and Hiline are cables I would use in my system. Different room, different speakers, and different earsâŚ
And I will need to tell you both Jorma and TP Koltura are very organic sounding cables, although Jorma is extremely expensive and Koltura is cheap.
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