Hi Mike,
As you’re not that far away from me, we could meet for a coffee and you could borrow a set of mine to try out, to see if they work for you and hence if it’s worth you developing a more sophisticated solution.
Some are playing bridge, other with silicon nitride. 
Kind offer Xanthe, as it happens I’m in Bath & Wells at the end of Jan. Problem is I can’t get into any mount experiments at the moment. I will eventually be going Pre/streamer & active speakers and that will be when I can get going on this.
Are you adding glass and supports to the Fraim Lite? Naughty boy,
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I certainly am, picked up the glass yesterday. My Fraim and SL cables are being installed by my long suffering dealer on Tuesday. To get the full fat Fraim was almost $7ks, Mrs Pete would kill me if I spent that on a rack. All up, 4 shelves for the lite plus glass etc under $4ks. It’s a no brainer.
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That’s great and exactly what I’d do if I wasn’t using the TV cabinet. I think with hindsight, the dome nuts you have are better than separate nuts and balls, as mine have slid off a few times during set up. That probably isn’t such an issue with the Fraim as you can get direct access to the back. Well, that should be a great overall upgrade next week, very exciting. Do you have a S/L interconnect from the 272 (is there such a thing?).
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I hear yah 
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I use my Unitiserve as a source (like you use the Core) but I play it using Naim DC1 directly to the 272, so no network involved. I only use the network when I stream through the house. I have started to upgrade my internet cables.
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I was also thinking about from the 272 to 250, is there a S/L for that, or is it a stock cable? Just thinking about synergy with the speaker cable?
It’s connected by those Burndy cable, I also have the Power Line cables. Don’t believe all the crap re the 272 it’s an excellent pre amp and the 250DR is a favourite of many reviewers.
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Yes, I’m not convinced separate pre/powers are needed. Best to work with maximising what you have.
Part of setting up Fraim is to tap the glass in each of the four possible orientations to find the best ring, reflect on that.
Is that the same for Lite?
What is the black bit for ?
If the brass has a bowl shaped surface, is the black bit necessary ?
Would it make any difference in how the brass interfaces with what it’s sitting on. Such as a tight fitting recess, blue tak or a thin rubber adhesive ?
Lite doesn’t have glass, adding I some on dome nuts doesn’t make it full Fraim but it won’t do any harm to test the ring of the glass.
The better the ring the less vibration is escaping through contact with its supports and thus the better the reflection from that interface.
Is the brass bit a blanking plug for a plumbers compression fitting?
The Burndy doesn’t connect the 272 to the 250. It’s a DIN to XLR lead and the standard lavender is ok but you can buy a SL if you have the money sitting around.
Best
David
Sorry you are right it’s connected to XPS DR.
So are you using Fraim glass, or the eqivalent spec Pilkington stuff, for your experiments?