Broadcom and Lantiq for sure. I’d expect something like the Draytek modem to do a reasonable job and interop sufficiently, it’s been tested and verified by BT. TalkTalk use Huawei MSAN’s from memory so the lowest common denominators here like loop length and AFE capability in the modem should be consistent.
No idea if it sounds any better of course 
@Blackmorec Sounds like you’ve really thought this out and gone through a number of steps to achieve a beneficial setup overall. I took a similar approach with my Virgin Media Superhub, disabling all functionality and doing the rest elsewhere in more capable and configurable hardware. I’ve not replaced any PSU’s or done any special isolation so kudos to you for your efforts.
Simon, I used the very useful site you linked a while ago to find that I had a Huawei cabinet but I had been using an OpenReach-provided ECI modem. It seems OpenReach aren’t that fussy about matching cabinet type with modem, or at least that was the case when VDSL started rolling out. Anyway, I picked up a Huawei modem on eBay and have been using that for a while. Can’t say as I can see any tangible difference in sync speed, reliability or throughput but then I’m probably only a 100m from the cabinet.
If you want to use your own router (I use a Ubiquiti USG) it’s easy to pick up ECI and Huawei modems on eBay for a fraction of the price of a new Vigor 130, so you can use this route together with the information on the Kitz site to get a cheap modem that matches your cabinet.
I’m currently with Plusnet. Their current router is the Hub One, which is basically a repackaged BT Homehub 5, so even that is, let’s say, a rather mature device… This replaced the Hub Zero which I think was ADSL only and so still required an OpenReach modem to use FTTC.
If you are 100m from the cab, then this all becomes largely academic. If you were 500 metres away, and perhaps with some overhead wiring, it could be a different story.
The Vigor 130 uses Lantiq chipset, and might be seen as more performant with ECI cabinets on longer lines.
However to put in perspective all DrayTek products have passed Openreach SIN 498 interoperability testing… which means their products communicate with all current Openreach cabinets… however what we are referring to here is the performance on longer VDSL lines, say above 400 metres. This is where performance falls off quickly and modem chipset optimisation and interoperability becomes more acute.
I’m in the US. I use a Motorola 6580 Modem, and a Asus RT-AC68U wireless router.
I just wondered if there was a better box for higher SQ that I could plug my ethernet cables into other than the standard domestic box that I have.
I didn’t expect the Spanish Inquisition. 
No one expects the Spanish Inquisition
rooter, router or rooster?
a dedicated switch for nas and streamer as the cisco 2960.
Personally i can’t change my router, it provides me tv, phone and ethernet. It’s a crap one but the serve and streamer are not connected to it.
No there isn’t, although whatever you connect directly to your audio equipment might shift the sound slightly ( through changing of the low level noise ). I think this was suggested early on in the thread, and the debate has moved on with other forum members
Basic answer use the one you have. You may get some lift using a seperate switch in-between your router and audio gear as claimed by lots on here . Favourites being the Cisco 2960 family. YMMV though as I have not noticed anything that I could hear in changing my router, or adding in Cisco or other switches. Only you can vouch for this and go with what your ears tell you.
I swopped that for a cable from the Bay. It gave a distinct and nasty bass boom to my system so it went back.
I hope you don’t have your system between your speakers then…
@JimDog I should chip in as I’ve been quoted!
I’ve no experience of that particular hardware. My motivation for splitting out functionality to separate hardware was because my Virgin Media cable connection would create connectivity issues on the LAN if there was a problem with the connection to the Virgin network, this included things like lights, heating controls, cameras etc etc. I just found it easier having all that control elsewhere so if/when things went wrong with the primary connection, things like turning lights on/off would still work regardless, physically flicking a mechanical switch in the wall was another option of course.
I also live in an old house split across multiple floors and levels and relying on a single embedded Wi-Fi Access Point wasn’t good across the whole house and garden so I disabled the Virgin gateway features including the Wi-Fi radios and moved that task out to dedicated hardware which in itself was also configured to be a dumb bridge and configured to be managed by a dedicated controller device.
Your environment and needs will differ potentially, you may find just having a more capable router with embedded Wi-Fi is good enough and improves the connectivity in your home. Likewise, most people will just plug in the hardware they get from their ISP and forget about it.
I’d not make any claims about improvements to sound quality or your listening experience, in my case I didn’t make any changes to my home network with audio or system performance in mind, it was mainly about better control of home automation systems and use of enterprise grade hardware to ensure stability and reliability and configurability as needed, without getting too caught up in that aspect and it ending up being more complicated than it need be.
I don’t use any fancy cables or Ethernet Switches personally or any expensive linear power supplies on things like routers or switches, it’s high quality kit designed for enterprise environments but beyond that there aren’t any audio specific tweaks!
I’ve used Ubiquiti hardware as well as Ruckus for router, switch and Wi-Fi radios and found them easy to setup and live with as well as having an extended feature set if you want to enable specific configurations, I have a number of things enabled specific to my work for example.
I’ve not dabbled with xDSL for some years either for work or as a consumer but used Draytek Vigor products a lot as they had good compatibility and a decent feature set. Others on here currently connecting using BT or similar may have more up to date recommendations.
For years I have used my own LAN hardware, and just kept the ISP supplied router for the internet connection. This has worked well, even with the now rather dated Apple Airport devices I used for wired and wireless networking. Recently, my ISP gave me a router ‘upgrade’, and as the new one has 802.11ac WiFi, I decided to try taking out the Airport Extreme and using that instead. It seems to work just as well, so for now I have left the AE out, which means one less box, one less smps, and a bit less electricity used. At no point have I ever felt that any of these changes had any effect on sound quality - but then, I never had any audio gear directly connected to this gear, as it was always via a separate switch.
JimDog, if you’re with PlusNet then I assume you have a PlusNet HubOne router. I don’t think this can be configured to run in “bridge mode” (that is, as a pass-through modem only and not performing any routing functions). Connecting the Linksys router behind the HubOne will create a so-called double NAT, where each router creates its own private network behind the public network address provided by the ISP. Although most things will still work in this situation there are things that might break and it should be avoided if possible.
If you really want to use the LinkSys (or any other router or gateway of your choosing) the best way to do this is to use a modem for your Internet connection, and to connect your router/gateway to the modem. The DrayTek Vigor 130 is a good option for a new device, or you can pick up second-hand BT OpenReach modems for Huawei or ECI cabinets on eBay for £15-20. Keep the HubOne as a backup or for troubleshooting with PlusNet if you have any broadband issues.
As @ChrisSU says, the choice to set up your network this way is likely to be for a host of reasons related to having flexibility and control of your network configuration. Improving sound quality to your streamers isn’t really an important consideration.
The only setting I change on my ISP supplied router is to disable the WiFi, so it remains as DHCP server. I’ve done this successfully with various Plusnet, Talktalk and Sky routers, and it has always worked. I haven’t used Plusnet for a few years, though. Personally, I would ditch them if they didn’t offer this option.
Chris, I’m sure the LinkSys would work behind the PlusNet HubOne, but it would create a double NAT. You’ve been living with double NAT without any issues, and for most use cases it is fine other than adding a bit of latency. It can break some games, or anything that tries to punch a hole through your firewall. And if you want to access your network from outside your home it can make things rather complicated. Other than that, it “should just work”!