This is the kind of result I would be looking at. An architectural model with some landscape/terrain shown, scales generally 1:500, 1:200, 1:100 and 1:50 if possible.
The other advantage is I could print sections through buildings if the building was sufficiently interesting or complex.
This image is plucked from the website simplify 3D and is used for advertising 3D architectural prints, so I dont think it has copyright issues for an architectural firm.
The other considerations for me, would be to make the model as clean and precise as possible. I am not too keen on this off-white colour, pure white would be better. Then, sometimes I would be interested in showing a particular texture if it was important for the architectural design. That would need to be clear at the right scale. I guess thats a slicing/file issue that would need to be investigated.
So in fact having an actual printer may not be necessary after all, especially if your business is bespoke component manufacturing.
What kind of components do you get printed? Any chance of showing an example and what is the material? I assume the component would need to be quite robust for RC car racing?
@JOF here is a buggy I am building at mo. It is based on a VW sandrail and all the white parts are a fake engine just for looks. They will be painted but I am still building it at moment. Objects can be printed in various materials (as I am sure you know) and things like suspension arms are much stronger.
But then I guess the âworkingâ componants will be made from a different material and/or where required the component will have a thicker layer of plastic for strength.
Then just to recap - those white components are designed by you in a proprietary software you have on your computer at home, then you send the file to a web site who then print the component(s) for you. Then the components are delivered to you via the post. And you pay them a small amount for the materials and time.
I think that if you want very clean and accurate prints (no layer lines) then you would either need to use resin printing (but they tend to be more limited in size) or spend some time after printing with files, sandpaper, filler etc.
@JOF no, I am not that clever !
I am on a few RC forums and there are guys on there that design all this stuff. You can ask for a certain part and if others want it and demand is there normally somebody will take the time to design it, then put it on Shapeways in their shop. Me or anybody else then buy it and some cash goes to the designer and the rest to shapeways for using their machines and they post it out.
It works really well as they have cutting edge machines and can even do multi colour printing (I have a drivers head somewhere I will try and dig that out) so its a bit of a win/win for everybody.
A while back I watched a classic car programme on TV and a company was scanning and making 3D printed patterns for many parts. A fascinating watch given itâs far easier to take an existing item/part, scan it (& correct any imperfections in the process), 3D print it and then use as a pattern (if thatâs the right word) for molding/forging.
The kit used was very expensive - think a Statement or 2 IIRC.
@Beachcomber pretty big, I am not sure on rules but if you go on shapeways and have a look around, it is just a printing service and they do anything you can imagine, car parts, gaming pieces etc etc
I checked out the Resin material. Donât think I want to play with that stuff. It seems one should be wearing gloves and a respirator mask when working with this stuffâŚcanât be doing with that especially with kids around and it would need to be close to my work area.
Think I will keep to the standard filament types; PLA, PET and see if there is any marked quality difference between them. I can cope with some mild touching up if necessary.
Yes - pretty much the conclusion I came to. You have to choose your projects. But TBH I find that it isnât too hard to fettle the prints and then, if required, paint them.
Shapeways say they can print using up to 50 types of materials, I never new that was possible and give a little info. on the materials preferred uses and environmental stability and cost. Very good.
Post processing of PLL or PET requires dichlorometane or hot tetrahydrofuran as they are polyesters., neither of these solvents are particularly human friendly!
Easier post processing comes with ABS or ASA which can be post processed using acetone, but the vapour is extremely flamable.
