The pins come forwards out of the plug body.
Here is one from earlier…
Its possible that the rubber strain relief is stuck onto the cable outer perhaps…?
Can’t help on this one but did you ever resolve it with the Allaes?
Success! The inner and outer elastomeric sleeves had bonded requiring judicious use of a narrow screwdriver to separate the surfaces. I was relieved to find a signal wire had become detached from its pin. The re-soldering was fiddly but ultimately successful.
Thank you to all your suggestions.
I always like a simple explanation… 
Glad you ‘got it’…
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PS. Never underestimate the fiddly-ness of soldering DIN plugs.
They are great, one done - but OMG, they are tricky… 
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Re. Allaes
Christopher, Apologies for my inexcusably tardy reply.
Not very well would be the short answer. Despite extensive experiments with positioning (long wall/short wall/close to wall/distant from wall, etc. the Alleas sound boomy with music and nasal with speech, even on the end of NAT02, 52, 2x135.
The saving grace is that I love my UnitiQute 2 / IBL system. I installed it as a TV audio system but found it provided a more enjoyable music source (TIDAL, internet radio). Common wisdom suggests the IBLs would be ‘underwhelmed’ by the UQ2. Absolutely NOT the case.
I’m seriously thinking of selling my main system, some items of which I’ve owned for over thirty years - difficult!
Thank you for your helpful comments - much appreciated.
What puzzled me was that you said the Allaes sounded great with your UQ2. So I thought the obvious thing to do was try a NAP140 (or even NAP90) in place of the 135s. I thought that would be a brilliant system…enough power for the Allaes and heavily front-loaded.
(But I know you said you had a NAP140 in your first set).
In my younger days (at school and Uni) I often soldered DIN plugs because Quad amplifiers used DIN sockets. A fully wired 5 pin DIN plug was always a notable challenge and I can remember still the many moments when I knew that I needed to let go of that wire I had just soldered or I would get a burn and the decision I took depended as much on how badly I wanted to avoid having to solder it again as it did on the pain in the first finger tip of my left hand!
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You are a true martyr to your cause!
I’m all thumbs with things like that, so I wouldn’t even think to try soldering anything!
The 5 pin 180 degree plug is the biggest challenge, certainly. Naim’s use of the 4 pin 216 degree and 5 pin 240 degree gives a bit more space, but not much… 
Beware the NC range, which use DIN plugs with more than 5 pins…
Hi all
I am new to the forum and please forgive me if I am writing in the wrong topic, but I will still take this opportunity to try to explain my problem. I have a black 5din SNAIC to connect the preamplifier to the HiCap. If connected correctly, the green marker should be close to the preamplifier connector and the inscription NAIM SNAIC on the cable goes in the direction from the green marker to the HiCap. On my cable the inscription goes from the HC towards the green marker, that is, vice versa.Has anyone come across such a cable with the inscription backwards? Can anyone tell me how to connect this cable - by the marker or by the inscription?
Maybe the cable is not genuine?
Looks OK to me.
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Hi, Richard!
Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I have read this topic before.
This is not the first time I’ve come across SNAICs, and all of them had the inscription coming from a marker, but this one goes towards it - that’s what confused me
And yet, how to connect this cable using a marker or an inscription?
Direction is determined by listening at the factory so the printing is not a reliable guide. However, to make things a little bit more tricky, I’ve seen SNAICs where the band has loosened to the point where it can be moved up and down the cable. Is the band on your loose at all?
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The green ribbon is glued and the transparent tube fits quite tightly although it rotates a little but it is impossible to move it to the other end.
OK good.
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Thanks again.
So what way round then.?
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