I have a Naim 5 pin Din to 5 pin Din cable connecting a NAT02 to a 52. The cable is grey and 30 years old. One channel in the cable has failed recently. I have attempted to separate the plug from the cable without success. I assume I can re-solder the broken connection.
How do I open the plug?
Many thanks…
If it’s a genuine NAIM SNAIC DIN cable, it has a metal locking body. Remove the screw and the center section with the pins and wires should come out. If it’s a cheap DIN cable, there’s a press locking tab that serves a similar function. Press this in and the center section with the pins and wires should come out.
The one thing to watch is that the sleeve at the end of the plug where the cable comes out can be very a very tight fit and the cable can be hard to both get out and back. You may be lucky and it just comes apart. Do not force it as you may damage the wiring. Be gentle using a small set of pliers to grip one of the pins gently and pull whilst holding the plug body. Sometimes a little lubricant at the end of the sleeve (the correct stuff is called Hellerine from memory) but a SLIGHT application of something like baby oil etc often does the trick. Don’t use too much! Ditto when re-assembling.
Good Luck!
Its not a SNAIC, its an Interconnect. SNAIC’s also carry power.
Thank you for your helpful suggestions. I will follow your guidance and report back on outcome.
Well, I’ve tried opening up the plugs using the suggested technique without success. While there is slight movement it has proved impossible to withdraw the pin section. I fear increased pulling force will damage the plug.
Further suggestions gratefully received.
If you unscrew the little screw in the side of the plug, it should just come apart. Perhaps you could post a picture of what you’ve achieved so far.
The pins come forwards out of the plug body.
Here is one from earlier…
Its possible that the rubber strain relief is stuck onto the cable outer perhaps…?
Can’t help on this one but did you ever resolve it with the Allaes?
Success! The inner and outer elastomeric sleeves had bonded requiring judicious use of a narrow screwdriver to separate the surfaces. I was relieved to find a signal wire had become detached from its pin. The re-soldering was fiddly but ultimately successful.
Thank you to all your suggestions.
I always like a simple explanation…
Glad you ‘got it’…
PS. Never underestimate the fiddly-ness of soldering DIN plugs.
They are great, one done - but OMG, they are tricky…
Re. Allaes
Christopher, Apologies for my inexcusably tardy reply.
Not very well would be the short answer. Despite extensive experiments with positioning (long wall/short wall/close to wall/distant from wall, etc. the Alleas sound boomy with music and nasal with speech, even on the end of NAT02, 52, 2x135.
The saving grace is that I love my UnitiQute 2 / IBL system. I installed it as a TV audio system but found it provided a more enjoyable music source (TIDAL, internet radio). Common wisdom suggests the IBLs would be ‘underwhelmed’ by the UQ2. Absolutely NOT the case.
I’m seriously thinking of selling my main system, some items of which I’ve owned for over thirty years - difficult!
Thank you for your helpful comments - much appreciated.
What puzzled me was that you said the Allaes sounded great with your UQ2. So I thought the obvious thing to do was try a NAP140 (or even NAP90) in place of the 135s. I thought that would be a brilliant system…enough power for the Allaes and heavily front-loaded.
(But I know you said you had a NAP140 in your first set).
In my younger days (at school and Uni) I often soldered DIN plugs because Quad amplifiers used DIN sockets. A fully wired 5 pin DIN plug was always a notable challenge and I can remember still the many moments when I knew that I needed to let go of that wire I had just soldered or I would get a burn and the decision I took depended as much on how badly I wanted to avoid having to solder it again as it did on the pain in the first finger tip of my left hand!
You are a true martyr to your cause!
I’m all thumbs with things like that, so I wouldn’t even think to try soldering anything!
The 5 pin 180 degree plug is the biggest challenge, certainly. Naim’s use of the 4 pin 216 degree and 5 pin 240 degree gives a bit more space, but not much…
Beware the NC range, which use DIN plugs with more than 5 pins…
Hi all
I am new to the forum and please forgive me if I am writing in the wrong topic, but I will still take this opportunity to try to explain my problem. I have a black 5din SNAIC to connect the preamplifier to the HiCap. If connected correctly, the green marker should be close to the preamplifier connector and the inscription NAIM SNAIC on the cable goes in the direction from the green marker to the HiCap. On my cable the inscription goes from the HC towards the green marker, that is, vice versa.Has anyone come across such a cable with the inscription backwards? Can anyone tell me how to connect this cable - by the marker or by the inscription?
Maybe the cable is not genuine?