My rig is 282/250DR, with external power supplies. I have run Vandersteen 2Ce’s forever, the combination of these two brands is the sound I like. I know these speakers do not have much low end, and I have been fine with that. A Vandersteen subwoofer has come up on my area for sale at a very reasonable price, so thinking of trying this route.
However, not sure if I would be able to do the connections due to Naim’s proprietary cabling. Any advice would be appreciated, I have attached a photo of the sub connections and a paragraph from the users manual. As always thanks to the community.
The crossover will have to hang off the hicap.
I suggest you google and find eg a thread on audiogon that includes information from a vandersteen dealer in the US.
The wx2 crossover unit is apparently used only temporarily and then replaced with a proper crossover unit, once you have determined the settings.
Eg.
“… follow the directions that Johnny gave you regarding set up of the subs and use the WX-2 to dial in the proper settings. Once done, either get the Vandersteen M5-HP or call Johnny and get the fixed crossovers.
The WX-2 is for determining the correct settings and is not supposed to be used as a permanent crossover.”
Thank you, will the sub work adequately w/o the crossover, just doing speaker wires from the L/R speakers? The 2Ce’s so have much low end, don’t imagine much of a “crossover”, does that make sense?
My only experience of active subs comes from owning a Naim nSub. The crossover sets the maximum frequency that the sub can play. I believe the nSub could go up to 250Hz. When it was set at that level, it could clearly be heard playing along and in no way would it be acceptable. I ended up with the top frequency being set at about 60Hz, which matched my nSats perfectly.
Without a crossover the sub you are considering will get all frequencies. Looking at the pictures it doesn’t seem to have a way to control the top frequency, which suggests to me that it won’t work without the crossover. I may be wrong but that is how things appear to be.
My instinct would be to forget it, and to get a more conventional sub with a frequency control on the unit itself. It’s far more straightforward.
Sounds like great advice especially since it is not that critical to me. I posted this on the Vandersteen forum site and Richard V answered with person’s name an phone number to contact. He says it is an inset up, but possible.
I would just get a REL. Their high-level inputs work beautifully with Naim gear. You just connect the REL’s high level inputs to the terminals at the speaker. Better yet, get two for a stereo pair and hear your soundstage unfold into something really wonderful.
The REL website is excellent, it includes a ‘sub finder’ with your current speakers and room size used to suggest the appropriate model. Their setup videos etc are very good too. It is clear that they design them to complement HFi not just home theatre.
I am tempted to add one again in my ‘office’ system. I had nSub and nSats years ago there and the sub really pulled the sound together in a large and oddly shaped room. It is not just about chest shaking bass.
Great suggestion Bruce, my speakers were on the list and was able to navigate to the sub that will be best for me.
Then moving to connections, if I am researching this correctly, the Speakon cable that comes with the REL, it has three bare wire leads, the ground goes to the ground post on the 282, and the other two go to the positive of the Left and the Right Speaker Outs of the 282. What is the best way to accomplish this? I have NAIM speaker cables that have bananas that go directly into the 282 speaker out holes.
Not your 282. I think you mean your amp, whatever it is. REL makes a version of the Bassline Blue cable for use with Naim amps, and it has stacking bananas.
You can also connect REL high level (Neutrik/Speakon) cables to the terminals on your speakers. I do exactly that for my stereo pair of S/510. However, if you just have one sub you’ll need to open the shielding on the REL supplied high level cable so that you can connect the black and red on one speaker, and the yellow on the other.
