Hi forum,
I had an electricity down today. Activating the power again, I noticed all worked except the dedicated fuse for my stereo. I use an AHP Klankmodule and I think to copper-coloured fuse broke. See picture; it misses the short-side-closure (don’t know how to say this in English). Basically I can just look into the fuse now.
Am I correct? Is my fuse broke?
Iver
Just to explain. On the picture, you see I can open the whole module tonreplace the fuses. My assumption is that the right one (copper coloured) is broke since the closure is gone; it’s just “open” now.
Am I correct?
Iver
I have the non rebranded Siemens version of the same fuse holder. The pic isn’t very clear but it looks like it’s broken. But you can just take the fuse out to have a better look or pic I think?
@RvL see enclosed
Strange thing is that a website says that a led would light up if the fuse is broken. No led lighning up with me
a led?… where would led that be? I’ve never seen one with a led but I might be wrong.
But led or not, you can still take the fuse out to inspect. I take it you don’t have a spare one to swap?
I have the 3i version of the AHP Klankmodule. Apparently the 4i has
I’ll take it out tomorrow and check
Iver
I’ve noticed you have 16 amp breakers on the lighting circuits. Is that standard in Belgium, in the UK lighting circuits are only rated at 6 amp.
Hi @Fatcat they recommended 16A (alternatively 20A) but reality says I don’t master this topic. Maybe others in the same region as me can comment
Iver
Yes 16A MCBs are standard in most European countries.
@IvdZ - If (…) you need to replace the fuse, you might consider 20 or 24A. With the same fuse, a higher rating typically sounds better.
I took the fuses out. They look as per the pictures. I’d expect the copper-one not to be an “open” tube, or am I wrong @RvL ?
A word of caution here. Before you go uprating fuses here I would check the electrical code carefully. If in doubt consult a qualified electrician who is fully conversant with electrical code for your region.
Ah… that figures. That is not a fuse but a hollow copper connecting rod. I have a solid gold plated one there. There’s only a fuse in the live (phase) side of the AHP holder, the copper rod/tube sits in neutral. The fuse is the white/silver one in other picture.
On the pic you can’t see if the fuse is broken or not. You can measure it or swap it for a new one to find out. If a new one blows too, you’ll have a problem elsewhere.
Add: as you indicated you don’t ‘master this topic’ - it might be wise to contact the person or company that installed it? 
I am gonna bring in an electrician. Too much at stake to make errors here
Iver
That sounds like a good plan @IvdZ . You might want to get 2 new spare fuses before the electrician comes. Exactly the same one you have know as they all sound different. This type of fuses are usually not in the electrician’s standard toolbox.
@RvL thanks for your valuable (!!) advise. So I should order both the silver coloured one as the copper one, right? Before installing, I will have the electrician over as well
Iver
No worries, you’re welcome. I’ve been using these excellent fuse holders for many years.
You only need to get 2 fuses, the silver/white one. As said, the copper one is not a fuse but only a connecting rod so it can’t break or blow.
To be sure; 2 fuses as in one to use, one as a spare.
just ordered
If you have things up & running again, note that these fuses (all fuses really) are directional regarding sound quality. That means, they typically sound better in one direction vs. the other way around. If there is no direction-marker on them, try both directions. It’s usually very easy to hear. Obviously, your system needs to be warmed up and running for while before testing.
Free system tweaking.
