Bi-amp , Subwoofer ,streamer

Hi everyone, Merry Christmas ! My existing system is nac 202 pre amp + napsc2+ hicap dr , nap 200 dr, tannoy stirling speaker. I got 3 questions list below

1 I want to get the nap 250 power amp , connect to the speaker HF socket, but don’t know how to connect the pre amp to 250 power amp

2 how to connect the subwoofer?

3 if use XLR to din cable ( streamer to 202 pre amp) which soceket is suitable? Aux2? Or tuner? Or another socket?

Please let me know thank you everyone

There’s a huge amount of information on here if you use the Search on these questions; the first two are commonly asked.

Passive bi-amping is not often suggested on here, and gets very mixed reviews (using two different power amps even more so). If I was buying a 250 it would just replace the 200. I suspect the benefit will be clear.

Can you tell us the make and model of your sub if you have it already? Connection options vary.

I would be trying the 250 on those speakers in my room before getting a sub.

What is your source?

Bruce

…and welcome!

Hey Bruce, thanks for reaching out. my existing source is cd 5xs + hicap dr and Cambridge audio cxn 100 streamer( the existing connection is rca to 202 rca) but want to try XLR to Din , not sure which din soceket is suitable.

Just want to use 250 to speaker HF , 200 to speaker LF , but don’t know how to connect to 202 pre amp

Subwoofer want to use fyne audio F3.8 (8 inch ported subwoofer)

The Hicap provides the pre-outs - there are three stereo pre-outs available via the DIN4 sockets

Din4 soceket for connecting bi amp or for connecting subwoofer? Merry Christmas Richard lol

For connecting the amps. You could use it for the subwoofer too but it’s not ideal as it’s easy to push into instability. Better to take a high level signal from the back of the loudspeakers.

Thanks a lot. How about the streamer XLR to 202 pre amp connection? Which soceket is suitable? Tuner? Or AUX2 or another soceket.

The Fyne Audio F3.8 does not appear to have high level connections. From a design perspective it appears to be more aimed at the home cinema market which may or not work well with your room or Tannoy Stirlings. My personal preference would be a sealed or passive radiator design with high level inputs - the latter giving you additional connection options. If you have bought the Fyne already I would suggest experimenting with it to see if it works/integrates as you wish.

You wouldn’t use the XLRs here as those are balanced outputs on the CA CXN100 so inappropriate for use with the NAC202, which has single ended inputs. You should instead use the single ended RCA Phono outputs. Any of the 180 agree DIN inputs on the 202 would be OK here. You could even use one of the RCA phono inputs, although I favour the DINs, even when the source uses RCA Phono.

It means that all of the 5 pin din soceket of 202 can be use to connecting RCA ( streamer output) only one exception is cd din soceket, does it correct? Thanks again

Hi Alex, thanks for telling me. I still never purchase the subwoofer. By the way what brand subwoofer you can recommend to me

You can use any of the input sockets apart from input 6 (alternative) - they are all at line level;

Unless you have an absolutely huge listening room, you don’t need to add a sub to a pair of Tannoy Stirling Dual Concentrics, their bass response is -6dB at 29Hz.

If you have a problem with the bass, is not the speakers, it’s the combination of speaker positioning and the bass resonances of the room due to its shape. You need to sort this first or a sub will most likely just make the bass problems even worse.

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If you are still planning amp changes (did you do a ‘search’ on bi-amping?) I really would do that first before looking at subs. A better amp (for example a 250 instead of the 200) might give you what you want in terms of bass etc. Note also the very sensible comments above too.

Changing too much together isn’t generally a recipe for success.

Bruce

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It would be a good idea if you could describe what aspects of your setup you are trying to improve/correct and something about your room.

The Tannoys are pretty sensitive and, as @Xanthe mentions go low according to their specs, so I too am a little puzzled by why you need a subwoofer and why you want to bi-amp your speakers. The natural preamp for a 250DR would be a 282 and many would advocate upgrading the preamp before the power amp. But I’ve not heard those Tannoys, so it’s all guesswork really.

Roger

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Thank you so much. May be I can contact dealer order the rca to 5 pin din cable from naim audio. Does it available?

Hi there , I think that you are an expert according to your science background, I will adjust the position for a pair speaker, thank you

I will concern that the comment above, regarding bi amp problem I should go to dealer audition room get test it ,thank you .

I searched some information regarding bi amp, looks require SNAXO 242 - Crossover or Naxo 2-4 Active Crossover( old model) for bi amp.

What you describe is for an active Naim system. Totally different to passive bi-amping.

You cannot run your Tannoys active. They would need a removable crossover and a specially designed SNAXO or equivalent. The Naim active setups were essentially designed for Naim speakers, although some other models such as a few Kudos can be configured. Active in a Naim system means having a powered external crossover

You could in theory run your Tannoys passively bi-amped with 2 Naim amps. This retains the speaker crossovers. Most wouldn’t though.

It does feel like you need your dealer here to help you identify what you want and how to get there.

Bruce

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