Probably for protective bonding on metal pipework coming Into the house.
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Before anyone gets too carried away, the use of a high-value MCB of C type or goodness forbid D type, is that under fault conditions they may not discriminate with your incoming utility fuse. If a significant fault were to occur it may blow your utility fuse at the same time or in preference to your MCB tripping. The rating (ampere figure) alone is not an indicator of satisfactory electrical discrimination. The result would be a long wait and a possible bill from your utility co. before you get the power back on to your whole house.
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Hi @0.0 I also get a buzzing issue which I am investigating. Unfortunately a DC Offset issue isn’t easy to measure, and the only answer seems to be a Balanced Power Supply. For you, you could probably fit it at the HiFi CU end.
The other easier thing to check for is over voltage. In UK, our supply should not be above 253V (230+10%), and I have found I get an average of 255Volts, so I am currently chasing this with the electricity company. If they refuse to fix it, then a Balanced Power supply can also resolve this, but will be my last resort.
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Hi you have raised an interesting question… is having a balanced transformer supply seen as an upgrade, I have seen some rather nice Airlink Balanced Transformers which are rated at 5kw and above. With such a transformer in the mains supply does it slow down the transient current supply … affecting and slowing delivery…in the system… I see that in Airlinks blurb they mention recording studios using large balanced transformers…
Hi Richieroo,
We use an Airlink BPS5120MP on a dedicated radial supply for the hifi. It deliberately drops the output from a measured 242V to 230V and was incredibly effective at stopping Naim transformer hummmm.
Here’s a link: BPS to stop those transformer hum blues
You can read all about the full story there and on the old forum.
Best regards, BF
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I was recommended ASF3000MP, I think you need the “MP” at the end to get fix the over Voltage issue. They will also add in extra windings for a small charge if you want to be more precise about the drop.
However i would say best to get the source fixed if that’s possible. I called the electricity company a couple of hours ago, and to my surprise, they said they would send someone around within 3 hours. I think the excess above the tolerance can cause damage to equipment, so they are being keen - lets see what happens.
Any effect on sound quality??? indeed does it improve things??? (aside from traffo humm) …
Rather than regurgitate what was written at the time, the answers to your questions are in the link and even more so in the old thread.
Best regards, BF
Some of the Airlink balanced supplies can be plugged into a wall socket, which is very convenient, but if in the listening room, you risk silencing the Naim boxes only to transfer the hum to the Airlink box. So the hard wired version is a safer bet if you have space for it, and you can get it installed along with the dedicated circuit.
The guys at Airlink are very helpful, so it’s worth giving them a call.
Sorry what link???
If you move your cursor to the right of the word Link: in my post, your cursor will turn into a click-on link. The rest of that line is the link.
I will create a new thread for this as it somewhat goes away from this thread subject, but just to finish off my mention of calling out the electricity suppliers, I can confirm that sp energy networks came out as promised within 3 hours of my call. A very friendly chap tested the local substation and confirmed that all three phases were dishing out 253 Volts. He then called on another colleague, and over the next 2 hours they moved the tapping on the transformer, and reduced the Voltage to around 245V without any power cuts. Superb service! I would have preferred 230V, but I’m near the beginning of the route from the substation, and they have to ensure 230V at the furthest point.
As for the buzzing, massively reduced to a bearable level 
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Hi Richie, Some of this is a bit technical for me and things in Aust be not identical to UK.
I would only use a Spur no idea why Rings mentioned. My set up is really bit of a cheater may
inspire some thought maybe not. My Power box is outside the left front cnr of my lounge room and first input is to a double wall socket right there. The plug for TV stuff goes there it is 4 unit mains board. Naturally the house wiring runs behind the wall - to back of L/Room where i have a 4 point w/socket then a 2 point w/socket the ring then goes to Kitchen. So i figured if i use the spare front socket and run cable over the floor i have created a defacto Spur (the TV mains board plug pulled out when using the Hi-Fi)
I run this Spur cable up to the lounge where equipment resides there are 4 unswitched sockets 1/2 mt apart less resistance or every thing needs to resettle ? (reason why power
boards sound worse as you get further from socket one? i still have some of this but)
Now i am in a position to plug into wall ring- or- to my Spur and compare both!
Laying cable on floor i was able to make up Spur leads of different gauges and compare
and also the cable direction i prefered, in my case a spur gauge one size below the Wall gauge was found best for Hi-Fi the Wall gauge tips the mid & hf freq down a bit a little duller
bassier sound and the Smaller gauge being more open with improved tonal quality.
I must say provided you use the correct equipment plug in order the wall and the Spur are both acceptable but i never use Wall only Spur so for a few dollars worth of wire and no
electrics it does the job.
Sorry on mobile 
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I’m in the UK and waiting for a quote for Radial circuit with new Three way Consumer unit fitted with 32A RCBO type C wired with 6mm2 cable to six in switched double sockets.
Based on the following which has been posted before. I’ll let you know the outcome when done.
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Yeah I would like to do this but can only accommodate 1 x 25mm conduit…I think this will only get 1 x 10mm twin and earth or 2 x 6mm twin and earth…
I’m planning to rebuild the electrical system of my home as well and I’m trying to understand what’s best to do.
To quickly recap, as far as I understood being completely ignorant in thie field, this is what it’s needed:
- Isolated 10mm diameter cable for power
- Isolated 10mm diameter cable for dedicated grounding
- Furutech audio grade wall outlet (even thought I wonder how a 10mm diameter cable could work with a wall outlet designed for a 2.8mm or or 5.5 Sq.mm/10AWG max)
But also:
- Avoid switching
- A dedicated grounding rig would be better than a shared ring/spur
- If 10mm diameter cables are an issue, 6mm would be fine all the same
Did I miss anything? Did I get it right? Thanks to anybody who is willing to help.
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Certainly not diameter!
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So what does the often reported 10mm refer to? Would be you be so kind to clarify me this point?
The answer might be obvious for many, but I have no knowledge about electrical systems