I used a crimping tool to squeeze the two cables together.
They would then fit with a good hard shove…
This was just a trial while discussing options with my electrician - as you can probably tell by the fact that I was putting the + and - wires into the same terminal 
We decided not to do this in the end, because bending the assembled wires into the back box put everything under a lot of stress, and the socket was really never designed for it.
Presumably even with 6mm you used a deeper box than usual to help with some space for the cables
I did use 10mm, but split it just before the sockets with a Henley block so that each one only needed one cable. Either way, you’d want to use the deepest back box you can get.
Sorry to keep asking question, but presumably the henley block was at the HiFi end, which is presumably fed from the CU with 10mm - so question is how did you fix/hide the block?
It’s under the floorboards just beneath the two wall sockets that it feeds.
Ah OK, I have solid floors so that brings different complications. Although saying that, I dont have plans to do it (ish) but was pondering the mechanics.
Presumably you might use a big box with a blanking plate
You could probably hide the Henley block inside a stud wall, although they are quite bulky once they have three lots of 10mm T&E sticking out of them.
I used 35mm back boxes, and 2 x 6mm cables into the socket is relatively easy - it’s also the maximum capacity specified by MK for the Logic Plus
Is there any merit in just having a single unswitched socket and using … a star earthed distribution strip like musicworks…
You couldn’t use multiple runs of 10mm T&E right back from the Consumer Unit (one for each socket/power supply)? From those that have trialled the various configurations in the past this gave the optimum performance negating the need for any mains blocks. The difference in cost is negligible between 6mm & 10mm.
That is exactly right in my case. Three runs of 10mm T&E from dedicated consumer unit to three double unswitched MK Logic Plus sockets. Very pleased with the results.
I would like to do that I do agree that is best…I simply cannot get that number of cables in…it is either the musicworks approach with 10mm supply cable…or 2x6mm cables used in a ring supplying 3 double sockets… I was considering the music works approach as this would be less intrusive… I won’t go into it but I live in a 17c listed building…and the system is upstairs…
Sometimes circumstances necessitate compromises. I had to use metal switched sockets in our new extension that matched the other posh ones we had chosen. It wasn’t worth the hassle from her indoors regarding spoiling “the look” of the extension to squeeze that extra drop of performance from the dedicated mains… 
I was advised the Naim that multiple runs to individual sockets can give a less coherent and integrated sound than a single mains cable and then a good block. I’ve ditched all my expensive Powerlines and MusicWorks block and have gone for a Grahams Hydra. It works well and won’t break the bank. No plugging order issues either.
Thanks hh
I never found that with my 252/300/CDS3 set up. I tried a Musicworks mains block and a borrowed hydra on a single spur as this discussion point was active 20 years ago, but eventually went back to my 4 x multiple runs for a more open and musical presentation. Sold the manis block years ago as a result. I guess with my current set up I could try both the Nova and the 250DR in the same double socket and see what that shows…
Yes, it’s all been done many times. I was simply questioning your assertion that there was a clear preference for the multiple Spurs, which I don’t recall being the case. Still, it doesn’t really matter and different people’s experience will vary.
I guess i’m merely relaying the teachings of a certain RKR who seemed to be the guru at the time and had a very specific recipe which I followed to the letter. He certainly helped me personally get the best from my hi-fi…five tings an’ all…
I won’t bore you with voltage drop tables, current carrying capacities, thermal ratings of cable depending on routing method, etc., I think the main point is that a radial circuit, or circuits, from a dedicated consumer unit supplied straight from the meter wired in 6mm minimum cable is going to give your system the best chance of optimal performance. We all are, after all, at the mercy of the Distribution Network Operators local capabilities and parameters meaning that one mans 4mm ring main may well sound better than another mans 3 x 10mm radials in another area. I also decided that utter destruction of several wall surfaces for multiple radials wasn’t worth it, cable specification wise, when compared with a relatively easy stealthy single 6mm circuit install. Less than £100 in materials, about 6 hours total time, and for me in my house with my current set up a huge overall improvement!!!
Has anyone read the article from a few years ago about some Japanese enthusiasts who’ve installed their own supplies direct from the external sub mains?? Poles, and overhead cables, the whole nine yards…
Makes our dedication seem positively amateurish…
I would love to have a dedicated circuit, but I dont have any easy routes. CU is in garage, and living room the other end of the house. Concrete floors, so options are around the front of the house digging up the front drive, and various paving slabs, or run cable outside along the wall which would be messy. Cant go up and through loft, as garage was built on top of a while back and made into a room. In fact it was be easier to get a dedicated main from out neighbours, and then pay them a lump sum every year for electricity (yes I know 18th edition wouldn’t allow it). Perhaps rig up a stationary bicycle to an alternator, and generate my own Naim electricity
