DiY floorstanders for Naim Supernait 2

Read what Troels Gravesen says about 3 way systems you will understand then

Stil in proces to finish.

It’s the vifa vivace 2012

It’s near or maybe better then > 10k speakers :slight_smile:

Later-on i can put my building pics here.

It’s in combination with my SN2 + NDX


Dear Rob

Those look quite nice and simple to look at

Which drivers are those ?

How is the crossover design ?

Look forward to more images…

This is interesting…

Best regards

Though I’ve never heard them Wilmslow Audio Prestige at £2850 or £2400 for just the drivers look excellent value. Wilmslow Audio are long established company and very respected when it comes to restoration of vintage speakers especially Tannoy if this means they are good at new and modern speaker designing I do not know but I would give their site a quick look.

Treble: Scanspeak D2905/9900.00
Midrange: Volt VM753
Bass: Volt Rv3143
Enclosure type: 3-way reflex
Frequency response: 25Hz - 25000Hz
Sensitivity (2.83v/1m): 90dB
Amp requirement: 50 - 300w
Impedance: 8 ohm
Internal volume: 70 litres per speaker
Weight: 90Kg per pair
Dimensons (HxWxD): 1050mm high x 360mm wide x 330mm deep

Cabinets come in a variety of veneers and are flat pack. Having been to Mumbai several times and travelled extensively throughout India I have no doubt you’ll find a more than capable carpenter and as there are many hundreds of diy designs available online perhaps sourcing the drivers yourself and getting a craftsman to build the cabs to a plan would be the best option financially.

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I did look a few weeks ago Bobthebuilder…

I fear the Naim SN2 will not suffice in terms of exploiting the larger bass driver fully in terms of headroom.

The sensitivity figures are high at 90dB though… But I doubt my existing rig can cater… To this super large speaker.

There is one with an 8 inch woofer too…

Am very confident about the carpentry part of it… Just going thru the process of evaluation of options for larger speakers ( than the standpoints I have currently supported by a sub )

Nice to know you have been to Mumbai before.

Hope you come again for work or for transiting to other parts of my incredible country.

Thank you.

You can find info on the internet at audiocomponents .nl

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There are at least two questions embedded in that question, one being whether 3-way is better than 2-way, and the other being whether an 8” bass driver is better than a 6”. The answers even to the separated questions are not straightforward, as it depends on the specific drivers (which can vary hugely) and on all other aspects of the speaker design.

My own conclusion is that for cheaper designs, and particularly where low bass is not a real consideration, 2-way may work well, but when you do want deep bass and the best midrange a 3-way is more lijely to be able to achieve it well.

2-way vs 3-way:

Assuming you are considering as a passive speaker, a 2-way has a simpler crossover - which is good. (If active driving this aspect is removed - the difference then becoming one of cost, a 3-way active XO instead of 2-way, and one more amp.)

Athough it does depend on the actual drivers concerned, a 2-way is likely to put the crossover frequency, always a compromise point because two drivers are producing equal output at that frequency, right in the middle of the part of the frequency spectrum most critical for clarity of things like vocals - which is bad.

Narrower range drivers (i.e. bass, mid, treble, as opposed to bass-mid plus treble, or bass/lower-mid plus upper-mid/treble, or bass/mid plus treble) can be designed to better optimise performance in the narrower range they are required to perform - which is good.

The a 3-way has the sound coming from 3 different locations, which is worse than 2 for a 2-way.

Size of bass driver:

The lower the note the more air has to be moved on each cycle for the same sound level, so the cone has to move more at lower frequencies. For any given output at any given frequency the same amount of air must be moved, so a smaller cone must move further than a larger cone. Therefore the smaller the cone the faster it has to accelerate, move and decelerate faster on each cycle (e.g 50 times a second for a 50Hz tone, etc) than a larger cone. The more the cone has to move the longer the magnet gap has to be with linear magnetic strength, or the longer the voice coil must be, and the more flexible the suspension must be.

All these factors tend to make larger cones more capable at lower frequencies - however it is more complicated tgan that because for the same construction a larger cone is heavier and so has more inertia, requiring more force to start and accelerate and change direction and stop, and so inherently ‘slower’ than a smaller cone. So overall this is about the compromise of all these factors, affecting the ‘speed’ and timing of bass as well as available depth.


Adequacy of headroom is a factor of the peak output capability of the amp, and efficiency of the speaker, and nothing to do with size of driver (an efficient speaker with a 15” bass driver may give all the peak output you need from a low power amp, but an inefficient speaker even of only a 6 inch driver may drive the amp to clipping trying to get decent peak levels.)

Of more significance is how ‘easy’ the speaker is to drive, which is more about the interactions of the driver with the enclosure, and the design of the crossover, as reflected in the impedance curve. Some speakers need a much more capable amp than others to keep the bass under control, and that cannot be assessed from number or size of drivers.

Thank you

Have you fired the speakers up ?

how do they sound to you ?

do you listen to music with broad variety or only a few specific genres ?


I agree

I should have put it the other way

But what i meant was that the SN2 at 80W might not have the steam to handle 2 nos 12 inchers + 2 nos 5 inchers + 2 tweeters + the large cabinet

as capable an amp the SN2 is really.


Thank you for being perceptive and thank you for your reply

is a 2 way standmount ( possibly ) better at imaging and separation ?

while larger speakers will be about soundstage depth and width and not too much separation and focus ?

These are things that have to be heard to be believed but i guess audition of DiY candidates is not a possibility … and a DiY resale provides very low return.

Therefore - the logic of this discussion is to get on board as many input points as i can…

I am sure i will keep this thread and these conversations in mind when i pull the trigger or simply decide to rest for longer with my already nicely playing 2.1 speakers



what were the decision factors ( apart from price ) that made you go in for this design ?

what were the previous speakers ?


And the point I made is that that amp power need is nothing to do with driver size or cabinet size, but about sensitivity and about ease of driving, with ease of driving to do with the crossover and the acoustic loading of the drivers in the enclosure, which is not directly to do with enclosure size. You can have a huge cabinet with a 15inch driver with a sensitivity of, say, 93dB/W, and you can have a small cabinet with small drivers with a sensitivity of only, say, 84dB/W. You can also have vice versa. The less efficient speaker will require 8 times the amplifier power to give the same loudness - meaning that it will push the amp into clipping and distortion, and limit output, when the same amp driving the more efficient speaker will barely be ticking over.


vermogen: 150 Watt
rendement: 92 dB/1W/1m
impedantie: 4 Ohm
frequentie bereik: 22-22.000 Hz
hoog: Scan-Speak D3004/6620 Se
mid: Vifa NE123-W-04
laag: Vifa NE 265-W-04
Afmetingen: HxBxD 105 x 31,9 x 33,4 cm

92 dB, easy to drive. Only the 4 OHM needs some current.

Except what the sensitivity tells you is simply that it does not take a lot of power to play at decent level, rather than how much of a demand it is on the amp to control well, The nominal impedance is just that, a low 4 ohm - but no idea of the minimum, nor the shape of the impedance curve

The fat Bass from this speaker + the great mid + the sparkling high

Physically the bass port is on the front, so i can place them near the wall.

Ik was listening at a DIY store in the Netherlands, (speakerland in Oss (google it :wink: ))

I have built many speakers in the last 20 years. (not every speaker here on the photo’s)


is the white floorstander with a separate bass cabinet - the kairos ?


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No it is all DIY

eve II with scan speak units

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and the Red ones are Morel driver based ?

One of this projects under consideration is a 3 way floorstander with the Morel CAT 328 + CAW 538 + CAW 938

The Eve 2 looks good too and i bet it sounds nice as well…

How does the Vifa Vivace compare to the Eve 2 ?

How has your experience been with Morel drivers ?


I looked at the IPL website but i am not keen on

ribbon tweeters
kevlar cones

dont know why… maybe some bias - but thats how it is

BTW - The Wilmslow Rondo seems to be interesting but there is hardly any feedback available…

The radiating area of the scanspeak woofer is 150 sq mm while mr present sealed speaker woofer has a 119 sq mm radiating area.

I was wondering i could start with that and maybe next year buy a pair of bass drivers and convert to a 3 way…

This approach seems to me to be the least risk…

If it all falls flat i would be left with a pair of excellent tweeters and a pair of excellent midrange which i may use for a 3 way later or pass on…

i normally take my time to pull the trigger so i have lots of questions to ask :grinning: