Ethernet Switch and Cables Mania

Very nice, easy to read, easy to understand summary of your experience.

Unless it’s, say, the heating element of a fire.
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:small_blue_diamond:Different experiences,.different knowledge.

But it’s sad that you choose to call mine,.Frenchrooster’s,Darkebear’s,.Michaelb’s etc,etc experiences for Nonsense.

In Sweden,.in our culture it is a gross insult to say so about someone’s experiences.

/Peder🤔

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Yes, CG - you appear to have decided that ethernet chain optimization is all nonsense.
Then duly confirmed your preconceived belief that changing your switches would not have any audible effect on your hifi.
The logic seems a tad circular…

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@anon77199223 or an energised peltier effect stage!
:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

Or even a feverish :hot_face: animal…
Might just pour myself a cold drink from the fridge while I mull that one over…

I can’t disagree with you. However the Cisco was not so warm on a granite shelf vs on a wood shelf when it was very hot outside in the last summer.
So you recommend more a piece of metal under the Etheregen?
I thought the metal would take more heat from the outside and so will not make the ER colder.
What’s finally the best material to isolate from the hot temperature of a room and also to transfer the hot temperature of the ER into this material?
@Xanthe will have a great pleasure to respond too, I am sure :smile:

There are many electronic devices that have what are called heatsinks made from metal and they are very effective at releasing heat to the environment.

Yes, but not the Etheregen. All the case is a heatsink and it runs hot. I wonder if I will be able to touch it this summer. Or cook an egg on it.

You could try putting a few of these on the case to assist with heat dissipation (cooling).

Interesting. I will watch that.
@bailyhill, what do you think of that?

I ordered 2 mini heat sinks from Reichelt electronic Germany.
38 mn each item. 10 euros with shipping.
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Some other possibilities, from audiophile style forum

If the box is hot compared to the room, then placing if on a better heat conducting surface may help it lose heat, probably not by conduction (Unless it has no feet, or has metal feet with significant contact area, rather by radiation from box. Assuming temperatures and air currents were the same, that is likely why it would have run cooler on the stone support than wood. A metal shelf would be a better conductor still - and painting (of anodising) it matt black would increase its absorptivity under the box and its radiation of the excess heat into the room.

What is the problem with the heat? It is presumably designed that way, assuming you haven’t modified it or using it abnormally… However, if you are you concerned about it getting too hot, more effective would be proper heatsinking of the box - and you potentially could bolt on some heatsink fins, or put it somewhere in a current of air.

Edit: I see that while I was typing that you have ordered some heatsinks!

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You and others have convinced me. I saw that heatsink on audiophile style forum, posted by a member with a link of the commercial site.
I don’t know if very hot case is a problem. But for now there is only 18 C outside and the ER is hot, maybe 50 C. So if 40 C outside, I think I will disconnect it.

Depends upon which way the current is connected. Could be hot and cold surfaces or cold and hot surfaces. For those unfamiliar, the Peltier is a device that gets hot on one side and cold on the other when excited with DC. Reversing the current changes the position of the hot and cold side. We use these in our Astronomy Cameras to reduce the Dark Current flowing from the silicon chip. Some go to -90 C which practically eliminates the Dark Current–a good thing as its noise to that system.

John Swenson, the designer of the eR, posted on the eR Forum about the heat. The unit is designed to run hot. He said it was not a problem and did not shorten the life of the unit. He gave some range of normal, can’t remember exactly but 41 C was not an issue as I recall.

That said, I would keep the unit so that air is freely flowing around it.

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7000

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Funny coronavirus pics, to break the 7000 posts.

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Hi FR!

It will be interesting to hear about your experience of Farad PS vs LPS-1.2.

How much of an upgrade would you say (estimate) the difference to be if going from “original PS” to Farad PS?

I have read people preferring the Farad over the LPS-1.2 but not the opposite.

When I returned the ER today I talked with the small “dealer” from whom I borrowed the equipment. His point of view was that the Farad PS was a better PS than LPS and that the ER would have sounded even better with the Farad PS. I’m looking forward to hear your view!

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Hi Peder!

Unfortunately I have not been able to test the EE 8Switch in my own system yet :sob:

Yes, I agree! A very interesting test :wink: :sunglasses:

/Marcus

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