For those using a Farad Super3 in the UK, what mains cable are you using and what rating of the fuse in the plug you are using?
Many thanks.
DG…
It doesn’t matter really since an electrical device, any device, won’t use more ampere than it needs. And it won’t need more power than your other equipment risking the fuse in the power cord to blow either 
So you cannot in any way cause damage to the Farad as long as it is made for the voltage you use in the UK.
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The current rating of the fuse needs to be less than the current rating of the cable.
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The cable I’m using is a Chord Shawline Power Chord Mains Cable which came fitted with a 13a fuse.
However, the power supply shows a power rating of 230Vac 80w.
So I’ve swapped the fuse out for a 3a fuse which is suitable for up to 720w.
DG…
Does the plug fuse only protect the cable, or the user too?
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In the UK, the fuse in the plug is just to protect the cable.
A person is protected by a Residual Current Device (RCD), which is 30mA, being fitted within the main Consumer Unit protecting all the sockets.
DG…
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I’m using the Farad Mains cable which is unfused.
The PSU is fitted with the Synergistic Orange Fuse.
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If the 13amp fuse is as supplied by the cable manufacturer, I’d swap it back in.
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Not sure what you are up to with the fuses. Leave the fuse in the cable as it was and only change the fuse in Farad per instructions by the manufacturer if doing anything. If the Chord cable use 13A fuse than that’s what it should have. The 5V Farad only consume max 20W.
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It is absolutely fine to replace a 13A fuse with 3A. It increases protection. It’s doing it the other way round that can be dangerous. That said, I’d leave the original fuse in place. There is no point changing it.
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The fuse in the plug that comes with the cable is supplied as a standard item, the manufacturer not knowing what appliance it will be fitted to.
From Electrical Safety First
How does a fuse work?
The fuse in a plug is a safety device designed to protect the lead rather than the appliance. It is a deliberate weak link in a circuit which will ‘blow’ if an electrical appliance or extension lead draws too much current due to either an overload or a fault. The blown fuse cuts off the electricity to stop the lead and appliance from overheating and causing a fire.
Different types of fuses
As a rule of thumb, fuses are rated according to the power rating of the appliance. If you have to replace a fuse, it’s essential, having checked and corrected the reason for the fuse blowing, to replace it only with another of the same rating. A common UK plug is generally fitted with a 3A or 13A fuse.
Plugs for appliances rated up to about 700 watts should have a 3-amp fuse (coloured red).
For example:
- 3A Fuse – Table lamp, standard lamp, television, video, computer, mixer, blender, fridge, freezer, power drill, jig saw, soldering iron.
Plugs for appliances rated between about 700 watts and 3000 watts (the maximum rating of a wall socket) should be fitted with a 13-amp fuse (coloured brown).
For example:
- 13A Fuse – Washing machine, dishwasher, microwave, kettle, toaster, iron.
Manufacturers have now standardised plug fuse ratings to be either 3A or 13A.
In the UK, the fuse in the plug is only there to protect the cable, but must be suitable for the appliance rating, in this case, 80w
A person is protected by a 30mA Residual Current Device (RCD) being fitted in the main Consumer Unit.
No change is being made to the fuse in the actual appliance.
DG…
I believe you are not fully aware of what you are doing and how this work. Leave the 13A fuse as is in the cable as designed for and the fuse that came with the Farad 3 inside the Farad3 and all will be just fine. You have no reason to mess around with this other than if looking for potential sound performance upgrades.
From the manual.
Standardly we use a 500mA slow blow 5x20 mm fuse for 230Vac and 1A slow for the 115Vac versions. For audio types we recommend using a 800mA slow blow 5x20 for 230Vac versions and a 1.6A slow for 115Vac input versions.
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Are you using a fuse with low current rating because you think it will bring a sonic benefit.
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No, using a lower rated 3A fuse in the plug for safety and to comply with the UK Wiring Regulations, BS7671.
DG…
The cable is made for 13A fuse and the Farad 3 for 500mA fuse (Farad consume maximum 20W or 350mA). What are you solving by changing the cable fuse to 3A you say?
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The cable is rated for a 3A fuse or a maximum of 13A. Which one you use is dependent on the rating of the appliance.
As previously advised, a 3A fuse is used if the appliance is 700w or below. Over 700w a 13A fuse is used. This is purely for safety reasons to protect the cable, nothing else.
DG…
But the Farad 3 can never ever consume more than 500mA (0.5A) because then the fuse inside it break. Just so you know.
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It’s not the fuse in appliance.
The fuse in the plug has no bearing on protecting the appliance, it is just to protect the cable.
To re-iterate, using a 3a fuse is nothing do with sonic benefits, it is for safety and comply with the applicable regulations.
We shall have to agree to differ as being in the electrical engineering industry and electrical compliance with the NICEIC and electrical cable compliance with BASEC. Both accredited by UKAS, I will continue to comply with the applicable regulations.
My initial question was merely out of interest of what other members were using with their Farad LPS.
DG…
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How’s it all sounding? No regrets thus far?
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