Fraim instructions

Does anyone have a pdf copy of the Fraim instructions that they can post here or email to me please?

Astonishing though it may seem, the manual is available from Naim’s shiny new website!

In addition to which, of course, you will want Richard’s instructions from the FAQ on this forum:


This thread contains some helpful tips, especially from @HungryHalibut

Thank you guys. Very helpful. One other question please; Do I need to get the glass locator kit or not? And if so do I need a kit for each level?

No. It’s a waste of space.


Personally, I think they are important. Particularly on the top level. It only takes a slight nudge on those ball bearings and the glass can slide off…the locators prevent this happening. On the lower levels it is not an issue as the legs act as a safety barrier if an accident were to happen (read: my wife constantly banging the hoover into the Fraim despite her agreeing I would clean the lounge forever going forward :roll_eyes:).

Great in principle but they don’t stay on. The adhesive loosens so they become ineffective

I got some recently from Tom Tom’s Audio who do a really helpful selection of Fraim parts and they are stuck in place very firmly. Maybe there is new adhesive being used?

The other thing I have learned with these 3M type pads is you absolutely HAVE to leave them with the first side stuck down at least 30-60 min before you attach the second side to whatever you are working on. Preferably a lot longer. Otherwise they peel off very easily.

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I moved into my new (to me) home in January this year and am finally getting around to resurrecting the main and bedroom fraims.

Previous home had wooden suspended floors and I used naim chips to sit the base spikes on. The new place has a carpet/ underlay/ screeded concrete floor on ground level and carpeted suspended timber floor upstairs.

At risk of ridicule for not using the search engine may I please request opinion on the following:

For the main system, there are burndies for various boxes and I don’t recall reading if there is a recommended distance that should be left ideally between the rear face of the fraim and the wall behind. Initially sounds like a simple matter to figure out, but not really when the weight of the boxes is factored in - best to have it set out from placing the base shelves.

With all the weight coming down into the base spikes, is the default set up to allow the spikes to dig through the carpet/ underlay and sit directly onto the screed/ concrete base. I have sets of naim chips but assume these would not contribute anything. But I could very well be wrong!

Most grateful for any wisdom shared on these two points. Thanks.


Got some from Cymbiosis. Their price was much cheaper than TomTomAudio.

Speaking of Cymbiosis, in case anyone was wracking their brains on the fraim space question, many thanks to Wayne who confirmed 4 inches is a good compromise distance within which to run burndies, etc without inducing strain at the back of the connections.


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My recommendation would be to leave as much as you can, due to:
1- cabling-up often requires reach-arounds, for which a mirror can be required
2- running power cables alongside each other is best avoided
3- the pesky burndies and other I/C’s can initially be hung in free space, but over time these can move
4- cleaning with a hoover nozzle needs as much space as possible IME.

I’ve often found suspended wood floors are also a tad higher around the edges of a room – of course, settlement etc, can cause all kinds of movement in walls and floors.

Just checked my Isoblue rack. I have about 150mm or 6 inches gap, between the wall and the rear of the rack.

More Space = Better… :neutral_face:

I can definitely confirm this is good advice based on my experience. I used to have my Fraim backed up against the wall. I recently moved it further forward at an angle and the extra space has let the cables hang free and given a lot more space to keep them separated.

I’m still trying to stop my wife trying to use the hoover on it mind you… They are a bugger to keep dust free without dismantling and dusting every now and again.

You need to cut slits in the carpet with a heavy duty Stanley knife in order to prevent the spikes (and the Fraim) coupling to and “floating” on the carpet. The screed concrete should be fine underneath for the spikes unless it’s really crumbly. However, timber will eventually allow the spikes to sink and then couple to the floor, so you might want to try cutting slits in the carpet and sliding in some Fraim Chips. This is something best done without others in the house knowing about it as some can find cutting slits in the carpet somewhat alarming, even though it will effectively be invisible…


We had a two year old visiting for a few days and the railings I bought had a fixed length per section. To get as much space between the railings and system I measured how far my Burndys reached behind the Fraim, 4” is the minimum that kept them all clear of the wall.
The system survived unscathed but did require a firm look on one occasion and a watchful eye pretty much all the time.
The child’s safety was someone else’s problem but the system’s was mine, fortunately the two didn’t conflict.

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Thank you one and all for constructive feedback which is really appreciated. I don’t want to get it wrong and have to re-build it all over again!


One important point if you are building several levels with kit installed, is (obviously!) to install the kit as you go and cable-up as best possible.


Seconded! Especially if you are fitting into a tight space. I have made this mistake and it is a real pain, especially if you forget to plug the speaker cables into your amp…I have found installing them first is the best way, you can then plug in the interconnects around them to avoid any contact.

Absolutely HappyListener! That was my main driver for asking opinions on the rack spacing - get it wrong and you can face having to take it all down and begin again! Prior to fraim, isoblue was ever so much more user friendly with their sliding shelves.