I’ve just had BT’s fttp installed 900mbps for £26. I just run a speed test and the speed to the hub is about 830, but via wi-fi to the ipad about 330. Still much better than the 37mbps i was getting via bt’s fibre1 for £50/month.
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We are waiting fir the upgrade, had a letter from BT a while back saying expect openreach to contact, still waiting.
Hopefully you’re not waiting to long.
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That’s seems pretty normal speeds for 900mbps FTTC - is there an issue?
We have 500, but find that falls off rapidly the further you get from the hub.
Great - typically BT, and I think many broadband providers quote link speed - the actual usable throughput for most users will be approx 10% less than the link speed through error correction and network overheads.. so that sounds pretty good. Also remember increasingly for home devices you will the device itself is the bottleneck, not the network connectivity. Some people I think forget that 
One of the drivers for FTTP for broadband network providers is that it is cheaper to run than FTTC and other DSL based solutions, the downside the initial build costs are higher
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No issue, i expected a drop off from the quoted speed but was a bit surprised that the wi-fi speed was over 50% down. But as i said, much better than i had before a cheaper too.
Is it an old iPad? (WiFi 4 max speed is 600 Mbps)
How close to the router did you do the test?
Do you have lots of other devices using WiFi?
Have you repeated the test at different times?
But dont confuse link / sync speed with affective throughput that you can measure you an application. There is a lot of processing that iPad has to do even before that data looks like data..
Additionally maximum theoretical wifi sync speeds for a protocol really is not helpful. It depends whatever protocols are being use on the SSID, how many SSIDs, how much error correction, the MIMO config etc etc etc.
and as I say most people forget their appliances are the bottlenecks increasingly.
The best check is to look at the stats on the wifi AP. if you see a relatively large amount of interference and or retry attempts - that is an indication that the radio space is not being use as effectively a it otherwise could with the current connected appliances and activity.
Or better still look at the composite signal quality from the wifi manager. If green you are good irrespective of the congestion within the appliance itself, such as a iPad.
For an iPad for example you should expect about 50 to 65% effective throughput through the TCP/IP network stack of the actual (not theoretical) wifi sync speed for a given environment.
Remember if you have older devices on your SSID then the network has to downgrade to support those older devices.
Therefore you can create two SSIDs (though keep number of SSIDs to an absolute minimum) one for legacy and one for current or best protocol your APs can support - that way you are not having your premium appliances downgraded.
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In addition, some (all ?) WiFi bridge configurations will reduce throughput by 50% due to half duplex operation - certainly true for Apple Airports.
ATB, J
Nearly all wifi unless you are on active multi channel will be half duplex . You can only receive or transmit - but not both at the same time for a channel.
I understand proper full duplex wifi is still an area of research. Wifi 6 sometimes get mistakenly referred to as ‘full duplex’ in marketing sales material due to its device channel management that allows simultaneous communication with multiple devices. It is however half duplex in network terms for a specific device.
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It’s a ipad pro gen 3, i should think there are about 6 devices connected currently. I just ran a check and the link speed had dropped to 450 so i re-ran it a few minutes later and it was up to 950. So i’m not worried and i’ll just check at different times over the next couple of weeks. But overall very happy😁
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So that is WiFi 6, which is great.
Out of interest, using my old iPad on my 150Mbs link, via speedtest.net I got
60Mbs when a few rooms away from the WiFi router
144Mbs when standing next to the WiFi router
I don’t think i use wi-fi 6 as my wi-fi network is via by whole home discs (dual band white ones).
Not sure if this is the right topic to ask, but as I am strugling to get a stable (wired) signal to TV/playstation/Xbox/PC’s/Streamer etcetera, the usage of an internet switch/splitter is unavoidable. At the moment i am working with a few simple TP-link gigaport switches. Yet i am sure that these are verry capable of balancing signal over their five ports, i am not so sure as to how much interference they cause in the power/signal path. Any advice on a more audiophile switch, and is this something worthwhile investing a few euro’s in?
Recently upgraded my 10+ year old dual band WiFi 5 (802.11ac with 3x3 MIMO) with 2 & access point to a new Unifi 7 device with 2.4, 5 and 6 GHz bands with 2x2 MIMO on each band.
Where I was getting 500-600 Mbits/s on an iPhone 16 Pro with WiFi 7 (802.11be), now gets 942 Mbit/s on a 1Gbit/s service (i.e. have this on wired Ethernet connections through 1Gbit/s routers), so getting the full ISP service capability on the mobile WiFi device. 
And then my iPad 9.7 Pro with WiFi 5 (802.11ac), which before was at 300-350 Mbit/s now gets 500-600 Mbit/s
My MacBook Air M4 with WiFi 6E (802.11ax) gets 800 Mbit/s
An older iPhone 12 Mini with WiFi 6 (802.11ax but only 2.4 and 5 GHz support) gets 600 Mbits/s
So the 6Ghz channel for the WiFi 6E and 7 does make a difference, but its range is quite limited.
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Assuming your switch goes back to the router, then you shouldn’t be getting issues. You could look at getting a Cisco 2960 via eBay which is a Forum favourite partly dues to its earth connection. The obvious audiofile upgrade might be an EE8, but I doubt if either of these will solve your issue. Probably need more information on your setup and th issues you see. Also check that your PC isnt using both WiFi and Ethernet.
A switch really shouldn’t be a bottleneck at all. Yours are presumably gigabit switches judging by the name, so unless you have (and need) a very fast internet connection they should pass through the data unhindered.
It’s always worth checking that you don’t have a faulty port, or perhaps more commonly a defective Ethernet cable, so changing them out for a known good cable can be a useful check. Beyond that, hard to say without knowing your full home network configuration.
I am not sure i understand what you mean by a switch that goes back to my router. I’ll try and briefly describe my current setup. The issues i see, is drops in signal (occassionaly blured tv vision, drops in internet radio signal and streaming signal (all wired connections). Recently upgraded our subcription to a 1 gigabit fibre connection instead of the 400 Mbit fibre subscription, but with no remarkable improvement on the side of stability.
My pc (laptop via docking station) automatically detects whether it should connect via wifi or via the network. As we live in a fairly recent (2008) well insulated house, Wifi is an issue. I therefore have hardwired connections to the living room, the three bedrooms and my home office up in the atick.
The fibre router is a Zyxel T56 with four ports, one goes to a switch and then through there supplies the solar pannels, the Wallbox and two bedrooms with a signal. one port supplies the living room connection (which there is splitted via another splitter to TV, Uniti Star, TV setup Box and PS4. The other two ports supply the third bedroom and my home office.
Your issue does not sound like it would be resolved by increasing an already fast 400Mbs connection.
Lets take each Fibre Router port at a time…
Fibre Router Port 1: Ethernet cable1 to Switch1 which serves Panels/2 bedrooms
Fibre Router Port 2: Ethernet cable2 to Splitter2 which serves 4 living room devices
If that’s correct, then questions are
1)Do you have any issues with the Solar Panels/2Bedrooms
2)What device do you call the Splitter2 (make/model)
3) Did they change your router when you upgraded your internet connection?