There was a reason why I suggested mouth suction and cautioned as I did re vacuum cleaner! I suspect that with a metal dome you could well need to remove the diaphragm and press out from inside, though how easy I don’t know. Some tweeters are easily disassembled, some not. If you decide you need to replace it, you’ve nothing to lose having a go.
And replacing the whole tweeter might not be necessary: a few years ago I damaged a Scanspeak tweeter (accidentally connected to wrong channel when setting up triamping), and was able to buy a replacement diaphragm/voice coil assembly and replace it myself for a lot less than the cost of a full tweeter.
I was lucky the Dyson fitted perfectly over the dome tweeter, it took seconds. But tbh I didn’t give any thought to doing any more damage as I’d resigned myself to the fact I might need new speakers.
I know this is irrelevant on this Topic, but just watching Top Of The Pops, with Ian Dury on, and up came the notes that he wrote the song Peter The Painter in honour of his teacher and life long friend Peter Blake - nice coincidence
I treated my son when he was little like a puppy. I simply gated off the room my system was in. Then when he got older and he understood do not Touch I’d let him in under close supervision. By 3 he was trained up good.
There appears to be some debate over what and whether dust cap or dome cap thus dents in the cap have effect on SG. Paul McGowan claims little dent makes no difference. Some caps are concave or flush with the cone. Others have a solid phase plug without a cap. For example, Focal tweeters are concave afaik. Any insight? Thanks.
I think it may have an effect on the polar response (directivity of various frequencies. Whether audibly different is another matter, I suspect very little if at all in a normal listening room situation, but if measured thoroughly under anechoic conditions it may be quite evident - of course depending on the size and shape of the dint. There are some inverted dome tweeters around, done for precisely the reason of achieving a desired polar response. (A dome is used in moving coil tweeters due to its relative rigidity, compared to a flat diaphragm of such lightweight material - at least I’m not aware of any flat diaphragm moving coil tweeters.)
You can try light!y touching the pushed in part with a thin piece of duct tape, and then pulling it off quickly. This has worked for me before. You have to be gentle of course, and just lightly rub the tape into the dent with a Q-tip. Cut a 6" long strip as wide as the main part of the dent, and touch it on at about the center of the strip, then pull both ends out quickly.
Is quickly any more effective than slowly? It seems counter-intuitive, more likely to pull the tape off or tear it, while if stuck very firmly (I know unlikely with masking tape) and the dome surround glue is weak (not expected) fast would pose a risk of pulling the whole thing off whereas slow gives a chance if recognising what is happening.
Please do. His lyrics are some of the finest English street poetry very much in a music hall tradition. Check out his early stuff with Kilburn and the Highroads. Different to the later Blockheads material that made him a national treasure. Blockheads were / are stellar musicians IMHO.
If the hoover hasn’t done it I suspect that nothing else will. Your ally domes look to be too strong once deformed.
The only thing I’d risk if you are thinking of replacing anyway is to get a very strong small tube suction on the centre of the dint, and try and pull it out from the centre.
I’ve had success using much the same technique with Blu Tack, although it wasn’t on aluminium domes, which I imagine could require a bit more persuasion.
Pulling the tape quickly is the very key to the process. If I wanted to pull the tape off of the tweeter dome, with as little outward pressure on the dome as possible, then I would pull it slowly. This is the opposite effect required. It’s the jerking motion that transfers most of the energy to the dome instead of the adhesive joint.
