Here we go its vinyl time

Michael Fremer always says that the SRA should be set up at 92 degree. And for now you need a microscope. It’s in every of his reviews.

Read this: Exposing the VTA myth? [English]

I have not the courage…sorry. Do you mean that this 92 degree of SRA is a myth? And that one of the most known turntable specialist as Michael Fremer is wrong?

You can go on and on, the guy that i borrowed this from, also asked me if i wanted to borrow more kit, as in a record you play through a bit of gear to your pc, then you can see the left and right channels.
For me right now i have achieved my goal and very happy with the results, time to sit back and enjoy the music, while i search for more vinyl and have a nice spirit or two.

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You really need to read it. It doesn’t make sense for me to try to summarise the article. But perhaps one tidbit is that the angle of the record cutting lathe can differ by 20(!!!) degrees.

As for this 92 degree thing, what about different thickness of records, wont that just mess it all up once you play a different grade record to what you set up the angle with?

Of course it will.

I don’t know why and have absolutely no idea, just know how Michael Fremer is always insisting on this 92 degree SRA , in quite every reviews in the Analog Planet section.

Galen Carol explains:

VTA or SRA: VTA is an abbreviation for vertical tracking angle, SRA stands for stylus rake angle. The two terms (while not exactly the same, technically speaking) are often used interchangeably to describe the relative angle of the stylus to the groove. This angle is normally adjusted by raising or lowering the back of the tonearm (although shims can be used between the headshell and cartridge).

Correct VTA/SRA is achieved when the angle of the playback stylus matches that of the cutting stylus used to make the original master lacquer. Because the angle of the record lathe cutter head (normally specified as twenty degrees, plus or minus five degrees) varies to some degree from manufacturer to manufacturer, we must adjust our VTA to achieve optimum playback results. Other variables such as record thickness, stylus shape, and variations in cartridge construction, also make VTA adjustment necessary.

There are a couple of ways to set VTA/SRA. Using a digital microscope and measurement software allows very accurate adjustment to the oft referred to “ideal” setting of 92 degrees (Michael Fremer has an excellent tutorial here on employing this method). Some listeners feel the “correct” setting for VTA/SRA can only be determined through listening tests. One should start with the tonearm parallel to the record surface, raising and lowering the tonearm in small increments until the best setting is achieved (many listeners find that they end up with the rear of the arm very slightly lower). In looking for the “sweet spot,” there are several things to listen for. Look for the point at which the soundstage comes into the best focus, providing maximum width and depth simultaneously. Additionally, surface noise is at a minimum and harmonics are well balanced. You will find (to a varying degree depending on the cartridge) a shift in tonality. Usually, a positive VTA results in an emphasized top-end, while lowering the setting toward negative will soften the high-end and increase the bass. Due to stylus shape and size, some cartridges will be more sensitive to VTA than others. Generally, the more radical the stylus cut, the more sensitive to proper adjustment of VTA. All cartridges, however, will benefit, at least to a degree, from proper VTA alignment.”

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“It needs the right record to shine.”

I find this to be the case no matter what, in fact the better the system the more revealing it is…be that good or bad.

Trash sounds like trash, but the good stuff…oh man…its surreal. Its easy to identify if you play a greatest hits record from a band that spans many years…every track sounds different, with different quality.

Do as i did and go secondhand, much, much cheaper

Well after trying a few albums this morning and really liking them, i have decided that enough playing about for now, also lowered my tracking weight and tracking force and really liking the difference its also made.
Very happy with the results, definitely riding the groove better as its much quieter

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Interesting self-contradicting arguments made in the text. I bet that most of us get it as accurate as is reasonably feasible and then accept the compromises that records are of different thickness, use different cutting head angles and may sound better to each of us at different values. Better to just enjoy the music rather than to become too obsessed.

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So how do we set it? For an individual record we can get 92 degrees, but what if we use a different thickness record next? Do you adapt for each record?

But even then, we don’t know the angle of the cutting stylus which we must match, but can differ by as much as 10 degrees according to the above. In other words, it’s always an approximation at best.

I would actually like to know where the 92 number comes from, why is that the ideal?

I posted to have responses, not because I know it’s the right set up to do.
So I am more curious on the responses. When I had an SME 20, Michael Fremer advised me that 92 degree set up for the cart alignment on the SMEV. He advised me to use a microscope!
Fortunately I have a Rega now.

You can ask directly Michael Fremer through the analog planet site if you want.

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I just found the video on YouTube. Mickey explains how to set up 92 degree SRA.

I was just surprised that you refused to read my article but quoted another one that was quite obviously contradicting itself.

The advice to be so exact seems strange to me as all the other relevant factors aren’t precisely exact.

It would seem at least Rega also disagrees with the need to be exact as they offer no form of adjustment.

It’s not really that I refused to read, more because it’s a bit hard to read, as English is not my first language and I have not required technical knowledge to understand.
This SRA 92 degree remains a mystery …No one dealer I asked was aware of that.

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Sorry for the misunderstanding.

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N-lot. Simple. Set the arm flat and walk away. You have no idea what kind of lathe your records were cut on, hence you are wasting your time trying to compensate. A total crap-shoot.

Hence - Arm flat. Tracking Force set to what works (and aligns the coils in the magnetic gap correctly - likely the recommended values). Cartridge hangover and offset angle set precisely and move on! My recommendation at least. Those are enough to send you blind and mad never mind chasing something that can not be attained…IMO and all that!

PS, I think record thickness is irrelevant.

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