Thanx for the heads up…
I haven’t undertaken anything yet, because it took a long time to ship the sub chassis last year as well…
I will try and contact him tomorrow…
Thank you very much Mark…
Got it almost right: need to get the bias hanger a tad closer to the bias arm…
Information on loading the platter is also welcome, I haven’t done that…
Have a nice evening (what’s left of it…)
Pieter
A couple of things came out wrong in my post this morning. I use a Aro bubble level and not a arm bubble level. And, I don’t like long levels on the platter ( not the plinth).
Also, meant to say that the audio technica bubble level IS accurate, it’s a good level.
Scott
Got two stabila levels today (20 and 30 cm) and the Audio Technica and the thinner fishing line…
Tomorrow is leveling day🥳
Hey Pieper,
Where are we at in the LP12 DYI Tuning?
Hi…
I’ve got the lp12 as level as can be. Leveled with a stabila spirit level ( checked all sides) and with ca. 130 grams on the spindle of the platter and an audio technica round spirit on the arm board…
Have the bias set as per Mark’s diagram with 2,47 grams. Traking firce is 2,00 grams.
Got the azimuth weight shoved against the post, without it the sound was a bit left sided…
I’m listening to
I’ve an arcam avr 850 amp and an arcam rPhono as phono preamp…
Speakers are Thiel SC2.4
If at all, bottleneck would be the phono preamp.
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The left side channel is the groove closest to the spindle / platter, slide that antiskate weight out 1-2 rungs. That will pull the cartridge toward the outer edge of main platter, or more toward right channel.
Try it.
Scott
I just dropped the record and scratched one side:sob:
Question… I’m using quite a heavy mat on my platter (don’t know the weight, but that’s easily found out…). Most people I know (not a lot of them have record players…) use filt mats… mine is some kind of rubber… together with a record, that would be a tad more than the ca 130 Grams I used on the spindle…
I’m going to have to do a bit of leveling again, ain’t I?
Is it best to leave the mat on the platter and Liebling it, seeing as I’ve got the bubble on the side board anyway…?
With just this weight on the platter, the bubble gives me this
When I turn the Bible a bit… I get this
So, this one ain’t very level:frowning:
With just the mat I get this
Which is more or less as with the weight of 134 grams… if I turn the bubble a bit I get this…
Slightly off again…
With a record on top I get the following two results…
I’m somewhat inclined to level the player with a record on to, but I can’t trust this spirit level from audio technica… that’s 35 euros well spent… I think I will return it, seeing as it’s useless…
Just ordered an ortofon spirit level… see how level that is…
And another, which comes from Amazon USA, which can be adjusted with two little screws ( not a bubble, but I liked the adjusting option… hope my eyes aren’t askew🤪)
The round bubble levels you are buying/using are always inaccurate. I use the Project Level-it. It’s accurate and light enough to use on the LP12 armboard and also on the platter when levelling the suspension. They’re around £20 and worth it.
The audio technica is a good level, I suggested that as that was my experience with another dealer, and it is accurate. This Process doesn’t need a level so accurate you have to fight the components and the turntable for 1/2 a day.
Scott
1 - Yes, after you get your bounce set, put your outer platter on with your mat and a record. Level the armboard, inner platter, etc. and then while it is on your stand, you can check the tone arm level/height.
2 - One thing to ensure springs are seated and won’t move and they are not bound up is to turn your platter upside down and place it on inner platter and take it off a few times, this loads the springs, then let’s them decompress. It will remove any binding, and if it does change, you will see it when you start step one above before leveling the sub chassis, armboard and platter.
After that, take off platter, record, mat, put on bottom plate, transfer to stereo stand. When you place you outer platter back on, nothing should have changed as you exercised the springs, and leveled everything on the stand.
There are members that state there is a concern that the set up has shifted during a car ride home, this following instructions in step 2 helps with that. I typically let my LP12 sit a day after new springs are installed and bounce is set, I go back on day 2 and readjust.
Scott
Thank you all very much for your advice/ inputs…
I would like to get it as accurate as can be and for that i need a level that is as accurate as can be… (it’s really annoying that a lot of levels,a lot… are not level in any kind of manner)
I will get it done and will report back when I have…
Are there springs it there, which are better than the originals ( I ask because Scott mentioned resting the rig for a day or two after installing new ones…)?
Buy the Project Level-it and forget the round levels, the reading will change when you rotate them (as you have found). Good advice from Scott regarding setup
No better springs, use Linn stock springs, it is just the set up process and the learning curve that you will have to go through. For now, don’t turn the springs or grommets if you haven’t already, just get it level.
Read Peter swains setting up an lp12 instruction. Volume 1,2 and 3 before you start twisting springs and tuning. It takes some work and patience.
Scott
Yes some of those small bubble levels are out by manufacture. However, turning them and finding different readings doesn’t necessarily mean they’re out of true. Small specks of dust and the surface you’re measuring makes a big difference. Even when I know my Aro bubble level is accurate, I often get different readings when turning it. The machining lines on the platter alter the readings btw. Blow, wipe and try again multiple times to find a general accurate level. As I said earlier, it takes time and attention to detail to get the whole set-up correctly done. I do wonder how many decks are done properly. When you get it all right, the Aro really does sing and you can easily hear the difference. Take your time.
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If it’s any consolation, every level I’ve ever owned has been inaccurate, even if only by a hair. I have a similar level to yours, made by Mana. I deal with the error by slowly rotating the platter and observing how far it’s off: if the size of the error is consistent for a full rotation, then I know the platter is level.
Operating a level is harder than it seems. If you place one on a level surface and raise one end, you can see how much the level can go up or down before the error is perceptible. Between that, and having to flip the level to cancel out the (ime inevitable) inaccuracy, and the general difficulty of accurately sighting the bubble in relation to the lines, getting any component absolutely level is a laborious task.