I am looking to invest in quality speaker jumper cables to replace the stock links that come with my speakers (Sonus Faber Il Cremonese)… I am using a Super Lumina speaker cable to connect my Naim amp and would like to get a jumper cable that works well with the Super Lumina speaker cable.
Today I am divided between the Furutech JumperFlex, the Atlas Mavros Transpose and the TelleriumQ Silver Diamonds…
Keen to hear if anyone knowledgeable about the speaker cable science (and hype) has any insights of first-hand experience to share.
I looked at the Super Lumina jumpers, but at GBP 1000 I just could not pull the plug :-)…
I have SL speaker leads and have found Vertere Pulse (B?) Mini jumper leads work very well. Not surprising as Vertere supply cable to Naim for SuperLumina.
Vertere do three levels of jumper leads but his particular set were the cheapest at around £125 for a full set a few years ago. Tom Tom Audio in the UK supply them, or used to.
Personally I think that with such short lengths it shouldn’t matter as long as it’s decent copper (or silver).
The only reason I went for the Nordost ones is that I got them relatively cheap and it’s more convenient than a bit of speaker wire like I had before.
Likewise using Super Lumina cables and as my speakers have four binding posts I looked at the super Lumina jumpers - wow out of sight pricing.
So tried NACA5 and that didn’t work for me at all.
Taking a cue from Nigel (as above) and bought the Vertere Pulse Mini jumper leads - brilliant well worth the money and a fraction of the super Lumina jumpers.
I really don’t understand the problems so many have with NACA5. I guess there are situations where it is difficult, e.g. under a carpet, but in many others I’d rather have a cable that stays in the shape I tell it to, than one that is flopping about.
I believe the trick really is to work with it. It can indeed be stubborn, e.g., if you must make it twist (but even this can be done). So it needs some planning, and patient bending and prodding.
I did have to redo my first attempt because I hadn’t paid enough attention and the speaker-side bananas ended up with the red one at the bottom and the black at the top instead of the other way around. Forcing it to comply with the orientation of my speaker’s ports turned out to be as annoying as the NACA’s reputation says it would be, but turning the whole length once by 180 degrees made it smooth work.
But the cool thing is that it stays that way and has the stability to let it bridge gaps without simply tumbling to the floor without the need for intricate fishing line webs.
Oh, and I would have had failed abysmally if not for the many tips and photos of other people’s ideas on the forum. Once again, an invaluable resource. (But that goes for my whole system, without the forum I’d still think my Rotels sounded pretty good, like I did in March )
Have a look at the Vertere website - I see you’re in Dubai and a quick look at the Vertere retailers shows one in Dubai - Dubai Audio at Sheikh Zayed Rd, Near Business Bay Metro Station - Al Wasl - Dubai - United Arab Emirates.
They may need to order in to your spec but worth checking out.
@NigelB, got the Vertere today, any idea if they are directional or not? Also interesting to see each pair labeled with “L” or “R”, do you have the same thing on your jumpers?
Yes, my Vertere Pulse Mini jumpers are marked L and R, although you can’t see it on the underside of the grey middle band below. There was no sign of being directional when I got these.
Mine are a combination of plugs on one end and spade connectors on the other. Yours look a bit different and appear to be used or ex demo. Mine were the cheapest Vertere Pulse jumpers (GBP 125) but yours look a bit posher with different cables used for ‘red’ and ‘white’ sides and different plugs. What is the model and how much were they?
Bit dark behind my speakers to take a photo but I can see the directional indicator and I have the L and R tags - here’s pic I found - you have the words printed Vertere cables etc with the arrow indicating direction like this:-
I believe the trick really is to work with it. It can indeed be stubborn, e.g., if you must make it twist (but even this can be done). So it needs some planning, and patient bending and prodding.
)
