Just spoke with Vertere, they said these are not directional and go in any way… the L and R are basically just cosmetic 
Same as my Pulse @AndyP, I’d never noticed before…Numpty question - which way is the correct direction? I assume the ends sharing the speaker cable connectors have the marker -》to the unshared connectors?
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I don’t have a photo, but I have three-way speakers with NAC 5A jumpers, they are each about 8 or 9cm long. Just use single cores and warm the cable insulation before you try to bend it!
TBH, when I get around to moving my speakers back post xmas layout, I will probably put the speaker manufacturers links back in. It doesn’t make any difference to the sound to me.
Beautiful! Maybe you are just the tiniest bit obsessional?
Yes, I wondered why Wicks had sold out of pipe insulation!
I needed to insulate my pipes, you understand…no other reason…ahem!
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There is no use denying that I wanted to do it right with the new system 
I did have time to think from May (when I ordered the 300) until the rest arrived in November, after I decided not to wait for a 372. And during all this time I was an avid reader of the forum and tried to learn all I could about proper cable dressing from the long-timers, also looking at lots of system pics for recommendations and tricks. Like, yes, the insulation. Bless the lockdown.
So it is true I had a plan, ran it through my mind a thousand times, and I had already been familiar with the NACA5 properties. (Nevertheless I was surprised that it worked out very much as I had imagined)
What’s possibly instructive is that it was not hard if you accept NACA5 for what it is and work with it. (Like Richard keeps saying, you can also make it run close to the skirting if you so desire. It’s just a question of patience and bending). Previously I had an Audioquest Rocket 33 in the same space, and it was not easier at all to do properly, In fact, I found it harder or more like impossible, as there was no way I could have elevated it this easily, keeping it away from power cables etc. that run along the floor. And although the Rocket is pretty flexible, it is not so flexible that 90° angles would come easy. I am convinced those would be easier to do with NACA, if one wants it this way.
I think am probably most pleased by how the vacuum robot now passes under the NACA!
(And in case you wonder, I have long given up on being able to open these doors behind the cabling. No issue as there are plenty more elsewhere)
And wrt OCD, yes, I am very bothered by the three black insulation pieces on the little pillar in the last picture not being the same length 
That’s just because I am still waiting on two eternally Covid-delayed new levels for the rack to place the CDS3. So when this is done, I’ll have a final go at remaining minor cable dressing improvements, and then I’ll also fix this eyesore.
(And yes I already fixed the one gray insulation in the middle after noticing the drama in the third photo)
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Don’t get me wrong, I approve and admire! And thank you for the further explanation.
Awfully sorry, was not sure how much and what diameters I’d need. I’d gift you my stock if you were in Berlin.
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I did understand and thanks for the encouragement. Just trying to give back to the forum a small part of what I was allowed to learn, just in case it helps anyone
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That is kind of you, but I have plenty…for insulating pipes of course. 
Well of course, what else would you use pipe insulation for
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Save yourself £1000, and just bare the cable insulation down a bit and put the bare cable through both hi & low frequency sockets. works great as no joints.
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Yes do this, if you are nifty with a blade you can even take out a short section of the insulation so the section between the terminals can pass through the first terminal and remains insulated between them. No additional joints required.
If this nifty cut is too taxing just strip the length of insulation required and slip a pre measured section of, bigger insulation or Green/Yellow earth sleeve or heat shrink in the section between the terminals passing the bare conductor through it on the way to the second terminal.
If I had a picture of this I’d post it, but its not something I normally consider photo worthy !
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This of courses exposes the copper to air and will lead to oxidation/verdigris, which will not appeal to everyone (knowing the forum’s average OCD level) and in fact there is a current thread about it.
Never seen verdigris on my cables. Perhaps in tropical climates?
I do agree with you @Suedkiez re your comment on OCD re jumper cables though
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It will oxidize and there may also be verdigris, speed depending on what’s in the air - won’t happen overnight. It’s what naturally happens if copper is exposed to air. (I am sure there are green copper roofs in the UK - verdigris. Seawater helps)
I am not saying that it will or will not have an effect, though it will surely not improve the conductivity. I am just saying that many forum members wouldn’t be happy about it
I think we broadly agree @Suedkiez I just had a vision of fury green speaker cables :0)
I used to loop bare copper cables around speaker terminals and squish em!
I stopped when my vanity kicked in.
Yes I did it as well in the past, but have advanced to a new OCD level as evidenced by my pics above!
And yes, agreed it will usually not look like the statue of liberty, but there is the “Nac A5 corrosion?” thread starting with
all the time I have used the same lengths of NAC A5. I was having a poke about the other day… as you do and looking at the wire behind the black sleeving it is very green, verdigris is clearly there, this goes at least 15cm up the cable, probably more
Done that
I would use Naim plugs if doing this, as there is then no need to remove the insulation between plugs, just cut out enough to solder them on. The right angled configuration avoids loops of cable sticking out in between plugs, so the whole thing sits neatly.