I replaced Naca 5 jumpers with TQ Black Diamond jumpers. The TQ produced a very noticeable upgrade in sound. TQ matches really well with Naim.
Hi @ChrisSU I think that is what i was trying to say, just not very well! Just strip the sections you need leaving the insulation in between.
You can certainly make an ‘F’ connector if you have the plug pins at hand, in fact, you can easily use pins from plugs other than Naim, I have a set of wires like that too, but if you don’t have any connectors at hand you can just clamp down on the bare wire.
I appreciate that with a ‘following’ of a brand like Naim, they tend to be well healed, money no object types, but you can make a perfectly satisfactory connection for very little effort and I like to try to bring a little bit of thrift to this place from time to time. :0)
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I was just thinking that the solder bucket on a typical banana plug takes the cut end of the cable, so you couldn’t just run the wires straight through like you can with the Naim plugs.
Not that it really bothers me, having just aquired another pair of speakers with just one pair of terminals 
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Solder bucket thing noted. I have been known to trim the back of the pin and cut a groove deep enough to take 4mm2 cable across the top of a Deltron plug to achieve the desired result.
I have the large solder bucket Deltrons & have uncut doubled back Chord Odyssey screwed & soldered into the 1st & then on to the 2nd Deltron - the picture shows it better than description.
Odyssey is 3.31mm/2 & can only just do this doubled back trick, so I expect its not possible with NACA5 @ 4mm/2
But it might be possible to fit 2x cut & stripped NACA5
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This is a good option apart from using proper jumpers. Personally I don’t recommend bare wires as suggested by others here. In my experience, apart from potential oxidation, the connection of bare wires to speaker terminals are not exactly a tight fit and can be loose depending on how much you turn and tighten at the terminals. Loose connections are a compromise to sound quality. With the use of proper jumpers terminated with banana or spades, the connections are mostly a tight fit.
In case it’s of interest, here’s the back of my system.
252 and SC are on the top of the racks.
None the cables touch each other, except temporarily near the plug extension socket on the floor and the right end.
The Burndy and snaic do not quite touch each other. They are lightly held close by one small ring of pipe lagging.
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Thanks. In the second pic, on the SC, the snaic is on top and crosses on the right of and then under the burndy. Don’t they touch there? Looks like it. This is the same as I did it, except that I made sure that they touch there because there are so many posts on the forum saying to run them in parallel (well what else really, the plugs are where they are), close but not touching, except touching in one point. And as the plugs are above each other on the SC side, this seems the natural place for this one point.
Is it that important really? As I understand it Burndy only carry DC?
It’s both analogue (music signal) and DC for the analogue stages in the NAC 252. The SNAIC carries DC for the digital circuits.
Who knows if it is important 
But on 252 & SC, the signal goes through the burndy.
There is conflicting info on what is best. Richard says close but no touch, others who usually know say touch in one point only, some dealers even wrap them once …
There is discussion and pics here (link): Cable dressing guide for Naim
and elsewhere if you search for “burndy snaic touch”
I suppose I can easily try no touch vs one point as it’s just a matter of moving the snaic a bit (compare JimDog’s pics above, mine is the same except his nearly touch but don’t, and mine do)
Question: What is the official reasoning for buying 1000 euro jumper cables if you cannot change the cables from the terminal to the chassis inside the speaker?
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The consensus in the greater audiophile world is to use the same brand and model of speaker cable for jumpers. At least use the same brand . The obvious idea is to keep the sonic signatures the same.
I asked Proac if they designed/tested the Tab 10 Sig with simply the silver jumper bars and the answer was yes. Single and bi-amplified.
I’ve gone back to this for simplicity and ‘as the maker intended’ sound.
G
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Thanks. They are Ebony.
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And my question was why the 10 cm cable between LF and HF terminals on the outside is said to matter, but the sonic signature difference of the 1 meter of cable on the inside apparently does not.
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The logic of using the same wire for the leads and the jumpers is so that both sets of terminals get their signal with wire that has the same characteristics and therefore the same sound. Of course, the jumpers are really short so the the scope for them to change the sound must be limited.
The wire inside the speaker doesn’t matter - it’s about keeping the connections between the amplifier and the speaker consistent.
That’s my logic anyway.