Usual HH, you’ve (you have 
) got to love him 
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Don’t worry about him Neil - just banter!
You’re very generous!
The Kore is much better than the Majik subchassis but the Majik is no slouch. What power supply are you using? That is where you will get the most bang for the buck.
been an LP12 owner for 20 years - love the music the deck brings and to me there is a real synergy between LP12 as source and NAIM electronics
most LP12 owners find the best route to improvements is Bearing, PSU, Sub Chassis, Arm and then cartridge, which I have to say is the route I have manily followed in my LP12 journey
the Majick sub on difers from the Kore by the addition of a glued arm board, so if you moved to Kore for your arm as you mention you would need a drilled arm rest on the arm board
I found the Kore a lovely sub with musical depth and detail, I used a kore with Ittock arm VII for several years and I was really pleased with the deck - when I had Kore fitted at the same time I had Lingo 4 which was a massive uplift from Valhalha
you don’t mention your Phono stage ?? I have used Valhala, stageline, NAIM Pre fix and now Urika, so yet another consideration
I would look at Kore certainly but only after PSU or together with, the Kore is a delight, I took the plunge on Keel this year, this brings even more musical detail but thats for another time…
I will post later my upgrade journey on LP12 which I hope is of interest
Neil; I think I get your question; since the tonearm is is affixed directly to the sub chassis, why choose the Kore over the Majik? I too am struggling with the why and how a Kore will be better. There was some discussion on another LP12 fb group today with the only answers being a Kore is the next step in the progression-which does not answer the how or why it is better than a Majik.
I have spoken to folks w/Lingo 4 and Majik sub and they are very happy.
I will speaker to my dealer Thursday as I am in the market to replace Cirkus as well and post what I find as I trust them.
Majik Sub has provision to bolt on a laminated armboard whereas the Kore has an integrated machined metal armboard like a junior keel if you like.
Quite different beasts entirely.
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Just go for it and enjoy it.
If you do change to an Ekos, just put a plastic plug in the hole.
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Hello and thank you all for your help, I believe I now have a handle on the differences between the majik and kore essentially it’s down to materials, the majik uses the laminate armboard and the kore it’s machined aluminium, if I understand than regardless of how well bond between the majik and tonearm is it will never be as direct as the metal kore, will put the build on hold at the dealers until I source a nice ekos and kore, I don’t want to have it built and then have to have it taken apart and rebuilt, thank you all for your help it really has been appreciated.
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Exactly what I did: I still had my Ittok when I got Keeled, so my armboard came with a hole for the rest. Which the Ekos doesn’t need, obviously.
A quick measure and found some caps on Amazon easily. Only snag is you have to buy 50 of em. But they’re dirt cheap so…and I have plenty of spares, just in case!
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Hello
Actually I have found a supply of genuine Linn plugs at Lp12 bits, Guy is very helpfull and has supplied quite a few parts, I’m on the list for a kore, especially now I understand the differences, regards Neil.
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Hello I agree and intend to follow the accepted upgrade route more or less, the bearing is a karousel the power supply will be a recapped lingo one for now,I also agree now a kore sub chassis with either the ittok lv3 or perhaps an ekos, I’ve got to see how finances go as this isn’t a gradual upgrade but a complete new build all at once, including gen new linn plinth, trampolin2 and even a new motor which nobody ever seems to mention, or do they?
Now here’s a thought, how about if Linn were to produce a metal armboard which could be bonded by the dealer to the majik sub chassis, this would be a cost effective upgrade perhaps not quite up to the factory manufactured kore but would be pretty close, how about it Linn.
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Yeah but it would put the kybosh on their marketing scheme!
The Kore is not a Majik with a bonded armboard.
Yes understood but both sub chassis 1.5 mm aluminium same construction, it’s the alloy armboard bonded onto the kore chassis that’s different so if they produced after market alloy armboard for the majik it would surely be pretty close to the kore, obviously it would have to be done at dealer with same adhesive as kore, what’s your thoughts.
Thanks. I was laboring under the misunderstanding that it was, but then again, much of my life is spent that way. Other than an integrated arm board how are they different?
As @Neil1956 said… Very similar, AFAIK - but the Kore incorporates the Armboard - which is metal, not fibre board. But - the Kore doesnt have the Arm Mounting Ring built in, like the Keel does.
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I could be wrong but I understood that the Kore was a slightly better construction but maybe not. 
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The Lingo4 package comes with a new (different) motor.
You can sell / trade-in the recapped older Lingo at a very good price these days.
That way spending close to the same money on a Lingo4 first with a Majik subchassis instead of Kore also saves you the pain of the drilled Kore
(and will sound better, IMO at least).
Karousel and Trampolin are very good ideas.
One thing you didn’t mention I believe is cabling, which may be old now. The Ittok is often internally rewired. Plus there are 3 or more flavours of Linn external tonearm cables, each producing different results.
Never a dull moment with a LP12.