The bottleneck of 4 leads going through one 13amp fuse.
As you keep mentioning the ‘no-plugs’ benefit, Naim have proved that adding the de-coupled plugs improves sound…the legal way.
As Mike-B has said, it’s not explicitly covered. Hydras are covered by CE or UKCA marked.
Relying on an electrician for a claim is a very weak case. Give him a ring to join you on your side of the kitchen table opposite the insurance loss adjuster.
Even just a fast search gives:
'When Sign-Off is Illegal or Invalid;
Third-Party Certification (Rare): While most schemes require the electrician to do the work themselves, some schemes (like NAPIT) have specific, strict “Third Party” inspection routes for work done by others, though many electricians will not do this due to liability.
When Sign-Off is Illegal or Invalid
“Signed Off” by an Unregistered Person: If the person signing is not registered with a Competent Person Scheme, the certificate is invalid, and they cannot officially notify Building Control.
Signing Someone Else’s Work: It is illegal for a registered electrician to sign off another person’s work (e.g., a DIY job or a non-registered electrician’s job) unless they have personally supervised the work from the beginning and are part of a valid third-party scheme.’
Any company or individual can buy these stickers.
It only means that the supplier says or claims it’s up to standard and will only be litigated in view of a claim.
Funnily enough my mains block placement is the same as the way I dress myself when wearing tight underwear - just on the right hand side.
Perhaps another position could improve performance ?
Maybe tuck it under out of sight to forget about it ?
I used the Wirewound 2 for a few years until sockets started jamming. I could build my own block, being a retired electrician, but with a disabled wife to look after, there isn’t the time. I did buy an Olson recently and upgraded the internal cable. There was a small but worthwhile improvement in sound.
Pointless buying plated sockets and plugs they just wear off back to base metal after a few in and outs.
Better to have matching materials from manufacturers plugs and sockets.
Just like Naim recommend for Speaker bananas etc.
Matching metals mate better.
It’s the one I suspected it might be. It’s just a cheap and nasty mass market block that’s been plated and had a thick cable put on it. Honestly I would send it back. Get an Olson or a Russ Andrews PowerBar.
Like @70sPete suggests.
I’d go Olson specify your needs tell them how may sockets.
I don’t like the Russ Andrews ones with another IEC connector in the feed.
And I’d certainly avoid the Superclamp filters.
And no neon lights.
I’ve checked the returns policy and they say within 30 days if I’m not satisfied so I can give it a listen and see. I’d be interested if anyone has tried a MCRU product. I was hoping for more from a Yorkshire firm.
I will contact Olson and see what they say. I have also heard good things about the wireworld matrix 2. Star wired with OFC. It seems to talk the talk. Any views on that?
Wouldn’t touch it.
These are my opinions on my experience.
Just because it gets a fan club and sounds great its no use if I don’t have confidence in it.
Products are made for all people there is always a customer.
Surely the fact you seen something you didn’t like tells you something.
As @Mike-B says, it’s because you specified star wiring. Forget star wiring. All you need to purchase is one of their standard 6 way unswitched blocks and specify no neon. I’ve bought 3 of them from Olson in the past - no problem. PS. They do produce an actual audiophile block (Sound Fantastic range). Don’t buy that - it has filtering in it. Just get the standard general use block. It’s really excellent - about a million times better than the MCRU one that you bought.
But specify NO NEON when ordering (they just don’t fit it and put a plastic blanking plate in place of the red indicator). Also it has a 2m cable as standard but they may be able to shorten to 1.5m if you want.
