I have bought second hand 2x3,5 m Naim NACA5 cable with deltron plugs at the amp side and coper plated spades at the speaker side. Is it needed to use the Naim speaker plugs at the amp side?
Ideally you would use the Naim SA8 Speaker connectors, however, those Deltrons are are good second choice. Only concern would be if you are connecting to a NAIT, NAIT2, NAIT3, or NAP90, as these had 4mm sockets fitted directly to the PCB and the SA8 plug helped prevent torsional stress on the sockets which could damage the socket to PCB solder joint.
Speaking of solder, it’s probably worth unscrewing the sleeve and checking how old the soldering is underneath. If less than perfect then I would cut them off and properly solder on some SA8s.
Thanx Richard. Connected to a NAP150x. Shall make a pic of the soldering later today.
This is not a job for the faint hearted…
Having done this myself, on one end of a pair of pre-loved A5 leads, I would not willingly do it again - ever. Your Naim dealer should be much better at doing this task - and this is the route I would recommend.
Its seems simple - but isn’t. The thickness of the conductors in A5 (or A4) really sucks the heat away - and everything gets far too hot. Unless you are very good at soldering - and have a high power iron.
I used a 100W iron, which I bought for this task - and I am not sure that was enough. Or maybe my iron was faulty…? I did send it back & got a refund, via eBay…
A temperature controlled iron would be the minimum I’d start with.
When I’ve seen dealers do this, they use a board with pins/perhaps holes through it which, as best I can tell, means the solder is dripped in (to use a graphic explanation) i.e. this involves minimal contact with the connectors.
There’s a picture or 2 on the Forum of the layout of the board etc,.
It seems preparation and the right set-up/tools are the key to success.
This may help in how to solder/set–up?..includes pics.
using a board with the pins held in drilled holes and something holding or strapping down the cable is usually best - that way you have both hands free.
Err… I know - and I did all of that…
And I have done plenty of soldering, albeit on small size things (various audio leads, inc DIN plugs; a bit of PBC work - and Slot Cars).
I did all the prep - but still struggled. As I said - maybe my 100W Iron was faulty - and/or maybe it was intended for Lead Free Solder (and was set to a higher temperature…?). I was using the ‘traditional’ (Leaded) Multicore Solder. Either way, it was a real PITA - and I will not repeat it.
[My end result was functional - but in no way as neat as the Cymbiosis picture… ]
As always, YMMV - you actual experience is valid - as is mine…
My 100W iron wasn’t heading the pins as I expected. I removed the tip, lightly sanded the posts on the iron and cleaned and played with the tip to get try and get a more complete connection. That worked for my iron.
Mine was the opposite. Every thing got far too hot - melting/burning the A5 insulation. Not fun.
It was a Silverline 100W -
Bit naughty maybe, but I sent it back…
Your Iron sound like a Weller ‘gun’, maybe…?
I think I may well get my A5 leads fully re-soldered, next time I visit my Naim dealer.
Yeah mine is the gun type, I use it mostly for cutting and sealing rope ends and webbing, etc.
After I soldered the NACA5 and pins I read someone’s suggestion of preheating the pins before fitting the wire in the slot, to minimise the amount of time the wire spends heated.
That all makes sense. The Weller guns are 100W - but are I guess they are a lot more controllable that a conventional Iron…?
Glad it worked for you. I will be looking at getting my A5 leads re-done, properly.
I know where to go…