IIRC, Guy Sergeant at Puresound in Tavistock can supply the right replacement foam pads.
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Same screws same everything
Therefore as I say I would just turn the one that offends to the correct orientation and not worry too much about torque settings at this stage.
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yea, ill do that when i have the foam arrive aswell.
Best not to over tighten though.
Leadpin, You want a torque driver that can accommodate 3.6Nm. I bought one online that was ex-MOD that had just been calibrated prior to sale. Cost was about ÂŁ30. You can then use it with a variety of hex bits, which cost around a tenner IIRC.
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if i do not have a torque scredriver and i opened it up, i have a tendency to not overtighten when putting back in. Making sure that in the future that i can also still loosen it and make sure the wood does not crack aswell.
Agreed and that is why I suspected they may have been over tightened previously stripping threads. Do you know if the screws are into the wood or do they have metal threads to go into?
Good question. In short I cannot recall for sure, but think theyâre bolted. The Hylomar is where the OP will need to be really careful as it has a tendency to want to stick hard and tear the veneer. Old Hylomar should then be carefully removed and new hylomar reapplied before the driver is re-orientated and re-fitted.
Yes I can see that might be quite tricky. I have made several mistakes doing things that probably should be left to professionals, itâs all to do with the âKiwi can doâ attitude.
Loudness depends of course on the room, a larger room, or room full of absorbent bodies, requiring higher power for the same sound level, and we know nothing of previous owners and their playing habits. (And as I indicated the biggest risk is usually overdriving an underpowered amp, pushing it into clipping, but of course simply.)
Otherwise content is significant: I think the piece of music I have that poses the greatest risk to drivers is not rock, but the Telarc 24-bit digital recording of Tchaikovskyâs 1812, the canons of which require me to play the music significantly quieter than I would normally, as any louder and the overload is very evident. I suspect that if I were to play from the start at my normal level for the orchestral music my speakers wouldnât survive intact.
Over the years Iâve blown two drivers: neither directly due to playing music loud, though the volume having been set high undoubtedly was contributory. In one case I was playing very loud when the MC input of my preamp developed a fault, going into oscillation - by the time I reached the volume control it had well and truly cooked the voice coil of a bass driver (burnt it out and distorted the former). The other was inadvertently switching off my DAC while all powered up (volume set high though nothing playing): the pop damaged a mid driver, causing the voice coil to scrape slightly in tge gap, causing distortion.
But as I said, it is immaterial to the OP, because if the speakers sound right they are fine, regardless of what may have happened in the past.
Having used a NAP250 (since 1985), I donât think âunderpoweredâ appliesâŚ!!
Underpowered is relative. In this context it means underpowered compared to what the user is trying to make it do (and we have no idea what amp(s) the speakers in question may have been used with.
As for the 250, what if you were to wind up the wick to full, trying to make it sound louder than where you normally max out, or same effect loudness in a much larger room full of people having a party? If it starts distorting, that is where the risk lies.
Richard,
I think this is why the OP needs to have the foam, hylomar and torque screw driver available. Once the hylomar is applied, the torque sets the hylomar and should dry at that torque setting, going back and retorquing later could be an issueâŚâŚcorrect?
Scott
Hylomar contains a solvent which evaporates, I am fairly sure. So it will âsetâ. It was designed to seal up bits of Merlins⌠
Using too much is a bad thing, also⌠
Seems logical to me Scott.
Problem is in all the way in asia aswell, donât know how much it will cost for shippingâŚ.
@Richard.Dane i saw the interior foam that you recommended, but it looks like it is entirely different from the one it came with which is a rectangular looking foam.
This is info from the old forum by previous owners who have tried to source foam for the Allaes. Iâm told that Guy has a doc to show how it needs to be cut and fitted.
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Today Iâve had to move my Allaes (new carpet tomorrow) then I remembered your thread, here are some pictures of one of my Allaes
The interior foam certainly looks like itâs in nicer condition than mine