Naim Chrome Bumper

Great looking plinth Bandit.

Loved my Akivas too - great cartridge.

I preferred 323 ‘K’ cards (in NAC32.5) to my Urika and sold it on. Naim cards were more rhythmic and involving. I tried another external phono too and felt the same way. This was all with Krystal, not Akiva.

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Thanks for the comprehensive reply, Neil.

The final piece of the jigsaw would be knowing exactly how the SNAPS is connected to the NAC. To maintain the ‘split 0V’ theme would require using two SNAIC cables between them. A ‘Y’ lead could be used (with the two 0V being common in the screen) but would compromise the split within the SNAPS, so my bet is that two cables are used. That way the two 0V lines are kept separate until they terminate at the NAC star 0V point.

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Many thanks Murmur - I feel exactly the same but mine is a Linn Uphorik.

Mr T, from my old notes I believe this is how the connection is made - a pair of SNAIC4s. But would be nice to see, to be sure.

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Fascinating to see the near mythical Dual Rail SNAPS. This is way before the HiCap…!

The HiCap is also dual rail (it has 2 +24VDC outputs), but I am not sure how its actually used. I seem to recall being told that 1 rail runs the input board and the other runs the output boards…?

Also interesting to read more on the A4 vs K20 saga - as an A4 user from very early on (since 1982).

Great thread, this… :grin:

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Richard, yes, the Naim Nerd in me is fascinated by this! Hopefully Neil can confirm a pair of SNAIC cables are used.

Not sure the SNAIC existed back then… But its likely that a pair of DIN4 cables were used.

Yes, broadly speaking the dual 24v supply is split ‘front and back’ across the input and output line stages. So for a simpler pre like the 42.5 with no phono boards fitted, there’s only the front panel LED and output relay on top of that. The 32.5 (and 72) can support more daughter boards so these are again shared in pairs front and back across the dual supply rather than being split between the two channels.

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That’s a proper vintage system! One thing I wonder though is if you ever tried a ‘geddon type motor supply instead of the ubiquitous Lingo ? I’ve recently made the move from Valhalla to a transformer based supply and am really surprised by the solidity and tunefulness it’s brought. Would be interesting to see your thoughts on it.

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Glad you’re finding an improvement over the Valhalla. Nice to get the PSU out of the plinth I think, even just for peace of mind when leaving it on all the time.

I did buy a modern one-owner Geddon second hand. Think it was made mid-2000s. Same Linn/Naim dealer installed it as everything else. Same motor etc., and I just didn’t think very much of it. I could hear the more natural sound that some people mention but musically it was just ok to my ears - suspect I’d prefer the Valhalla tbh. It made me wonder if the very early ones with H&F transformer are better or whether they really need an ARO. Either way, I wasn’t motivated to pursue things further. I actually didn’t think I’d like the Lingo, since I don’t get on with the Cirkus and most modern LP12 upgrades, but ended up really liking it.

Ref Lingos, one strange thing I’ve found is that whilst the Class A serviced L1 (with mains filter removed) is more toe-tapping / funky than my 2007 L2, and my preference with Nait or 12/BD160, the 32.5/CB160 and 42.5/110 don’t seem 100% happy with it. It’s a subtle feeling of something not being quite right. Just thought it might be useful experience to someone here.

A friend maintains the Norton is the best PSU but never heard one myself.

Wow very pretty

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Thank you daddycool

Interesting! Thanks Murmur for taking the time to reply so fully.

My own ‘geddon’ is different in that the two phase outputs are set at the level of a Lingo 1 which is a lot lower than a pukka geddon. The platter takes a couple of seconds longer to stabilise after switching on, but that’s not an issue for me. The Lingo starts the motor at a higher voltage then drops back to the lower running voltage. I’m not sure what voltage the Norton puts out. Must investigate further, but very happy with the results so far.

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This looks really nice :ok_hand:

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Many thanks Lewis :grin:

@Richard.Dane & @Mr.Tibbs

I have to warn you - if you are of a nervous disposition, look away now!
No Snaics here, just hard-wired ~4mm power cables, kept short in an effort to maintain ground reference.
The rear DIN sockets remain untouched, apart from the removal of the +24V wire on the 4 pin signal out.



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How do these get serviced? As per original Salt Lane standards or by today’s factory standards?

Do you think this was a prototype Neil, or customer /staff request?

Fascinating Neil - thank you. I take it everything here indicates this was just how it was done originally?

We pretty much still use the same parts caps wise & the pots would be replaced if noisy. So the Alps ones could be considered a bit of an upgrade of sorts.
There were very few made like this, most were used with two separate SNAPS. That’s why the DR SNAPS in one box is so rare.
It was a project by a family relation of the management.
JV didn’t approve of it though apparently!

Regards
Neil.

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