The Naim Fraim product documentation isn’t very clear on the height specfication of each shelf. Also, some dealer websites state different heights, so not sure what is the shelf height and shelf height with glass etc.
I am looking at either a Single or Twin tower configuration but need to know the total height. e.g.
Here are the dimensions of the standard and the extended leg Fraim to help you.
For best performance I would definitely favour two stacks instead of one tall stack. Note that a single stack should not exceed a base and 6 standard levels or 2 extended levels
To support what Richard wrote, you will get far better results with two stacks. Dressing that number of Burndy leads is well nigh impossible with a single stack. I’d also look at medium shelves for the left. Three mediums is equal to four standards I believe, though you may want to confirm that. The 552 benefits from space around it so may be best on the top. Incidentally, are the top shelves in the diagram for a turntable, or simply as lids? If the latter, empty Fraim shelves look a bit weird on top and you may be better off without them.
On reflection, I think it’s two mediums equalling three standards, so that would work fine with three boxes on the left and four on the right.
OK. So here goes. Are you suggesting Config B?
LH stack: For best SQ place the empty shelf to lift the NAP500 from the base level and leave it empty - it sounds cleaner and faster and easier to dress the cables.
RH Stack: place the empty fraim shelf between 500PS and the next one up to get a bigger gap from it and the other supplies which power Pre and sources.
You could also consider ‘Medium’ levels to get more space around the boxes and make the Fraim heights aesthetically the same if that is important to you.
…I’d also place ND555 at the top with plenty of space around it and nothing stacking above it. The same can be said for the 552 but one has to be given priority and I think the source benefits more - but try both and decide which sounds best as there will be a ‘best’ stacking order.
So, to summarise in Config C - this is broadly the optimum solution, but as you say, switching ND vs NAC may prove interesting.
Fraim is modular and with a range if height options - I personally do like the inclusion of Medium levels into the mix as I found they ‘sound’ better in many instances - to the extent I had to retro-fit at extra expense later once I’d borrowed from my Dealer, so worth avoiding later expense and getting it done early.
Having said that I use a tall level for one box (SNAXO) which I prefer for that little box, and find the small standard levels fine if not better for some uses.
I’d suggest the RH fraim stack use one standard level (lowest) directly above the 500PS to lower the overall height, which also impacts performance.
It is always a compromise of height - room space - aesthetics - performance.
Given what I spent on my system I decided performance was top priority for me. The empty shelf (with empty glass shelf) does help perhaps surprisingly.
Thanks. I am thinking that removing the “medium” level which has the spaces and and using a “tall” could do the trick. This looks quite clean… and best of both worlds.
That is a cleaner solution and will work well IMO.
As I said before, you can get more with additional empty shelves but they can be added later, perhaps after trying one on loan from a Dealer (like I did) and your proposed option gets you going with a neat relatively inexpensive solution.
I agree with DB. The Intermediate height levels work very well, giving some nice separation in the vertical, while arguably performing better than the extended levels.
…also consider using Fraim Chips under the floor-spikes as they make a big improvement if you have a wooden floor. They are great on carpets though.
Essentially you want the whole Fraim stack to be able to ‘sing’ or not be damped by the spikes getting embedded in the floor.
OK. Yes would be using carpet, which underneath is screed -> re-enforced concrete.
Try to make sure the floor-spikes clear through the carpet to make clean contact with the floor - even consider (if allowed) once you have marked where the spikes will permanently sit, clear a hole through the carpet with a drill-bit to allow a clean contact with the floor - the spike will hide this crime.
Hi DB, never thought of using Fraim Chips-on carpet. They are not too expensive, what sound benefit is there?
Two stacks also look better than one, if space allows, i’ d consider a 3rd one for the Nap 500 head.
Never use them on carpet unless you want a boomy bass!
The Fraim works best directly on a firm surface.
I like Fraim Chips on wooden floor - a nice mid-band clarity and better voicing I found.
I tried coins and the like and they always ‘sang’ and were worse, the Chips just worked.
…but not with a Carpet-spring under them!
I recently put Fraim Chips on the chip board floor underneath the carpet and mounted the base spikes through the carpet and on to the chips.
It takes a bit of time and nerve. Stanley knife slits the diameter of the chips through the carpet and underlay so you can slide the chips under the carpet.
Then some careful positioning of the long spikes in the centre of the chips.
But, well worth doing. The bass tightened up fairly significantly compared to before when the spikes were embedded in the chip board.
Oh dear, and here’s me stuck with two tall levels in my “brain” stack, does this mean my system is “broken”
Seriously, though, I do find that the maximum air around both the ND 555 and 552 DR which is in clear air, and a level above it’s adjacent power supply in the “brawn” stack, does do wonders for the sound.
As DB has suggested, empty base levels also helps with getting the Burndies between my present 300 DR and it’s power supply off the floor.
Not at all Dave. And I did say “arguably”. Much will depend on each individual installation. It’s all good.