Your picture with cables pushed in like that make me wince, I appreciate that you are not suggesting that cables be installed like this but that is terrible.
I would be very wary of adopting a ‘what ever fits’ in an electrical terminal goes, manufactures make recommendations for maximum terminal capacities in the case of a particular MK accessory I read that it was 3 x 4mm2 or 2 x 6mm2. Exceeding this means that you may be using the product out side of the manufacturers recommendations, not good if things do go wrong.
Also utility distribution systems tend to be AC, therefore there are no + or - wires involved.
That would certainly get round the issue of connecting multiple sockets, but Naim’s suggestion when I asked them a couple of years ago was that you should avoid multiple circuits running to the same system. I didn’t press them for a detailed explanation, although it was clear from the conversation that they had practical experience of what works, so I went with their recommendations.
As is stands, it makes a perfectly good electrical connection. The problem comes when you start stressing everything by pushing hard on it to instal the socket on the box, and it’s for that reason that I would avoid it.
100% agree not to have a system running off multiple circuits.
I added extra double sockets to a friends already installed dedicated double socket. I used a 50 amp cooker j-box with the original 10mm in & 3x short 6mm branches out to each of the sockets.
I have dedicated mains to two rooms, and for one where I needed two double sockets, I ran a single 10mm and split it with a Henley block under the floorboards just before the sockets. That kept it 10mm all the way.
If I was doing it again today, I would be tempted to stick with one single socket and add a decent mains block.
That’s what Naim advised me when I had my spur installed many years ago. I used a Hydra back then and these days I have a fancy block. It was suggested that this gives a more cohesive sound than separate spurs, and as it made things simpler I just went with it.
Having separate radials supplying each face plate is rather like having a long mains lead to each component, so I don’t understand why it should be any different, particularly as they all go back to the same consumer unit. I will plug my Music Works distribution block into one socket and run the kit off that to see if I can hear any difference.
Getting the power arrangements right, even for temporary installations, is very important. This carefully dressed system in our holiday cottage last year is a case in point, where time spent getting it right paid off.
You probably won’t hear much difference, but you never know.
The theory behind this is the possibility of a potential difference that may be present between separate but common source long radial runs.
An analogy that comes to mind is the importance Naim apply to single point ‘star’ ground in the signal path.
Go with what ever topology you think sounds best, (within the confines of your local wiring regulations of course) A point to note about typologies, Photos of the Musicworks ‘G3’ distribution box which have seen appear to show the internal wiring of earth wires ‘star wired’ with the L and N wired as a mini ring circuit. So when using a ‘G3’ from a dedicated radial you have a radial ending in a tiny ring. :0) I doubt if this matters really, although it effectively doubles the cross sectional area of the internal wiring used to each socket.
Changing scale a bit but still on the topic of toplogies, if you use a Supercap to feed an applicable Naim Pre you are feeding the one pre amp with a number of individual 24V radial supplies, not one. Naim and many users are happy that this system works very well.
Plus of course your multiple flex connections from the Block or fixed wall socket to each item of equipment are separate radials. Where does the last point of common coupling need to be?
We shouldn’t underestimate the role of the door in this fine example either in assisting with correct cable alignment. Also the careful utilisation of the work surface curved edge and “overhang” to create further tensioning optimisations.
Exemplary work indeed.
A synergy of hot beverages, ready meals, connectivity and musical delights.
One can only assume it’s fed from a 10mm T&E of course.
It was in France, so tbh I’m unsure about the conductor diameters. However I do think the proximity of the familiar coffee machine, which the Qb is used to sensing on the local power system at home, may be part of the reason for it sounding so good.
I am not getting you HH but the idea of plugging three or more components into a mains block that is fitted with a single 13 amp fuse and fussing over 4,6 and wanting 10mm2 mains wiring to feed a double wall socket makes little sense to me.
The mains voltage itself could have more fluctuation than 4,6 or 10mm2 wiring
I don’t think in some situations voltage drop or the actual mains voltage has been calculated or measured before the demand for 10mm2 is made.
I don’t understand this stuff on a technical level. I’m simply reporting what I was advised, and what works for me. How the mains block works I’ve no idea. When I was trialling it I plugged my 555PS and 300PS into the double wall socket. Then I moved them to the block. It sounded considerably better, despite more connections and an extra Powerline, which is counterintuitive. I think sometimes that people with a little technical knowledge get hung up on why things should or shouldn’t work. As a simple retired local government officer and erstwhile behavioural ecologist I can only go by what I observe.
