I remember you saying that as an evolutionary biologist, you recognised bollocks when you saw it.
It was in response to an assertion I had just made, but anyway I still think it’s one of the best jokes I have seen on the forum.
Best
David
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I was thinking of you when I wrote that last post. I knew it would make you smile. There has to be a reason why 10mm is recommended over 6mm or 4mm. Maybe the bigger wires let the current through more easily. I don’t know about voltage drop but I’ve often been told that bigger is better.
So if I fit bigger tyres to my Golf will it put in a better or worse lap time? 16,17and 18 have been tested in both wet and dry.
Size must be a Bloke thing.
If everything else is equal, suspension setup, tyre type, pressure etc and width If you do identical lap times the 18 inch will do it “easier” ie not heating up/overheating and wearing out. Same analogy to thicker cable, both work, just take less stress to do same job.
Wrong the 17 was faster in the dry and the 16 in the wet.
19s would also fit but not tried.
Nothing to do with electrical or anything but over engineering when no problems exist my not achieve a better result and can lead to a worse result.
@TinyTerror Do you have that report please ? I would love to read that. Yes the 16’s will be quicker in the wet as the sidewalls will flex, generating heat hence more grip. I find it hard to get my head around 17’s being faster than 18’s on a smooth track (as opposed to a road with bumps where a more forgiving tyre would instill more confidence and prob be quicker) I did not find that at all in the years I raced cars. Anyway this is going off topic so maybe best to leave it be.
Its on google somewhere, I did not do the tests myself it was rhetorical. I can say that I have driven Audi TTRS with 18" , 19" and (18" winter tyres in the wet) on uk roads. none of which can be measured as better or worse (legally) but felt better with the 18" in the dry and the winter tyres were just so much fun on a wet (summer time ) road.
The Audi fun has passed and I am back to Fords for now, saving the pension fund!
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I raced for many years from a 1968 Cooper S on 10" wheels (arden 8 port head running MBE roller barrel throttle bodies) to a 993 RS running 19 front 20 rear and inbetween 3 series BM, exige/elise and a mk4 Golf etc. I ran 17’s on the golf in the wet (I could not get down to 16’s due to the front brakes I was running at the time) and 18’s in the dry. I did try 19’s in the dry but they fouled the arches, so I had to stiffen the suspension up too much and so was not really a LfL comparison. I was going to do the bodywork over the winter so I could go to 19’s but sold it and changed classes. Road and track are VERY different environments. Anyway, I am sure you are right and I am wrong, we have taken this off topic for too long so lets get back to how thick your pipe needs to be 
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We are all way past the topic for the OP (sorry), for me there are no right or wrongs I just see a need to over engineering something for the sake of it.
This forum is an awesome place and many many great guys on here with tons of experience. They are saying it is a worthwhile thing to do and it brings SQ improvement from their experience. They are only trying to help, as that is what this forum is about. If you think it is over engineering and not worthwhile, that is totally your opinion and your call, but I for one value the members opinion on this matter and when I move house in a few weeks I will be putting in a dedicated spur.
I have a separate spur and was using a 5 head Hydra (a throwback to an earlier system as I only need 3 heads). After adding in the SCAPDR for my 282 (now 252) I started getting intermittent hum which appeared to emanate from the SCAPDR, XPSDR & 250DR. Replacing the Hydra alone made no difference.
After a bit of forum research I gambled on an ‘Isol-8 PowerLine Axis’ and three PL-Lites.
The result is silence and, wait for it…’inky blackness’! The soundstage has more width and depth. The whole presentation has really jumped up a notch. That ‘musicians in the room’ feel (yes, feel) has become more present. Complex passages much more sorted out…I could go on.
Very pleased with this product.
G
PS that white cable in shot has nothing to do with it. Power from the wall socket is via an Isol-8 IsoLink Wave cable to extreme right of shot.
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I have an original Arden 8 port head, put together by Phil Hepworth (Racespec). Rev range is 4,500-9,000 and a bit of sod to keep above the minimum. I use 13" wheels with 10" wide front, 8" rear Avons. Brakes are from F3 stables. Haven’t raced it for years though.
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Just a note of caution if thinking of a 16A or 20A mcb, I had real problems switching on my XPS2 until I had this upgraded to 32A by an electrician. I wouldn’t go less than 32A
Mines a 32A one from memory, no trips so far anyway and it’s been in for a while now.
I’ve had no problems with 32A either. Just the 16A
When I first brought my Musical Fidelity A300cr back from " rebuild" I found the 16a MCB tripped everytime I switched it on. A 32a type b fixed that. Mind you, those transformers do thump when energised.
I agree that the extra current-carrying capacity of thicker wire is unlikely to make much difference to a system running in what you might call steady-state conditions (like ambient drone played quietly), but the transient currents needed by a good system playing dynamic music nice and loud (as God intended) are something I’m prepared to believe an over-engineered cable could help with. If so, this would make the leading edges of sounds nicely sharp and improve the PRaT that we Naimees crave.
Mark
Did you mean Type C?
Yep, just eyeballed it 32c.