This looks great. I don’t suppose you have any photos showing how the conduits connect the insides do you? I’m tempted to make a new one this way.
Didn’t really expect to kick off another thread arguing about best ways to plug up hifi systems.
All I wanted was advice about powering a modestly-priced headphones amp without going to the exorbitantly expensive length of yet another bespoke Graham’s hydra.
As I said, the only option is a new plugboard with more outlets because the present standard board is taken up with plugs for lights, WiFi, TV etc.
Anyway, I decided that my initial choice was still way over the top and have settled for a Brennenstuhl at around €50 which I am sure will deliver the sonic goods into my Lev 5909’s.
That said, let the argybargy continue, I suppose.
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@What_Are_You_To_Me No photos of that one but after a rummage in the workshop I found some bits to do a mock up.
I put female conduit adapters between the boxes, using the two wider-spaced knockouts for stability. Cut down the sleeve to the knurled finger grip to give more space inside the box. I’ve also put 20mm rubber washers inbetween the boxes to allow for tolerance of the socket plates.
I also realised you could just use a gland without the compression bit on, again cutting down any excess.
Finally, one thing you MUST do is keep all the wires threaded through the same hole, failing to do this (like having live and neutral in different holes) in metal boxes can create Eddy currents (heating) in the metal.
That’s standard practice in all electrical installations. But to cause any heating effect, even a 1’C temp rise, requires current (amps) and a lot more than any Naim box will draw.
More relevant in power supplies for audio is to twist the individual wires. This does a number of things the audio fraternity are concerned about, it reduces EMI, helps reject common-mode noise and lowers inductance.
In the end I ordered the Olson 10 way block but asked them to remove the neon light and supply a screened 2m mains cable
Total cost was £160 delivered, I’m just waiting for them to build it for me
There used to be considerable enthusiasm for the Musicworks products with their use of ‘peek’, whatever that is, in their construction.
For the most part, more sensibly priced products seem to have overtaken that particular foible 
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ATB, J
Osiris I have absolutely no idea what ‘peek’ means either
I’ve ordered the Olson which is a UK hand made and hand wired block
This time around I wanted everything to be made in the UK, so Olson fits the bill
I don’t expect the Olson to sound any better than what I already have but it’s a solid piece of equipment that didn’t cost a fortune
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PEEK is a material. A high strength thermoplastic.
A mate of mine is evangelical about these products, he took me to their shop and surprised me with the way this stuff affects the sound. He then did the same at my place with bits of it everywhere. I have no doubt that something was happening to the sound but the cost and the clutter of peek infused bits of Perspex just put me off completely. I would encourage people to go and have a listen too it. It might put a smile on some faces. I could categorise it as “Witchcraft” 
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Thanks for the info TGR
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That’s very interesting Paul 
I take it that you were not convinced about ‘peek infused Perspex’ then?
Can I ask what mains blocks you use if any Paul?
As far as I am aware Perspex cannot be infused with Peek (Polyether ether ketone )
I did have a Musicworks block…but went a bit mad and changed to Nordost. .v.happy!
Steve.
Tells it all, but strangely/unsurprisingly says nothing about why it should be appropriate for audiophile mains blocks…….
So witchcraft 
it’ll have to be then, mind out for the black cat 
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ATB, J
I had a MusicWorks G3 and upgraded to the Peek base. It was a superb block and really improved the sound. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.
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I think the PEEK material somehow damps energy more efficiently than other materials, which is good for reducing noise. My dealer rates them quite highly but they are expensive.
Like I said, witchcraft 
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Just like with PowerLines….
ATB, J
Should we expect a Wikipedia article to list every conceivable niche application for a given polymer or else reject its validity out of hand?
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I think there is something in it but however surprising the results I was always happy with the sound without it. Make of that what you will.
I’ve only recently added a mains block to accommodate my new active speakers. It’s an MCRU DIY 6 way (With silver fuse ).
I used a PS Audio Dectet, was a nice improvement from the standard powerboard (they have seemed to have jumped up in price a bit in the last years) . And then upgraded to an Isotek Aquarius v5, that improved things nicely (at a price). Unfortunately I live in a unit and wasn’t able to put in a dedicated mains circuit and had to looko at power cleaning options.
My Olson should be delivered today