Mine was the same when I bought it so I had it serviced by Seiko and they charged £220 and all they do is put a new 6r15 mech in… it now is plus 3 a day. But it could be the oil had dried out a bit and wearing it to warm it through could help but Seiko recommends service every 5-7 yrs…
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I agree. The 41 mm Datejust just looks disproportionately big, particularly in the lighter dial versions. 36 mm is a good size for the Datejust, although I wonder why Rolex didn’t try a 38 mm version before going straight to the 41 mm one. Guess Panarei and other large size watches made Rolex compromise on their otherwise strong traditional product development due to (perceived) market demand.
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Just googled the datejust.
This model with roman numerals is a mess. The magnifying bubble over the date doesn’t help. Why.
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That one is called the Wimbledon as a nickname.
I don’t like the Cyclops much either.
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That is nice.
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39mm is plenty imho.
Agreed.
I have a number of watches including Omega, Heuer, Tag Heuer and a Tudor GMT. The latter has everything I need from a watch plus more.
If I was to get a Rolex it would be an Explorer 2 with a white dial. The newer version is a bit bulkier than the original but still a favourite between collectors. Looks great with an orange Rubber B too IMO.
I’ve not read this entire thread but am sure someone has pointed out that Rolex are only available on the used market and you’ll pay a premium.
TZ Forums is the place to buy but you’ll need 250 posts to access the “For Sale” threads.
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I have a number of other more high end watches, but this is the one I wear almost all the time. 37mm case. Keeps great time. Manual wind. No date to faff with when you don’t wear it for a few days.
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It is interesting how few people seem to consider watch size in proportion to wrist - and thickness is important as well as width. For me, anything more than about 40mm by 8mm thick would look absolutely ridiculous on my wrist (and, in my opinion, on many wrists shown in this and the other thread). For me a good watch size would be no more than about 35mm, and ideally no more than 5mm thick.
Mine too
If you read watch forums or reviews you’d see that they very much do consider wrist size. Bear in mind that watches look much larger on the wrist when photographed up close than they do from a distance. It’s all very much personal taste. Sports watches tend to be more chunky, whereas dress watches are thinner and can easily slide under a shirt cuff.
What looks right depends on both the wrist and the watch itself. I once had a DateJust and the 36mm dial was perfect. The 41mm looks puffed up and over the top to me, yet others like it. Rolex seem to be puffing up while others are slimming down. For example the Tudor Black Bay 58 is 39mm, and there is a new Pelagos 39.
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I think it’s more complex than simple measurements, it really depends on the watch as well. My El Primero 38mm looks to be larger than some 42mm watches I own.
It’s probably a combination of the case and/or lug shape, the light coloured dial, perhaps also the business of it.
The other extreme (for me) is a 42mm dive watch, thick bezel, otherwise clean, black face. If I’d show them to you (not at the same time) I’m not convinced you’d call out the second one as the biggest. I suspect you’d probably say they’d be similar in size.
I agree that thickness is relevant.
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But what we all have to acknowledge is that the personal preferences of some here are stated as an absolute, and nobody is permitted to prefer anything else. If they prefer a slim, classic design, with no compliment, that’s the end of the thread.
Well, that’s the impression I get, and as a result I skip through threads avoiding all their subsequent posts.
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As long as the watch is consistently gaining or losing the same number of seconds each day, that is nothing to worry about, the watch just needs to be regulated.
If the gain/loss is not regular, there’s a problem with the mechanism, which is much more troubling.
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@Stu299 will need to find a friendly watch maker as seiko dealers will only send it to seiko and youll get a new movement. I found a jewellers who were accredited watch repairers for omega and others, and thought they could just tweak mine but no they sent it to seiko as they were an official dealer. But hey I’ve now got an unmarked sarb035 with a new movement so what’s not to like!
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If its gaining or losing seconds in a quantity over the ISO standard, it is not right and needs fixing.
I wouldn’t be happy with a watch that loses 40 seconds regularly every 24 hours.
I have been considering a Rolex, on and off, for the last 6 months or so. I was talking about it yesterday to a friend who has a small collection of Rolex watches and about the current difficulty in obtaining a new one. I was told that for the most popular models (like a steel Daytona, for example, which incidentally is one of my favourites!) an average punter off the streets will struggle to even “get on the list” to get one at all. She (my friend) was told by an AD that to get on the list for a steel Daytona, you need to have spent £100k with the dealer already, or be famous.
It sounded far fetched to me, but I guess if that’s the case it explains why a watch that retails for £12.5k resells for about £30k!
Most Rolex watches have ‘Superlative Chronometer’ on the bezel. I don’t know what that means, but it must be that the watch meets some standard.