I agree…they are quite obviously different.
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That’s a beautifully restored and rebuilt turntable. Such a classic combination of Ittok and Troika. I used an ESC retipped Troika for a number of years and replaced it with a Krystal, which never quite delivered the same degree of involvement as it’s predecessor. It wasn’t until I replaced the Krystal with the Kandid that I felt I’d found something better than the Troika. That said, I’m sure I could still live with a Troika, particularly a Goldring rebuilt example.
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I was just about to post my opinion that the Troika is a wonderful piece of design, with its bright red body as the finishing touch. I’ve never heard one, mind.
Perhaps I should have tried to track one down before ordering a Dynavector Te Kaitora Rua to replace my XX-2!
Oh well, it doesn’t pay to look back.
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Here is the part of the project relating to the Ittok tonearm.
As I remember it, this was “bearing strip / service repair”, as you suggest.
I made a deliberate choice to leave the original internal tonearm wiring. These were fine and didn’t need any work. (Again, a desire to keep things original). The key thing was bearings were replaced. Good as new.
I think it’s amazing that an item 35+ years young can be restored in this way.
Also that skilled artisan craftsmen are out there and can provide these services.
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That’s how I feel about the Troika too.
It is a wonderful piece of industrial design. So elegant. It’s unique.
IMHO, possibly the most attractive cartridge ever made.
And the bright red body makes for a very striking visual impact.
Thanks @Clive
The part of this project which relates to the Troika rebuild was posted in “Show us what’s inside” at the time. Here it is again…
Tony at BS sourced an old Troika and arranged everything with Dave at Goldring, for a complete rebuild.
Dave at Goldring is like Johnnie at Audio Origami. Both artisans, with a wonderful skill, which has probably taken years to learn.
KR
R
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Ok, understood. Thank you. What was the cost & turn around time, for yours…?
From memory. (It was a while back), it took several weeks. But that was in the midst of the second lockdown so would suggest not to really judge by that!
It was all done through the dealer.
But, I assume that bit would be around the kind of charge suggested.
Also maybe factor in costs for shipping both ways and if you ask someone to remove your arm and then set it up again later.
Johnnie is such a nice guy. Just speak to him.
Hope all this helps
Good luck
Thanks. I will add that as a Possible LP Thing To Do, but only after I have done the Lingo - and Kore…
(the strip needed to fit the Kore seems like the best opportunity to check the Ittok)
Lingo pickup is scheduled for later today… Yay… 
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Good luck for today 
That’s got to be a little bit exciting.
Do let us all know how you get on?
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Ian, without going into too much detail here, there are numerous ways (specific objective procedures) that allow you to assess the condition of any Ittok bearing assembly. These can be done with arm in place and also removed. Maybe start there. (Not all tonearms need new bearings. But after 35+ years of much love and use, mine did).
Again, hope that helps
Best wishes
R
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Quick question. Anyone have experience of an Audio Origami PU7ti on a LP12? I’ve read some cracking reviews from users, but when asked my dealer stated he felt it too heavy for the LP12 and he thinks I’d be mad to put anything other than an Ekos SE on.
My thinking is the PU7ti is £1k less, seems a cracking arm and I can the put the saving towards a Keel and a better cart.
Ideas?
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Aaaa-nd… here’s the Lingo… 
Serviced and Mains Inlet replaced (*) by @Darran at Class A.
Not much to see but… as requested… 
The photo was edited to bring out the Plinth colour & Flutes a bit better…
(* - The original Mains Inlet had had its filter physically removed - it had seemingly been cut out. The resulting wiring was barely safe. Now fixed - properly.)
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That’s such a nice looking deck
How does it sound now?
Is that a Walkman Pro!?
Compared to the L4, the L1 casing is a much better design. I think it’s better to have all the cable connection on one side / one end only. (Unlike the L4). This is a better arrangement for organising on a rack, etc. The way the L4 is designed, you’re led to hide it out the way somewhere. Presenting the L4, on a rack in the same way, doesn’t work so well.
Maybe a small design detail. But an important one for the user
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It sounds great. Its difficult to compare - as the Lingo was ‘gone’ for some weeks, at Class A - but it certainly sounds good. Even with the ‘as received’ 30 years + old Lingo it was good - a clear step up from Valhalla.
So thats £350 for the pre-loved Lingo Mk1, plus £85 for the service/recap, plus £60 for the correct filter-less mains inlet - total £495.
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Its a Sony WM-D6C - so… yes it is…
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Ahh… I had to look up how the Lingo Mk4 is. The connections are on each end - so I agree - as you say - it looks ‘messy’.
I will stick with my Mk1… 
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