Troika - with three point fixing arrangement - was introduced by Linn in 1986 and was in production until 1994. Mine is a later example, from 1992.
A webbed extension of the body casting extends behind the body, and a third bolt holds this plate against the headshell. (Not entirely coincidentally, the Ittok headshell has a fixing hole at exactly the right place).
Troika - definition :
a Russian vehicle pulled by a team of three horses abreast.
a group of three people working together, especially in an administrative or managerial capacity.
I’ve since read the Naim Aro was originally designed around this cartridge. Which also has the same three point fixing arrangement.
Hi
I said as much in my post but the point being made is that the two front nuts on the cartridge are different one is thicker than the other.
Troika is a lovely cart I had one for many years on my Ekos.
Thanks for sharing that story.
It’s super to read about LP12’s that have given so much pleasure over their years.
One of the joys of this specific thread is the stories that accompany the LP12’s shown. (Long may that continue).
I’m currently using mine with NAC72 - HC - NAP140. It just seems right to sit with the Olive shoe boxes from the same period. The NAC72 has the internal phono stage cards fitted - NA323 - K version. So it’s matched for the Troika. Actually, it sounds pretty good. So if box count is being kept to an absolute minimum, this is all that’s needed.
However, we also have a Rega Aria at home. This is usually used with a Rega turntable. But in recent days, I’ve added this into the mix. It’s a definite step up from the internal phono stage. Yes, agreed, it works really well. I’m currently listening to David Sylvian “Dead Bees on a Cake” with the Aria in the mix now.
It was very important to me to keep my LP12 looking original. I happen to very much like the way it looks, including the Ittok tonearm. I might be persuaded one day to swap to an Ekos mkII. I could justify that one change on the basis it was in period.
I’m also very curious about the Krystal. Maybe I’ll try that one day too.
But, for now, I’m just going to enjoy lots of records.
Hi @IanRobertM
Yes, it went off to AO, late last year 2020.
Johnnie is a great guy and easy to do business with. Although, BS handled everything, I spoke to Johnnie several times and he was more than willing to explain a few things about my Ittok. As a result learned lots. He sent me some super photos of the work he did on my Ittok, which I posted on to “Show us what’s inside”.
That’s a beautifully restored and rebuilt turntable. Such a classic combination of Ittok and Troika. I used an ESC retipped Troika for a number of years and replaced it with a Krystal, which never quite delivered the same degree of involvement as it’s predecessor. It wasn’t until I replaced the Krystal with the Kandid that I felt I’d found something better than the Troika. That said, I’m sure I could still live with a Troika, particularly a Goldring rebuilt example.
I was just about to post my opinion that the Troika is a wonderful piece of design, with its bright red body as the finishing touch. I’ve never heard one, mind.
Perhaps I should have tried to track one down before ordering a Dynavector Te Kaitora Rua to replace my XX-2!
Here is the part of the project relating to the Ittok tonearm.
As I remember it, this was “bearing strip / service repair”, as you suggest.
I made a deliberate choice to leave the original internal tonearm wiring. These were fine and didn’t need any work. (Again, a desire to keep things original). The key thing was bearings were replaced. Good as new.
I think it’s amazing that an item 35+ years young can be restored in this way.
Also that skilled artisan craftsmen are out there and can provide these services.
From memory. (It was a while back), it took several weeks. But that was in the midst of the second lockdown so would suggest not to really judge by that!
It was all done through the dealer.
But, I assume that bit would be around the kind of charge suggested.
Also maybe factor in costs for shipping both ways and if you ask someone to remove your arm and then set it up again later.
Thanks. I will add that as a Possible LP Thing To Do, but only after I have done the Lingo - and Kore…
(the strip needed to fit the Kore seems like the best opportunity to check the Ittok)
Ian, without going into too much detail here, there are numerous ways (specific objective procedures) that allow you to assess the condition of any Ittok bearing assembly. These can be done with arm in place and also removed. Maybe start there. (Not all tonearms need new bearings. But after 35+ years of much love and use, mine did).
Quick question. Anyone have experience of an Audio Origami PU7ti on a LP12? I’ve read some cracking reviews from users, but when asked my dealer stated he felt it too heavy for the LP12 and he thinks I’d be mad to put anything other than an Ekos SE on.
My thinking is the PU7ti is £1k less, seems a cracking arm and I can the put the saving towards a Keel and a better cart.
The photo was edited to bring out the Plinth colour & Flutes a bit better…
(* - The original Mains Inlet had had its filter physically removed - it had seemingly been cut out. The resulting wiring was barely safe. Now fixed - properly.)
