Please don’t unless you have a DJ cartridge, the quickest way to a bent or snapped cantilever.
Rosewood cost extra…and was non-fluted…IIRC!
I checked what info I had, from back in the 80’s. I found a photocopy of some writings from I think the US importer of Linn. My dealer had hand written as follows:
Teak/Walnut £340.
Linn LVV Basik arm £46.00
So, back in late 1981, my LP12 cost me £340, plus £25 for a pre-loved Rega R200 arm - so £365 all in. By early 82, it got an Ittok fitted. In mid 83 it got an Asak - which was easily accommodated as I had a new amplifier, to replace my A&R A60 - a Naim 42/110…
The SME 3009/II improved arm, has a Stanton 681 fitted, I have two spares. But if this cartridge is not built for this kind of treatment, then I’ll take your advice and not try rotating the disc backwards. Anyway, I am not convinced by the curious brush arrangement. If I spin the disk backwards for cuing, surly this will deposit any collected dust back into the groove?
From what I’ve read about the Stantons, many people removed the brush fitting (very 1970s) and adjusted the tracking weight to compensate. One would have thought the brush must affect the cartridge suspension’s interaction with the vinyl.
The standalone cleaning arms with foam/felt pads & wheels were popular around then too and can still be seen on some decks - but I’ve never seen one on an LP12. One wonders what friction load such additional cleaning apparatus apply?
. . and some unwanted noise caused by friction from the brush travelling on vinyl just in front of the pickup? So, what would you say is the best way to gauge and set the tracking weight correctly if I remove the brush?
IIRC the brush was there on the Stanton and Pickering carts as a damping device. In my experience they are best used without the brush. Set tracking force the usual way and then adjust by ear. You could also use a test LP for tracking tests.
Probably re the brush IMV. Some subscribe to the view that a stylus should be left to clean a record (and of course itself be cleaned) – obviously a RCM is far better.
The problem with the brushes and other cleaners (and don’t forget here we’re going back to the static-filled days of the 1970s with the use of man-made materials in clothes!), is that they tend to collect dust & fluff and then release it as a lump IME.
I think you have the instructions for the Stanton? I’ve seen another post/webpage which advises what the change in tracking force should be - it may have been within the thread when you highlighted you’d inherited (IIRC) the LP12.
Thank you @Richard.Dane & @HappyListener . . sorry I have the instructions here in front of me. So will take the brush off and reset as per the SME instruction book.
I bought mine in 1978 and finishes then were Afromosia , Walnut, Rosewood and black I opted for the fluted Afromosia. I think all the plinths were fluted. I still have the warranty card and booklet.
Regards,
Martin
Hi @artist - you probably know but on the Forum, if you want to flag a post to a member (I get a number on my avatar), then use the @ symbol and start typing the member’s name, and a drop-down list should emerge. Best leave a gap after the member’s name, especially when using possessional tense e.g. @HappyListener 's.
BTW, very pleased you went to a dealer with the LP12 and life appears good with it?
Vinyl Passion Revolution. It has been super, I am not keen on the look of the power switch and you have to press a second time to get to 45rpm. Actually each time you want to turn off you have to press once to go from 33 to 45 and wait a few seconds then press again for it to turn off. I hope to swap out switch.
the only Linn I see here is… the Magik PS switch?
The only Sondek part the platter?
It looks nice tho’, interested to know what the top-plate is?
Loooooaaads of Linn parts! Karousel, inner & outer platters, springs, oil…
Oh no, hang on, I made my own springs…but loooaaaads!
you didn’t comment on the single part I mentioned- the PS.
Oh that, a spare to fill in the hole in the top plate. No idea where it came from. Does nowt, as control is via the D.C. control unit.