Best bet is to start with a LP12 specialist ala Cymbiosis.
A new/used braced plinth, new/used majik sub chassis, new karousel, used ittok and used lingo 2 or armageddon is the best bang for the buck IMO
5 Likes
Iâm with @nicnaim on this. There are many âcompleteâ LP12s on auction sites and you can sometimes get a bargain as the sum of the parts they contain is far more than what people are asking, ButâŚwhat appears a bargain sometimes can be anything but (e.g. speed control & PS inaccurate/floppy belt/springs need replacing/worn cartridge), and avoid buying from photos alone.
And then you have to ensure what you are buying is properly set up, not in need of TLC (a service - say ÂŁ200ish) and have to transport it - and many people donât seem to retain the boxes, and even if they do (as you probably know) an LP12 is boxed in kit form and built by a dealer, so shifting a built one needs a tad of knowledge on how to secure the suspension and inner-platter.
I would find a dealer who has a parts bin and who can also dem before you buy, and even compare against the likes of the higher Rega TTâs/others.
Of course, for DIY, youâll need a jig, suitable box spanner et al and the confidence on how to de-construct/construct a Linn. Itâs not rocket science, more fiddly - there a few guides on the 'web/YT.
3 Likes
I did something like this last March. I had an ancient LP12 that had been modified and had sat unused for 20 years. I decided to return it to stock as a project but on a budget and see if I still enjoyed vinyl. (I do)
The first thing was to locate a Linn expert to do the work and tapp him for advice. My local Naim dealer isnât a Linn stockist but put me in touch with a pal who services LP12s. Then I set about sourcing parts. I discovered that Linn owners have upgraditis and used recent parts are readily available. LP12bits are useful source and I got a near new Cirkus bearing, motor, Kore, T arm cable, Trampolinn 2, Majik power module and top plate for less than half the cost of new. The only thing still original is the plinth, lid and tone arm & cart.
I think that whatever you do, it can always be upgraded later. The important thing is to enjoy the process.
5 Likes
Sound advice and the same as my dealer too, who would I am sure find and source the right bits as they are an LP12 specialist.
Not my current turntable but an old one, a Logic DM101 if anyone remembers them. Sort of like a LP12 but with a suspended suspension and a solid aluminium chassis like a Keel with a solid MDF plinth. I ran this with an Armageddon for years and it took some beating, I never understood why it wasnât more popular. Like a fool I sold it to a gentleman from the Netherlands who had been looking for a good example
Chassis and sub platter etc.
10 Likes
When I bought my Ariston RD80 back in 1985 the dealer was a Logic stockist. Heard the 101 I remember as a very fluent rhythmic player.
Regards,
Lindsay
1 Like
Iâve had a couple through my hands. Potentially a very good deck indeed, but with certain niggling issues, so neither stayed long. The early units in the advertising always looked great with the big Fidelity Research tonearm fitted. The painted MDF plinth could get rather tatty as could the subchassis around the arm mount, once a few arms had been mounted (and unmounted). IIRC, Logic revised the suspension a few times, quite radical with the big central spring, which came and went, and I was never totally happy with the suspension setup on either deck. However, the biggest problem came with the later units and an onboard electronic power supply that wasnât very reliable. IIRC it was quality issues that finally sunk them. I think I still have a Logic tonearm in a box somewhere that has shot bearings and has turned all different shades of purple from anodising issues.
Manticore salvaged what they could from Logic and turned the Datum arm into what it should have been from the start with the Musician and Magician - both very good indeed, and still just about under the radar.
3 Likes
Mine was an 82 model, it had the central spring under the bearing and the basic resistor and a capacitor power supply. The only issue I had were the 6 suspension springs gave up after about 5 years but at least the top adjustment made that an easy tweak. I picked up springs the dealer then from Manticore who was very helpful (he also sold me a âmintâ Ittok which I never received!). Those pics were taken in about 2002/3 when I sold it, it was still in great condition. I agree the Datum wasnât up to much, I cave it 6 months from new and gave up on it. The Armageddon was a great addition to it, Iâm still not 100% sure how that worked but the improvement was big
With all the aftermarket/3rd party parts available, I wonder if itâs possible to build an LP12 without any Linn part whatsoever? Might be a fun, if expensive, project some day.
@Musicianandteacher âTips for a beginnerââŚ
If you wish to âenjoy the rideâ suggest doing lots of reading. Starting with several threads on this forum, which are a mine of information for anyone just starting.
If you have any specific questions, forum members are always very accommodating. (We are all in this together). The accumulated knowledge is impressive, even if the myriad options suggested sometimes seem bewildering. Also, a fun aspect.
Like @Fifty-Fifty I have also been on a similar journey recently. Taking my vintage (1986) LP12 which was an original (unmodified) deck and deciding to upgrade to modern specification. This sort of 1980âs specâ deck - like mine was - regularly sell for GBP ÂŁ 600-700-800. Offering a great start point.
[ Updating - mine - with Kore sub-chassis / Karousel bearing & inner platter / Lingo-4 PSU / T-Kable tone arm cable. Plus adding a Goldring rebuilt Linn Troika cartridge. Also, took the opportunity to give my Linn Ittok LVII tonearm some overdue TLC with a service : strip down, full service, bearing replacement, then rebuild, etc. So, my LP12 should be good for another 30+ years use now. Albeit, sounding much improved ]
My own advice would be to get one from about 1985 onwards ( s/n 53,000 onwards ) when the corner bracing was introduced into the wooden plinth. Personally, Iâm a sucker for the fluted plinth, which you canât get now. Also, others may say the Cirkus bearing is a must from about 1993, ( s/n 90,582 onwards ). However, most LP12 specialists can supply you with the Cirkus bearing kit, as an upgrade. So, thatâs no big deal. Reading a little about the production history will help on these and other features you may wish to include, if you decide to pick up an older example of the LP12.
So, there are others that can help and share their thoughts, (as a resource).
Last, like others, I agree a good LP12 specialist is worthwhile. So, recommend you search out and develop a great relationship locally. There are lots of great LP12 specialists / stockists around. Most of them quietly get on with doing a fabâ job. Local is the best approach.
Good luck, take your time and enjoy the journey âŚ
3 Likes
Canât disagree with any of that. Local is a good idea as transporting a Linn can be a consideration.
Letâs get back to the âshow usâ concept⌠
âŚ
Here Is one of my vintage gear, a Yamaha YP800 almost fully restored and working fine. The original mat (that I have by the way) did not stand the test of time and cannot be used, that explain the Funkfirm used.
40 Likes
That looks lovely. Such a clean, crisp design.
As a resource alone, Cymbiosis website is as comprehensive as you can get, Peter Swain has updated his guides and just added a very thorough one on transporting the LP12 by car.
He stocks more used parts than shown on the website.
Part of research might be looking at the LP12 users group on Facebook, they regularly post examples of some of the crazy things people do and prices they charge.
Hope Iâm allowed to post this under show us your turntable, this is something I built quite a few years ago now, so the plinth is std Regards dims so a Rega lid fits, bearing / motor /psu are basic rega items, but they are mounted on a Linn steel pre Cirkus sub chassis, Linn type arm board, and softer springs of a thorns as the delrin platter is much lighter than a linn platter. Sorbathane mat added a bit more weight. Anyway I had a lot of fun doing this!
32 Likes
I deserve enormous respect for vertere mg. Did you compare it with rp10?