Sn3 + kef kc62

Does anyone have direct experience of the best way to connect this sub to a SN3?

Try entering Kef KC62 in the search facility.

Very helpful. Thanks.

The easiest and most common way is to connect to the low-level sub output of the SN3 with 2 x RCA - 2 x RCA, taking it to the line input on the kc62.

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I use mine connected exactly as @conlegno suggests.

That’s the easy part, now you have the fun of the room setting, crossover, gain (volume) and phase to get just right.

Oh, plus the actual positioning of the sub.

What speakers are you matching it with? I can send on some of my experiences if you like of those settings and what I have for the most part settled on.

I ask as you have 3 pairs of speakers in your profile so didn’t want to presume you are using the Ls50 metas.

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Thanks both.

I’ve just seen that my profile is out of date, speaker wise. In my two channel set up I am using Tannoy Legacy Eatons (I’ve seen some comments about these not needing or benefitting from a sub).

My sub is currently connected directly to my AV amp, and only comes into play when I’m listening and or watching in surround sound. My LS50s are the rears in this set up.

I recall from a previous configuration - when I had the KC62 wired into my ProAc D2R (now sold on) - how much tweaking it took to get the settings on the sub to where it didn’t either sound overblown or of negligible effect.

So yes, any pertinent advice is most welcome.

Regarding the actual connection between sub and SN3: where exactly do the RCAs go into the KEF sub? Presume it’s the input, one is marked “smart connection” or similar.

Yes please. Thanks.

Hi Charles,

I’ll add some pictures below, but I have two KC-62’s accompanying my LS50 Metas. Each one is set / positioned identically (as far as possible).

I have the drivers facing forward/back, as opposed to the often pictured side to side. Room setting set to wall, phase set to default 0, crossover is one click about 60Hz (pictures can be misleading depending on the angle as to what the actual setting is) and volume is two clicks (if you move the knobs gently there is an indent for each incremental position, so it is possible to feel for each click).

As I have two in tandem each one comes off the SN3 sub output with left and right respectively, however to support the dual subs in single channel mode both are terminated at the end of the sub into the left hand input (it is covered in the manual so not my own recommendation).

I started with one, then added another a few months later, when I had the single one I had it set to room and firing left and right as opposed to front and back, as per most the pictures on Kef site. Tried it both on the outside of both speakers and found better integration to the outside of the left one, which I wouldn’t have anticipated given the right hand speaker is pretty much mid way up the length of the room and not near any corner.

The other day I tried the right hand sub in left/right sideways arrangement and the left front to back, listened for a while and then went back to both being front/back firing, had tighter bass this way, I had changed the DSP settings accordingly on the right to room and then back to wall.

On the DSP settings I wouldn’t say they are hard and fast so don’t be concerned about having them set not according to the manual, I know I have ended up there but having run through so many permutations its not set in stone.

Lastly alignment of the drivers relative to main speakers plays its part in my room and the drivers of the subs are pretty much aligned to the LS50 Metas driver with respect to distance from listening position.

Lastly they really show up the differences of the balance of recordings, so I would stick to a smaller set of music when tuning them as you can get a recording that then throws you and as it turns out it is the recording that has the issue. It can be infuriating, or at least it was to me.

However, having gone through all that they sound stunning and I’m constantly amazed at how good the Meta’s can sound. Oh, one last point, I did end up putting the donut bungs (the half ones) into the Meta’s fairly recently and with the dual KC-62’s this brought that last little bit of integration in my room. When I had the single sub the ports were open.

Best of luck (not because it can’t be brilliant, just the journey leads to so many “what if???s”.

Any questions just ask.

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Many thanks Adam, that’s most helpful, and it’s illuminating to read your thoughts on optimising the KC62’s performance.

As said above, it took a fair while for me to get decent integration between the KEF sub and my previous ProAcs, so I’m anticipating similar trial and error if I try it in combination with my Tannoys.

I’ll report back and or ask questions, when the need arises.

No worries, best of luck and as always the room will decide …

Hi @Adam1
I was just reading your thoughtful post.
And then studying your photos and set up…

Please can I ask - what do you have under your Naim pieces - looks like maybe an isolation support, (of some kind) ?

Perhaps Pilkington 10mm toughened glass (smoked)?
Anyway, just curious.

Thank you in advance
(And apologies to OP for off topic question).


p.s. Adam, hope your weekend BBQ worked out?

Hey, yes BBQ all went well thanks, I was just in and out to tend to the food whilst avoiding the elements and warming myself with a variety of refreshing beverage, all with an assortment of music pumping out.

Yes I got the isolation pieces made up bespoke, in the main there is so much praise for Fraim supports on here I thought I’d do a piece of artistic license and get some 10mm toughened glass made up and then they sit on some isolation feet.

I really like the end look and fortunately it did result in an improvement in the sound quality, the company I used for the glass are really professional and the turnaround was decent. Its just worth remembering that the glass itself doesn’t really vary much in price dependent on the size. So the half sized ones under the Aria and the HCDR weren’t half the price of the full width under the SN3 and the CDX2.2.

I can always provide the company name if you are interested, they were a random find but had good reviews and can fully support their quality service and product, just hope they don’t start realising the measurements for hi-fi and crank the prices ,

Looks a lot better in the flesh than in the photos, the kit looks like it is floating on the glass.

To the original poster, don’t ever listen to vinyl with the dust cover up and the KC-62’s in full flight. Most of the time if listening casually I do this, but Friday night was home alone so cranked the volume and was noticing a sort of low level fluttering sound coming at high volumes.

Realised my error in the middle of the night when thinking about this when I should have been asleep and this was confirmed Saturday morning when FGTH went back on the RP6 and same volume but no lid, transformative sound.

The lid just becomes the perfect receptor for low level bass and scoops it up before then putting it back through the turntable arm etc, resulting in the fluttering effect. I will be less lazy in the future and remove the lid when any level of listening is going on. It’s not I didn’t know this but this was a really extreme example of how it plays out and certainly made me realise how big a difference it can make.

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Dear @Adam1
Thanks for all that …
Including the BBQ idea to mix “ refreshing beverage, all with an assortment of music pumping out”. That’s always a winning combo‘ :+1:

Completely understand your comment about cost and size of material. It’s already been explained to me, majority of cost is in the labour - for cutting and finishing - from a stock material.

I’m already at the point of three separate quotes from local glass merchants. Having sent them a technical drawing of my requirements. Using 10mm Pilkington toughened, with bevelled edges and polished, the shoe box size is looking like £35 each.

Did you do bevelled, (same similar to Fraim pieces)?

Edit : added images to illustrate option - bevelled edge and polish - to finish the glass

I know what you mean about “liking the end look”. Actually, it was the same look that caught my eye too. The black material, same size as the audio piece, looks discrete and cool too. Maybe because it’s a similar tone to the equipment above?

Exactly :+1:

What colour glass did you go for?
Also, can you share what you use under the glass - for example the Naim Fraim ball bearing and ball cup holder?
And how many - three - four ?
(Any close up photos would be richly appreciated)

Finally, great feedback…

Provides others (like me) with the confidence to carry on with a similar plan. Although, I’m in no hurry. Watch out for how I get on, in time.

Thanks again


p.s. Apologies again to OP for topic drift

p.p.s. Adam, I have the RP6 and have it set up exactly the same way as you. It’s just a brilliant record player.

Hi R,

I got two different isolation sets (of 4), purely because of availability and wanted to keep the price down so it was noting too exotic price wise. I’ll get some close ups and fire them over along with some details.

I’ve also considered getting something for the subs, although this wouldn’t be glass, they are a very dense weight.


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Hi R,

You’ve gone more hardcore than me, couldn’t be bothered with the whole ballbearing approach, kept it a bit simple.

That sounds like a good price for the glass, I can’t find my order (company has changed website and backend system and deleted all customer data from old system…,

I got some cheap support feet on Amazon (hacbop) and some dearer German ones from somewhere I can find, needless to say I can’t hear if the dearer German feet are sounding better than the cheaper where ever ones.

Close up pictures below, once posted I’ll wish I dusted again I’m sure.

Normal viewing angle can’t see any of the feet.

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Thank you so much

I really like what you’ve done.
In particular, I like the glass colour.
(Wonder if that is “smoked” or something else).

The technical details are interesting
But so is the fact aesthetic

Thanks again, for sharing


Pretty sure I went smoked black, unfortunately the company for the glass didn’t do email confirmations and now has deleted their customer history in the website move, which given my earlier recommendations, well. Anyway their product was good, think the shipping was also a hefty part of the cost, which is reasonable given the product type.

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Probably use local and collect :+1:
Have a great glass merchant locally, which I’ve used for other things.

Pilkington 10mm toughened is a pretty standard stock material. Not sure about any variety with colour options though. (Might be worth some research). Clear and smoked are common options.

Again, your choice looks cool :sunglasses:

Edit : yes, looks like toughened glass can be bought in a range of colours. This decorative or “painted” toughened glass is mostly used for kitchen splash backs and in bathrooms.

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Been away for a few days, so only just trying out the sub with my Tannoy Eatons.

These are my settings. I had everything set at this in previous configuration bar the EQ, which I’ve switched to wall from room. (Though the pic shows it set to “room”).

Now, the er, fun begins getting it to gel with the Tannoys. Here goes. . .

Good luck, they also take some running in.

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