I’m no longer a turntable/vinyl owner (and was never fortunate enough to possess an LP12), but how refreshing it is to hear the ‘keep it original’ opinion expressed, rather than the usual ‘jump onto the upgrade train’!
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Richard - any idea what the speed control set-up is, as it appears to have a rocker switch - and this pre-dates my knowledge of LP12s (Valhalla?). I thought the standard model was only 33rpm with an adjuster for the motor pulley.
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When I bought my LP12 the speed adjuster was an optional extra.
Only mention this in case the OP thinks there is something missing.
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It was 33rpm but you could play at 45 via an adaptor. A bit fiddly…
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A lovely vintage LP12! A beauty.
Q for LP12 veterans: I’ve not seen the stylus brush attachment before (never had a Stanton)…is it offset to sweep the grooves before the stylus got there, or did it sweep after the groove had been played? Looks quite a thick brush so I guess it could do both even if not offset. Was it effective?
Thank you Richard, those are precisely my thoughts too. The deck was purchased in August 1973 and installed by the dealer along with amp and speakers (a lovely pair of CA-R50 transmission lines, which I will recap at some point in the near future with spares from Falcon. But that’s another story . . . . ) All the equipment in this hifi-system was serviced now and then to keep it working. There is no sign of repair work to any of the equipment and the deck came with an unused 45rpm adapter and a replacement stylus in its original retail packaging.
Servicing - So far, none of the points you mentioned look beyond my abilities and am looking forward to giving it a clean, lube, re-belt, tension, etc. I do have one question though. Where to source good quality consumable spares? i.e. drive belt, grommets and the like. I also need to fit a new mains power cable and new phono signal/earthing leads, as the originals are all a bit shabby and the PVC sheathing is brittle and cracked. My feeling is to replace ‘like for like’, so as to keep it’s original integrity. So, after I get around to clearing my workbench in a day or two. I’ll lift the platter and investigate some of the things the people here have mentioned and report back for those who would like to see what’s under the hood, so to speak. 
After applying TLC and testing, I’ll be giving it a spin. So maybe a short youtube presentation might be fun? I would like to say at this point, it is really encouraging to feel welcomed and part of such a great community of enthusiasts. So thank you to all who have replied to this thread, and all the useful help and thoughts that have been expressed so far. Mark (artist)
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I would echo the thoughts of others and avoid the upgrade path. Have a dealer give it a complete overhaul and set up. Perhaps a new cartridge and then simply live with it and enjoy. It must also have some sentimental value too.
If the LP12 bug grabs you then buy a new one and enjoy the upgrade path while enjoying this lovely original. Plenty of folks have two players…
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This is a less is more moment (i think) , have the cartridge checked and possible stylus replaced, have it serviced and don’t tweak it
Appreciate it for what it is and what it represented
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Some Shure carts used a brush or Dynamic Stabilizer as they liked to call it. I used one on my very first turntable which was a second hand Technics SL20.
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Hi Stuart, I think one lovely ol’ deck is enough for me to be getting on with at the moment.
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A very nice LP12. I’ve had my LP 12 since 1986 and using it with Naim kit. The LP12 has been upgraded over the years from its original spec.
I see that you are in the UK and a very good dealer to use is Peter Swain at Cymbiosis who are based in Leicester.
They have all the specs of the LP12 on display plus other variants, over a dozen if I recall. Speak to them, explain what your requirements and budget are and thy should be able to help.
Because Peter is one of the bigger dealers, they also carry a lot of pre-used parts, which are in excellent condition. Over the years I have used pre-used parts that someone has enjoyed, then as I upgrade, Peter takes them back in part exchange for someone else to enjoy.
Hope that this helps.
Whatever you decide to do, enjoy your LP12 and enjoy listening to vinyl.
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The Sondek parts should be obtainable from any of the dealers who specialise in selling and maintaining LP12s. As for the SME cabling, there are plenty of specialists around who should be able to help. Having owned quite a number of SME arms, IIRC the early Series II improved used the usual proprietary 4 pin connector for the arm lead, whereas later ones moved to RCA Phono jacks on the tonearm base. Yours may well have the earlier SME connector.
As you want to use the deck, the arm cabling is the one area where you could perhaps benefit from new and improved cables - but nothing crazy and obviously it should look as stock as possible so as not too spoil anything. Perhaps consider sending the arm to a specialist such as Audio Origami and let him know that you would like a re-wire but to look as stock as possible and see what he suggests.
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Thanks again
Oh yes, I nearly forgot, if anyone re-wires the arm, try to ensure that the lovely SME phono plugs are either replaced with exactly the same NOS ones or that the originals are cleaned up and retained.
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Yes, just had a look, its a black cable with nice condition SME phonos, a must keep!
I agree - best try and get it running OK and then see what’s what (not just with the LP12 but the OP’s wider appetite for vinyl).
Personally, I’d go the dealer inspection route though and pay the price (and learn along the way from what they suggest), as they will be able to assess the condition of the internal PCB (likely a Valhalla - which often don’t age well but can easily be replaced), bearing and can do a speed-control re-set post (highly likely) a new belt, as this can be fiddly with the 2 screws (basic stuff!) and may need a timing disk and a strobe (IIRC?).
The issue I would have with attempting DIY is knowing ‘what it should sound like’, and whether even post some successful DIY (mainly to the suspension), the fundamentals of the player i.e. bearing/motor/speed control are OK.
….and let’s not forget the numerous little things which help e.g. using a stiffer spring near the arm. A good dealer does such things on auto-pilot.
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They have the same outer platter…
This one pre-dates the Valhalla. The red rocker switch confirms it’s the early basic supply, and, phase shift cap aside, is so simple it’s pretty much bullet-proof.
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I’m not sure this is the case - I think earlier outer platters are heavier than later models. That’s what I was told when I replaced mine.
If so, I wonder whether the reduced weight compensates, in part, for the heavier 'arms now in use?
I was referring to comparing the OP deck with a new one (price wise). Different parts and different performance/sound.