Hi.
It must be the photo, they are on seperate structures de-coupled from vibrations from each other.
Hi.
They are made by Supra.
TO_Vinyl
Sorry not able to send a photograph as to get to the back of my Unitilite is difficult without moving lots of furniture about and the Mrs would not be too happy.
But as I said I did connect directly to the speaker outs of the Unitilite.
I used banana plugs that were big enough for my speaker wires and the thin cables used to connect to my subwoofer amplifier high level inputs.
Before doing so I emailed Naim and Phil Harris replied that it was fine to do so.
I am not sure that it is ok on all Naim amplifiers but certainly ok on the Unitilite.
My sub is homemade and uses a Scanspeak 12 inch driver in a closed box. The amplifier is a Hypex DS40 sub amplifier at 400watts.
If I play music with bass without the sub and then switch on the sub you can hear the difference but not by a massive amount.
In my opinion the sub should just gently support the main speakers. Dont crossover too high or increase the level too much and it will integrate well.
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I must admit that one of the reasons I connect my subs at the speaker end because they have much beefier posts, accepting banana plug as well as spade plug together, compared to the Naim end. 
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I have recently moved from a Nova to the NDX2/SN3 combo and I am using 2 JL Audio d110 subwoofers with my Volti Rival speakers. They are amazingly musical subwoofers and completely disappear. They are not big at all (quite tiny in fact) but are fast and really have a knack for detailing the notes and texture at the bottom end as opposed to just moving air down there.
I previously had a single d110 in my office system which was a Uniti Nova and Harbeth C7 40th anniversary speakers. The d110 was an excellent match for the C7s as well, and since my office is smaller a single sub worked well corner-loaded. Turning it off and comparing with the C7s on their own was night and day though with it on, it was still impossible to tell the bass was coming from the sub.
The results you get all depends on how much time you spend integrating and dialing in the subs. The JLs are quite easy to dial in. Unlike the RELs they recommend the RCA outputs of the preamp, and I am sending the Sub Outs from the Supernait 3 to the left and right d110.
I have the crossover set at 50Hz (my Rivals can reach down to about 35Hz) and by swapping the positive and negative speaker cables on the speaker end (reverse polarity of the speaker) it is easy then to set a test tone at the crossover frequency and dial in the phase setting of each sub for the best results (you want to find the point where the output is lowest, then swap the speaker cables back and leave the phase setting where it is).
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@Col Thank you - this is so helpful. I like the look of the banana connectors shown by @RogerGround above (Supra Combicon). They allow you to affix the wire through a thumbscrew binding post affixed to the end of a banana plug. If I do that I should be able to run the high level cable for the REL and my M30.1 speaker cable into the amp through the same banana plug. Any issue with doing this?
Do not see any problem with your idea TO_Vinyl
Thanks everyone. I’m going to go ahead with adding a REL T7i sub to my Unitilite system. I’ll connect the sub and speakers to the amp terminals using the Supra CombiCon RogerGround uses (pictured above). When I grow into the SN3 & NDX2 (hopefully soon) I’ll be able to just swap the banana plugs and continue on. Thanks for all the help!
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