This pre-supposes that the active cross-over is ‘better’ than the passive cross-over. Invariably this will be the case but there is considerable added cost and complexity involved too.
I don’t think the challenges for an active XO are particularly great, and it doesn’t require the most expensive for an active system to sound better than passive, even a speaker with a well designed and implemented passive XO. But yes, certainly there is very considerable added cost and complexity compared to straight mono-amping of passive speakers. However, not so big a difference compared to passive multi-amping which keeps cropping up. I suspect, though don’t know, that many people running active systems start off almost by accident, e.g. already having the amps, or through some other project as I did.
Hi,
I bi-amped for many years, not with Naim but with Densen (still have them) this was a Beat 100 integrated and Beat 300 amp.
This all went into B&W 805s, the general advice was for the power amp to the bass and integrated to the top end, however it sounded better the other way around.
The amps however were designed to work like this from the outset and has different output terminals to support this to match the gain of the different power outputs (60w vs 100w).
It made the 805’s sing in a way that eluded them when single amped.
Had a nice surprise recently when a mate who I lent the 805s to over a decade ago decided to buy some new speakers (B&w 606s on special) leaving them unused. Was going to repurpose but he mentioned they go for serious money on eBay and just sold them for 1200, given they cost 1400 22 years ago shows what a good investment they were.
IIRC it was done mainly because it was possible to do so and reality and feedback from dealers showed that there were indeed end users who could not go active (because the speakers they used would not allow them to do so) but had speakers with bi-wire terminals and were wanting to bi-amp. With the Supernait, being a different kind of amp, much more “mainstream” with greater appeal to many less die-hard Naim fans, it seemed a good idea to offer the option.
As to how well bi-amping works, I guess it is down to the design and demands of the speakers. I’m sure Naim would argue that it would be better to design differently (i.e. active bi-amp) or proper single wire input passive crossover), but that’s another argument…
I wonder tentatively if a NAP200 effectively ‘bypassed’ the DR in the SN3 and a NAP200DR would be needed.
Someone will know.
If you’re plugging the 200 into the bi-amp socket, the SN3 internal DR supply is still being used.
Thanks James. My mistake. Thank you for clarifying.
Hello to all,
I have a Supernait 1 and B&W 702s2 and I need more power for my room.
Bi-amp with a NAP200 looks the right choice but Supernait has 80W and NAP200 has 70W
It would be a problem? And which amplifier do you suggest on BASS section ?
In my mind is better the final one but it has less power…
No hi-cap will be connect
Thank you Tuexoqu
I’d be tempted to use the SN as a pre-amp and get a 250DR…
Connect the Supernait to the low frequency input, like this:
However, remember that without an active crossover you are not truly driving each speaker with a separate power amp, as the amps are both connected to the passive crossover.
The gain is the same, one wont appear louder than the other.
I’d seriously advise considering a HC; a HCDR would be even better. To my ears, the power supply transforms the SN1. I got a HC along with my SN1 and wouldn’t have bought the SN without it. I’ve had a number of power supplies attached to various boxes and the one that made the biggest difference was adding HC to SN1.
Apologies for thread diversion.
Roger
Buy a better amp. The only time passive bi amping really works is with a suitable preamp and a pair of matching power amps. Then you can choose vertical or horizontal bi-amping. If you plan on using your SN3 you would use it as a preamp with a pair of matching power amps. The only way to Properly bi-amp with different Power amps is with an active external crossover.
To the OP if you want more, buy more. You could use your SN3 as preamp with say a 300DR that should drive your MA’s
What @PeakMan says is most true, which I found myself too. The SN1 is a good amp, but the addition of the hicap dr is quite extreme. If you insist on a Nap 200, be aware that it does Change the sound. It does not have more power, but it has a different sonic character. The sound will appear lighter and more transparent.
Given that you have these B&W’s, it might actually work out well. Bw’s tend to sound beefy, as well as the SN1 does without hicap. You might appreciate the touch of light.
You don’t need more power for the loudspeakers.
Also try to move them further from the wall and close the bass reflex ports.
New speakers ?
OK OK,
it seems that is better an Hi-CAP to upgrade my set
or directly change SN with pre-final system
expansive!!!
thank you
Some people prefer the Supernait with a Hicap. Others prefer it without. Get a demo and let you own ears decide rather than relying on forum wisdom to guide your decisions.
Connecting the Supernait 3 to the Hi Cap DR will only require one cable (5Pin to 5Pin DIN) not two as shown in Robert_h’s picture ?
Welcome to the forum Moisturefarmer. If you want to connect a Hicap to your Supernait 3 then you’ll need a SNAIC5 (included with a Hicap) and also a SNAIC4. The SNAIC5 takes power from the Hicap to the Supernait pre-amp, and also takes the signal output from the Supernait pre-amp into the Hicap. The SNAIC4 then takes the signal from the Hicap back to the power amp of the Supernait. Naim route signals through the supply to ensure signal earth and system earth are kept together for best performance.
This topic was automatically closed 60 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.