So a CB 250 HC and 62 serviced in December 2020 is going to be a formidable classic system. I had a CB250 before going to 2 x 135s and it sounded great with my 82 and 2 hicaps olive. Now gone with Supercap 2, replacing the hicaps.
Big issue is that now I have a 4 box amplification system. Do you want 3 boxes or just one modern box.
Personally I like the boxes but not for everyone. Increases the costs as I have two stacks of fraim with 2 bases and 8 additional shelves!
I sold my SN2 for 1650 GBP a year or so ago (Sweden). Bought it for 1700. Retail might sell them for 2000 or more with baked in 6 months warranty but private you will get them for 16-1700 nowadays.
Hi,
Can you please tell me how to turn off the display light on the Supernait?
Press the ‘pre’ button on the remote first.
Wow!
It worked, thank you!
What does “pre” do?
No worries.
‘pre’ refers to ‘pre-amp’
Looks like you got the answer, I have to say I much prefer them lights out, both on my SN3 and CDX2.
The 'Pre" softkey basically just tell the remote handset that you wish to have full pre-amp control. Otherwise, if it’s set to something else, only the volume and balance buttons respond on the pre-amp, the other buttons applying to whatever soft key you’ve pressed for another device.
For example, if I press ‘tun’ I can change channels on my Naim tuner. These Narcom remotes are very nice, and far better than the slab of shiny plastic that accompanies the Unitis and streamers.
Thank You Richard!
Hi Richard,
Pardon me for a very stupid question!
Is my connection correct? Left to right, and right to left.
I realized that if I connect like this, one of the speakers will always have its red terminal connected to the amplifier’s black end.
Heres the rear terminals, the outside are the positive terminals.
Simply follow the cables through to the end to make sure which is red and which is black. It’s possible the heatshrink on the speaker end is incorrect.
Also I cant tell from the photos, but for your interconnect from nd5xs2 to supernait, dont tighten the din collars, loosen them and pull them away from the connection end. That increases decoupling.
You’re not using the hicap? I can see it underneath in one of the photos but it’s not connected.
Thank You, I have already adjusted the Snaics. Pull the ring back right?
For the cable, I guess I should connect like this?
Yeah you can turn one upside down if you like. Personally i would just correct at the speaker end for neatness, redo the heatshrink if its wrong.
Yes leave the collar loose at the back. Only with the interconnects. Snaics - the ones for the hicap - carry power and should have the collars tight, you dont want these coming loose.
If you have your kit between the speakers then the speaker cables should likely cross over - CH1 = LEFT, CH2 = Right. Make sure you have the polarity correct for + and -.
I’d ditch / replace those brass biwire- links on pictured Elac speakers.
Hard to say without looking closely at your cables and how the plugs have been soldered. Just be sure the polarity is correct; + to +, - to -
I agree with Richard, cant tell from the photos, just follow the cable round to make sure you have + to +.
Best i can make out is this:
