Yes! Very good eagles eyes. You are spot on with all the components. My Teac is in mint condition and works perfectly. Same with all the other stuff. The California Audio Labs sounds great too.
It was a great system. It served me well for decades.
Yes! Very good eagles eyes. You are spot on with all the components. My Teac is in mint condition and works perfectly. Same with all the other stuff. The California Audio Labs sounds great too.
It was a great system. It served me well for decades.
Forte speakers?
Success!
Rega lid polished and restored to former glory. All of the accumulated cleaning marks and scratches removed (even some quite deep ones), with just the tiniest hint of swirling remaining - only visible under an unsympathetic LED light which makes it look worse than it is. A significant improvement. Thanks for the inspiration to go ahead, as this was one of those jobs I’ve been meaning to do for some time but never got around to it!
Yes. Forte II to be exact.
Good job! What did you use?
What I was thinking! My RP25 lid could do with a buff. I’m on the second lid. The first was damaged by a builder a few years ago. He owned up and replaced it. But it could do with a buff.
I remember lusting over a mid-80s catalogue of domestic Teac reel-to-reel recorders (what do you mean, ‘that’s not normal behaviour for a teenage boy’?), which I suppose might have been the last one before they got discontinued. I was wanting to see what sort of prices old ones go for these days, but I can’t remember any of the model numbers. Anyone help out?
Mark
Old car polish, which worked surprisingly - specifically Meguiars 105 (cut) on the worse areas, and 205 (finish) to refine, applied via DA and removed with microfibre cloths. Finally, all of the sides polished by hand with a polishing pad using 205.
I’m going to tackle the lid of my Okki Nokki next, although this has less swirling but quite a few much deeper scratches (courtesy of the former owner), so may not work as well.
The 205 is good stuff for finishing, I use Farcela G12 for finishing guitars but it’s very similar. I use a foam pad on a random orbital sander at low speed for the finish polish, it gets rid of all swirl marks but with the finish you have there there’s no need
Hi Yetizone,
Fantastic, great to see you’ve achieved an excellent result. Very satisfying when you get an upgrade (albeit visual!) for free! Good job.
Here’s a pretty cool site. Mine is from 1977.
https://museumofmagneticsoundrecording.org/ManufacturersTeacTascam3TeacAds.html
I remember my friend’s older brother had a Teac 3340S with “4-channel Simul-Synch”. I think the 3330S was the 2 channel version.
And I lusted then in the same manner as you described!
Been messing around again before the 300/Ps goes back to Salisbury next week, and the 252/SC goes off to Sheffield.
Not quite complete- no DR (yet) and no boltdown but
a motley gathering
and then trying out the 2i without qutest into 252/SC and 250-2 vs the 2i with qutest into the 92/FC and 300/PS.
Not a lot to choose between them surprisingly. The qutest really lifts the sq with the 92.
Of course the qutest lifts the sq and 252 even more. The 2i is vastly improved by the qutest with either.
Thanks for your answer.I asked because I recently demoed a pair of Cornwall III with an McIntosh CD player(don’t remember the model but it was in the Euro 4000 league)and integrated tube amplifier Synthesis Audio model Roma 510AC( that I purchased ).I am going now to demo the Forte III with the same boxes.Have you ever listened to the Forte III and, if yes, any thoughts?Thank you and compliments for your system.
Jason, what cart you using in your Rp6? Apologies if it is already posted somewhere else as I already have form for this …
And why would be useful, I have Exact 2 in both Rp6 and Planar 3
How do you find your exact 2 just wondering
Which receiver is that? Those blue backlit 70s vintage receivers are so cool - I wish I still had my Nikko 9095 from college. And the first “good” stereo I ever saw had a Pioneer SX-626 in it.