That looks superb @NorfolkT - really neat and tidy, great colour matching, and cable dressing done to perfection (at least how it looks on the photos 
).
A great space to lose yourself in Im sure.
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Something a bit different.
Trying Exposure 3010 pre with 2 x XM9 mono power amps. On loan from Cymbiosis all Fed by a Naim NDX5XS2
Bit untidy my TT normally sits there but much easier to connect😁
Was curious as it costs about the same as a Supernait 3.
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I really like the Exposure 3010S2 integrated amp. I wonder how its equivalent pre and amp sound like!
This is my first listen of exposure.
I did contact them and ask which is better the pre with the stereo power amp or pre with twin monos and they said twin monos. Due to separate power supplies and channel separation. As you can see i dont have too much space so the half width of the XMs is welcome
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Dave - fabulous looking setup! What are the SL2s you’ve referred to that you’ve tightened up? Are they on the Fraim?
How do you find the acoustics in a room with sloping eaves? Reason I ask, is I have a hobby room above a double garage that I built in lockdown 1 last year! It’s currently occupied by father in law who is in between house moves, but when he has left if might be repurposed as a cinema/music/model railway room. I always assumed that the acoustics wouldn’t be great but very happy to be proven wrong!
I hope they are not on the Fraim! They are (quite legendary) Naim speakers and visible in Dave’s pictures in various states of assembly.
He tightened up the bolts. The SL2 uses fancy methods for decoupling things (e.g., as you can see in Dave’s pictures, the tweeters are mounted on a separate construction), so the bolt torques are important:
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Thanks Mike. That’s kind of you. Yes as the guys have said the SL2s are the speakers. It’s quite fun making sure the bolts are tightened to the correct torque setting. I do this every six months or so.
The loft room sounds really good. It’s a relatively small room but the system and the SL2s do drive the room really well.
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thanks for the explanation
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Due to an unfortunate mistake with the veneer application on my DIY speakers i had to remove the original and replace with new. It was quite a job but has turned out really well and i am very happy. I used a much more reliable method for the replacement and no shortcuts were used.
I also took the time to sink in some magnets with epoxy and make some grills. This was really time consuming and i can understand why commercial speakers cost so much.
I have used American white oak. It is a real book matched wood veneer.
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They look outstanding! I admire your skill.
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Thank you.
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Just an awesome job!! If they sound as good as they look, you’re one happy camper 
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Thank you, they absolutely do and i am really happy. They are by a very well reputed DIY designer. Troels Gravesen. Every speaker he designs is the best that HE can do with that particular combination of drivers. He has been operating his site for 20 plus years so has plenty of experience. I have made 3 designs from his site now, and will probably never own anything else. In comparison with commercial speakers it places replacements way out of my price range.
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They do look very impressive and imposing, nice to have a room that fit too!
Hopefully you did the interface plates while doing the bass units. No other bolts need to be touched.
Yes Nigel I did.
Excellent. How could I possibly doubt you?
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I’ve no idea Nigel.
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Let’s try to keep on topic - pictures of your system. Thanks.
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@Dunc - you are an expert in these things. The rad pipe is unsightly so I want to box it in. Is there a way of removing the TRV from the top of the pipe or will that be impossible (water everywhere) as it’s no longer connected to to the rad? If I can safely remove it that will make the boxing in more straightforward. If not, no problem, I’ll box around it.
Apologies Richard - I know it’s off thread topic - but there’s not much online to help with this one. Cheers Dave