But if weāre talking the right length for soundquality,.then itās around 6-8 meters for Naca5.
But 3.5 meters sound better than one meter,.and then you have the right length purely technically for the series over Uniti Atom,Star,Nova.
But he has an Atom and it doesnāt matter what the length is for an Atomās SQ. So I think your advice to him is not actually at all helpful or even is actually wrong Peder.
I owned the Sopra1ās for over a year, I drove mine with a 272/XPSDR/250 DR, all Superlumina cables. I thought that combo sounded really good, would I want to drive them with an Atom, no, because in the back of your mind, you are always going to be wondering, what if I upgrade to this or that.Even with what I had, I started thinking about a 300DR, or a 282/252, so I doubt you would be happy with the Atom /Sopraās for long.
Iām looking to get some NACA 5 cables. There are ones terminated with the Naim 4mm one piece speaker plug that goes into the amp site. Itās more a right angle like picture one.
The Atom comes with the type in the second picture
You should use the plugs that come with the Atom. As the + and - sockets are arranged vertically the other plugs wonāt fit. The cables would also stick out sideways rather than going straight back. There is a reason why Naim put the correct plugs in the boxā¦
Whether easy to drive or not has almost nothing to do with sensitivity.
Sensitivity is not efficiency. It purely measures the response from 2.83v. Thatās it.
Easy to drive speakers could be even 84db and 4 Ohms. Generally what makes a speaker easy to drive is a predictable and flattish impedence curve. Amps struggle when impedence fluctuates. So a 4 Ohm speaker at 84db that never goes below 3.6 or above 4.4 Ohms would make an amp happier than one that is 100db and 8 Ohms but prone to dip to 2 Ohms and up to 12 Ohms. Thereās even more to it than that really. Phase angles and proneness to move to either capicitance or inductance as impedence changes etc. These thing all mean more than sensitivity.
I think the Atom is a very clever design equally at home as a lifestyle product and a serious audio product . I would perhaps go for the Kef R3 rather the L50.
Thatās really nicely explained. My little UQ2 drives my Neat Iotas very happily despite them being 84dB sensitivity, which if you looked at the pure specs you might not expect.
i had always thought, till now, than higher the db , in 8 ohm, and easier the speakers to drive.
But in my example of Audionote AN E speakers, 100 db in 8 ohm, they are driven easily by an audionote power amp of 8 watts.
Horn speakers need generally not many watts to be driven, not?
Maybe the Sopras No1 can be a little excessive for the Atom, and I also see it more with LS50, P3ESR, Tablette 10 and the like, which already have a quality beyond doubt, but I think the combination can work very well and, with a little awareness, become definitive; but Naim, on its website, recommends the Sopra range with SN2; whereas with the NAC252 and NAP300 it suggests the Utopia range, nothing less than the III!
The truth is that, despite my nick, at this point I do not understand this empenation of some by recommending super amplifications with some speakers that, in every light, and even at the discretion of the same manufacturer, can work, and work, very well with much more reasonable things.
The best test I have is the combination of my main system:
In the first instance, and since the attribution of the confidence by the newcomer, some of the comments on the thread left me quite sloping, so much so that if I had been a rookie or a pawn, I would have gone down the path of the super-update without hesitation, when everything is much more simple to balance a system and it doesnāt take as much money or million-pound-euro-dollar amplifications to satisfy the need to listen to recorded music with a more than reasonable and even superlative quality.
Basically similar in the case of the user-member Rojo, who opened a post with the tribulations of his system in Dubai, in which he was recommended almost gold and more, and subsequently achieved the balance he was looking for with a few simple balls of squash cut in half:
Itās frustrating, while at the same time and on the other hand we open threads on climate change, the political crisis, or the already more than inturated mismatch of our way of proceeding with the undemocratic rules of Nature.
Of course, a system must be composed with a minimum balance, but I wonder if much of the āwisdomā is of hearing or mere posture, and I do not know if at some point you have considered that you may be doing a disservice.
Finally, it is not richer who has the most, but who least desires.
The flip side of this is from amplifiers. The capability of a power amp isnāt entirely defined by the power output. A SN2 is 80W, a 250 DR is also 80W and a 300DR is just 10W more, but the 250DR and 300DR are much more capable amps than the SN2.
Some high sensitivity speaker are an easy load, but in that case they suffer with poor bass performance and/or usually have big boxes to help compensate. They also very often have uneven frequency response curves. On the other hand some high sensitivity designs have flatter frequency response curves but very uneven impedance curves so they trade gains frequency response against being a difficult load for the amplifier. Itās all an engineering compromise to deal with resonances in the components used to make the speakers.
I think you are conflating cause with correlation. It is true that many easy to drive speaker have higher impedence and sensitivity. However they are not easy to drive because of high impedence and sensitivity. And assuming this has been a common and expensive mistake by many a valve amp owner. There are loads of 100db speakers that are a real bitch to drive.
ok, itās seems more complicated than i thoughtā¦however, as you said, most high impedance and sensitivity speakers are easy to drive. But not a generality as i thought.
It would be more accurate to say most easy to drive speakers just happen to have high sensitity, but most speakers with high sensitivity are not easy to drive.
Therefore, if you have a <30w amp: Beware! Dragons be here.
Hope that helps.
You need an impedence and phase angle graph. Since almost no manufacturers publish that, the experience of a good dealer who has done much trial and error testing is key.
Like so many things, the spec sheets for hifi tell you nothing reliable about the compatibility of any two components. Buying on spec is roulette.
Makers publish the specs that punters think they want, not the specs they need (but generally donāt want).