Thermal paste

Thanks.

I stand corrected!

Interesting, Forum members thinking they know better than Naim.

I started the initial topic as praise for Naim the service department and my dealership in responding to an issue I had with my NAP 500 and to provide info on what I witnessed during the build of such a complex piece of equipment
Somehow it has turned into a place for Forum members to to pick fault and criticise the way Naim products are manufactured when they have absolutely no idea what is involved and have no idea what they are talking about.

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Yes, I know. The fact that the guy who builds them comes to your house and sorts it out is fantastic, and something very few companies would do, I’m sure. There is an obsessive element to some of the posts, which has turned your wholly positive original post into something to whinge about. The forum is often really good, but this unfortunately is the opposite. I’m sure you remember the Harry Enfield line, ‘you don’t want to do it like that, you want to do it like this’.

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Yes it was DR’ed in 2017, certainly not going to worry about a bit off solder and flux, as i am sure Naim was happy with it, and that will do for me, plus it looks much the same as the other pic, to me once you zoom in past the black marker pen.
Cheers

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No doubt Naim would of tested it so all should be well. When a board is reworked and components are desoldered and changed it can quite often look like that. Nature of the beast. Nothing to worry about. If all sounds good then it is good.

From my own experience of PCB assembling for many years, i can tell you that there is no way those transistors were soldered from the top.

To those who knew what thermal paste is and it’s properties, thank you for the education. It’s been interesting and gives me a little more insight into electronics and the reasons why things are done the way they are.

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You sir, are exactly correct. Too much paste is as bad as too little, because the paste itself, if applied thickly, is not a good heat exchanger.
And while the application of it doesn’t have to be perfect, a bit of practice helps, even if one has to waste a bit thru applying it, then separating the parts to make sure it’s covering most of the surface with a thin, but thorough, coat.
Better to waste some practicing, then waste it when it spurts out the sides.

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I have seven classics boxes and have never had an urge to open any of them. I wonder if one might want to know torque values for tightening the bolts again after closing, in case it makes a difference for controlling mechanical resonance of the casing? :man_shrugging:

When I had a 42.5 I opened it to fit phono boards. When I acquired a 282 secondhand one of the Aux2 RCA connectors was a bit loose and I opened the case to retighten it. I’ve not ever opened any other Naim box I owned.

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For the life of me, I can’t see who’s having a go at Naim. The technicians home call is a well known thing that naim audio have done before and I’m sure they will do it again.
I recall reading about a chap with a big 135 system in the USA who had some issues, JV sent an engineer over to get it sorted, any high end manufacture would do the same if they wanted to stay in business.
The fact that this thread was started is purely for my educational purposes and who ever else that is interested. To my surprise you’ve even learnt something from the thread , now you know what thermal paste is. It’s not interesting to you so what it is to me and others.
As stated it was brought to my attention by a friend who had his olive nap 250 serviced (Came back sounding amazing), when he opened it up because it’s his and he can, he’s an educated guy and would like to see the work done. He noticed it had an over amount of paste. He’s a big audio geek and has a number of systems including Cyrus, audio lab,naim, Perreaux audio, some Reel to Reels many LP players direct drive and belted and so on. He simply pointed the mess and commented he’s never seen that amount of thermal paste being applied. So I wanted to fine out why. Not a winge or anything just a question and it’s been answered.
It’s a shame you see things in a different light and need to put your 2 cents in when it’s just not the case.
Oh and to those who feel looking inside the box is weird, if that’s the case are technicians weird? At some stage these people open up a box to get interested and learn

Have a look inside one of Peter Perreaux (Original Perreaux audio) builds and see how things can look. A truly off the planet technician. Very interesting stuff.
For what’s its worth I think spending a lot of time on an unpaid Internet forum is weird but that’s not for me to point out.

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Every morning I apply a bit of thermal paste on my head, put the heat sink on it, et voila, heated discussions are no issue at all anymore. I cool down fastly whilst this planet is warming.

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Cool, I hope it helps your issues.

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You won’t see any sealant oozing out of gaskets anywhere as gaskets don’t contain sealant.
Gaskets are the seal between two interfaces. They’ll be no sealant used on your Bentley example so they’ll be nothing to ooze out.

So you think, its common practice for car service agents to use sealants with gaskets, particularly when the vehicle has been serviced for an issues. Good on ya mate have another go would ya😄
Rolls Royce invented haylomar blue for a reason check it out, Naim use it a lot

Seriously This forum has become a tool for the picture perfect know all’s. It’s sickening and not internationally friendly at all. Not worth the effort these days. You tell the truth and it gets edited as the admins having tea service tea with the member your calling out. I’m sure this will be deleted soon. I’ll never buy into Naim again or push it to my many audiophile friends as ive done for many many years.

I’m quite sure it’s common practice for car service agents to use sealant with gaskets but it’s wrong to do so. I know what Blue Hylomar is and who invented it but it would not be part of a Bentley engine build. It does have it uses if you are stuck without a serviceable gasket for a low stress siutation and can be used to help ensure that a paper/fibre gasket stays in place during assembly.

I’m not having a go, it was you that used the Bentley analogy. :expressionless:

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Yes, I’m with you there.

I too have built a fair few PCs and many years ago maintained a lot of extremely sensitive, precision electronic control equipment.

With higher torque applications we would apply evenly a fraction more than required, then if it did not squeeze out as you torqued up the nuts and bolts, undo and apply a bit more. The requirement to sight additional thermal paste evenly distributed after tightening was often written into the quality assurance docs.

Hi Steve Had the same. Radeon 9670M? Didn’t bake mine, though i know that can work, but got a PX card swap.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/7228/apple-initiates-video-card-replacement-program-for-radeon-hd-6970m-equipped-mid2011-27-imacs

With respect a simple google search.

Oil pan gasket, to seal or not to seal?

I am replacing my oil pan gasket on Sunday. I have read through here, e30tech, r3v, and the Bentley. The Bentley says to use a sealant in addition to the gasket, while most people on the forums say to not or that it is not necessary. What’s the best way to go here? It doesn’t seem like additional sealant could hurt, but maybe it could?

While not gospel I would suggest it’s more common than not. Yes just google search it, it will always give conflicting information for sure.
Hey I’m sure you’re correct because your an Englishmen and I’m a silly New Zealander that lives in a city that’s covid free.

I haven’t followed your thread but I did see this comment. It’s not worth allowing anything you read on social media to spoil the pleasure you get from owning Naim and listening to your music on it imo.

Cheers,
Chris

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