Wall socket or IEC connector for dedicated audio group?

I have a dedicated audio group for my audio with a Gigawatt circuit breaker. I will soon change the standard wiring for this group to a more audiophile wire from either Furutech or Gigawatt. The shop where I could audition these different wires had the wires finished with an IEC connector directly from individual circuit breakers so he could plug them directly into a to demonstrate the differences. He asked me whether I will connect a wall socket or put an IEC connector at the end of the wire and then connect this directly to a powerblock.

What is the advantage of each as I would like to hear an independent point of view.

I am in the Netherlands so please keep that in mind as our connections here are different than in the UK.

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@RvL
Since we are both Dutch and since you set up several audio groups, could you elaborate on the above?

I keep reading also about consumer units in other threads, do you know if we have such items in Holland?

That’s an unusual option and may not be available in all countries. So I’m not sure anyone could answer. But, things to consider:

  • A direct connection always offers better integrity of any type of current. But…
  • A Naim PoweLine cable is designed to decouple the hifi from cable borne microphonics. That’s the primary benefit of the PowerLine
  • With a direct connection, you are also more efficiently coupling the hifi to upstream microphony and noise - which you don’t want to do.

Which offers the most benefit or least problems could be debated forever. I think you’ll have to just guess. But I’d go for a socket. It’s more flexible and doesn’t need to be removed if you sell the house.

Hi @Hifi_Naim_CNNL,

Not sure I understand your first post. Does the shop suggest to run the cables to audition & compare directly to a component or to a power block/strip that feeds your system?

Cheers, Richard

Yes the shop lets me audition it and connect it to the powerblock.

He said that the cable I eventually choose and pull through the wall can be assembled with an IEC at the end which can then be connected to a block directly instead of first a wall socket and then a power cable to the block.

The cable would not go directly to the different devices but to a powerblock first. From there on any cable can be chosen to go to the different hifi.

Then you can probably get the full benefit of both.

But if you move, you’ll need to have it terminated in a wall socket… Unless the buyer is an audiophile.

I’d still go for socket purely for the flexibility.

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I agree with @feeling_zen. I have my audio group cable terminated with a 20A IEC connector (with the larger horizontal pins) connecting to the power block. Purely for convenience and flexibility.

The cable runs from the circuit breaker about 15 meters through the walls & 1 floor up to the power block behind my system. From there with Power-Lines to the components.

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What’s the reason you chose for the 20A connector instead of the more common C13 connection? Aren’t our circuit breakers max 16A anyway?

Also, would you mind to specify which powercable you used and the circuit breaker?

Do you have multiple groups or only one and connect all hifi to this same group?

From your description of larger horizontal pins i suspect you mean a C19
image

Which is actually an IEC 16A connector, not 20A.

I was considering doing the same as my Chord powerhaus M6 power block has the matching C20 plug built in.

I don’t think so. Seems something like this is 20A.

Yes, it’s a bit confusing. I use a C19/C20 connection (Furutech rhodium btw). The female plug is C19 while the male inlet on the power block is C20. Most are rated 20A.

This is because circuits in Japan are nominal 20A so they produce their IEC male plugs to conform to that.

Regardless of the plug used and cable, you still have to follow the electrical code in your country with respect to load applied. Which of course could be a lot less than 20A.

@RvL , I meant which brand / model power line do you have going from the circuit breaker to the Puritan block?

@Hifi_Naim_CNNL, I have a 5 x 1.5mm² shielded cable from Kemp Elektronics. I installed my audio group 7 years ago and this cable is not available anymore, it seems. The circuit breaker is a gold plated Siemens Sitor cylindrical fuse cartridge with Hifi-Tuning fuses.

Back then, I’ve spend months comparing different cables. Solid core, shielded/unshielded, larger/smaller diameter. The cables were running loose over the foor and up the stairs, allowing each cable to settle in for weeks etc. My better half was a lot less amused by all this to put it mildly…

If your house allows, I’d strongly recommend considering a dedicated earth for the audio group too. I got a dedicated earth pin installed (in the crawl space under the house) providing clean low resistance earth for the audio group. This costed less than just the parts for the audio group and the sonic improvement in my house was at least as big as from the audio group…

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Was that done by a standard electrician or a specialist in earthing?

Yes. This must be done by a specialist company that provides a certificate and measuring report for the work done (at least here in NL). I recall it was 300-350 euros at the time.

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So to confirm I understand it correctly:
You have your dedicated spur terminated with a C19 plug instead of a wall socket. This is then plugged directly into your Puritan unfiltered 108 block right?

Have you compared the Puritan to other unfiltered blocks?

Yes, the spur runs from the circuit breaker straight into the Puritan power strip/block.

I compared quite a few power strips at the time. In my room, system, ears etc, this one came out on top for me. But this ‘outcome’ is of little value due to all the variables at play. House, the condition of the mains, circuit breaker & fuses, cabling, room, system, personal taste, etc. etc. :woozy_face:

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Have you also tried the DC version of the 108?