We too are very happy Gaia owners with a very springy suspended wooden floor. Bit of thread drift here, but I’m intrigued by your comment about the isolation platform for the rack you are installing later this week. We have to approach our LP12 with a very delicate tread but cannot put it on a wall shelf for a range of reasons. Are you happy to expand on what this isolation platform is and how it will work? We are at the stage of wondering whether we need to rip up the wooden floor and try to do something to reinforce the joints but it’s quite a large room and that feels a bit drastic. Any other ideas would be gratefully received!
Hi @Bozz88
My listening suite is in my Cabin at the bottom of the Garden. Named the “Audio Cave” and my sanctuary from the world.
The problem is it’s a 100% timber building. It is lined on the walls with plasterboard which is insulated behind with 40mm polystyrene insulation. The Roof is slightly vaulted and 3m at the apex.
The problem is the floor!
The cabin sits on a 120mm deep, cast concrete slab. The floor is framed on the slab and boarded with 20mm pine boards. Its springy as hell and I have to creep around when playing records as the LP12, even on the Full Fraim, jumps likes crazy.
We are intending to drill through the floor into the concrete and create a stable platform grounded into the concrete and 100% isolated from the structure. We are going to use long (30cm) Concrete Bolts and fix a 1 inch thick sheet of Ply Wood on top of the bolts.
IF it works, you should be able to have a barn dance in there and the TT won’t give a damn… 
Interesting. Any difference in Sound Quality, or HiCap humming?
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Thanks for that - drat, not a solution for us as the floor is over a void. We’ll have to stick to ballet when approaching the LP12 and be envious of your barn dancing!
Thought – if your wood floor isn’t that deep (less than the depth of a Fraim base spike?), could you not simply drill holes to enable the Fraim spikes (suggest putting something underneath to protect against rust/oil them up) to sit on the concrete?
Apols if I’ve misunderstood.
My current house had a similar outbuilding but the previous owners neglected the guttering, such that the water ran on to and across the slab, with inevitable consequences for the floor!
Sadly, with the 2x2 framing and 20mm boards we are looking at about 50mm from surface of the concrete to floor level.
We did consider just standing the Fraim spikes on top of the bolts, but the accuracy required for the bolts into the concrete would almost certainly make this impossible. Especially as the slab is rebar reinforced which could make the drilling process “INTERESTING”… 
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you could try expandable foam although try a small area first !
My new pair of REL S/510 subs showed up today. They are heavy for their size at 70 lbs (32 kg) each. The older R-328 I’m replacing are 45 lbs.
I’ve only unpacked and sited them so far. I still need to dial them in. With just a guestimate based on my previous REL R-328 settings they sound really good so far.
Comparison of the old and new, R-328 on left, S/510 on right.
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So far no difference in sound quality, also did not paid attention to the hicap humming.
“What was the last bit of gear you built”.
Sometimes you can go cheap. Powerline highway 1. (For the sensitive ones. They are not visible and hidden behind the rack 
)
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Smartbud ear inspection tool. SWMBO thought I was needing the volume on the 252 much higher than her so Santa supplied this.
She was right. Not silly enough to dig in my own ears with this sort of thing but a camera down the ear canal faced with a wall of dark brown impacted wax was enough to make me book a professional ear cleanse via microsuction.
Took less than two minutes per ear to remove two decades of gunk.
Can now see the old eardrums again, and more to the point I do now need a few less presses on the volume 
I’ve also just had to slightly adjust balance and small details are definitely clearer.
That SuperLumina interconnect purchase can wait.
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Eewww! But that’s a great result😂
Hi James,
did you have the chance to measure the current draw?
Many thanks in advance
This has now gone back and I have been refunded:
It worked fine for one day after arrival and then refused to play any CDs. I cleaned the laser, but to no avail.
Oh well…
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I was aware that Naim recommends at least 3,5m length for Naca5 but just recently understood that 5-10m is recommended for optimal performance.
Also I knew that dedicated termination for speaker cables are provided by Naim, but thought the Bananas my dealer installed were just good enough.
So I was curious what I was missing and swapped 2x3,5m Naca5 with bananas against 2x7,5m with proper Naim terminals and the sound improvements exceed my expectations.
The longer cables with Naim termination seem to give more body to the music, maybe more bass and relaxed treble, overall sounding more natural to me, more details as well maybe?
A small but worthwhile improvement.
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That’s a shame: the old ReVox gear is good looking kit. Shows the pitfalls of buying older gear, though.
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Measured it this morning. Mine draws 430mA running on 5V.
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Thank you!
How is the oM compared to the ADOT?
Yes it’s a really good upgrade.
Hi. Yes indeed, the risk of buying old, pre-owned equipment!
Generally speaking, I haven’t done too badly though with used equipment.