I am new to the forum and I am a happy owner of nait 2.
Today I was lucky enough to bring home a NAC62 + HICAP + NAP250 at a great price but without cables.
Could you tell me which cables to buy and how to connect the three unit?
Thanks to those who will be able to help me,
Davide from Italy
Welcome to the forum Davide!
You’ll need a SNAIC5 for use between the NAC62 and Hicap, and a DIN4-XLR lead to take pre-amp signal from the Hicap to the NAP250.
What source will you be using? How about speakers and speaker cable? See the forum FAQ for speaker cable requirements - the NAP250 needs at least 3.5m per channel of NACA5.
Thanks Richard for your very quick response,
I only use the turntable, a Xerxes roksan with PSU, Linn adikt.
The Nac62 is equipped with a phono S card but the man also gave me two NA322 / 4 boards which is for MM, right?
The speakers are Harbeth P3esr with Skylan stand.
I use DNM reson speakers cables
I just buy the two cables needed for the connections.
Would you be kind enough to tell me exactly where to connect them?
Yes, the SNAIC5 goes between the NAC62 and the Hicap - you connect to the 240 degree DIN5 socket on each with the banded end closest to the NAC62. Note that the NAC62 may well have its link plug fitted. You remove the link plug and connect to that socket. Then connect the DIN4-XLR to the Hicap to one of the DIN4s - any of the 3 is fine but connect to the one closest to the DIN5 to keep signal paths shortest - and the XLR end to the NAP250. What ever you do only ever make or break these connections with all power switched off. Good luck.
did I buy the right ones?
“Naim Style” makes me think they may not be the genuine article. The overly short length is the give-away that they are not from Naim. Naim’s are 1 - 1.25m.
Note also that fake “SNAICs” are not to be discussed here - at best they will impair overall performance and at worst may well cause damage to Naim equipment.
They are from Flashback Sales, £25.99 for 0.5m.
Yes are from flashback
As Richard says above, fake Snaics cannot be discussed here and performance is not guaranteed. The connections between the boxes is really important and I’d suggest it’s a mistake to compromise here. If it was me I would cancel the order and get a proper Naim Snaic5. You can often find them used for a good price. The din to XLR is less of an issue as it doesn’t carry power. The Naim one is very good and is not expensive, it’s much cheaper than the Snaic5.
Have you a link to the 4din xlr original?
i didn’t buy or used various snaic5 that i found its various sites because they were all with the ring lock
Its a very good idea to have a locking ring & to use it on a SNAIC.
A disconnect of power with a SNAIC can cause damage.
If you are thinking of the ‘tuning tip’ about the locking rings affecting sound, BEWARE as that only applies with the signal IC’s. It does NOT APPLY to SNAIC.
You can use the ring lock DINs on the older latching sockets without any issues - just ensure the rings are in their full unlocked position, and be careful not to accidentally unplug when powered up.
The correct Naim leads can be bought from any Naim dealer, some of whom even have online shops for accessories.
I’ve just looked on uk eBay and there is a black Snaic 5 with the plugs to fit the 62. There is also one of the current locking ring versions.
That appears correct. Also, the SNAIC should have a sleeve near one end. That end goes on the pre-amp.
does not work! I connected the cables as in the image above but it doesn’t work, a slight uhm is heard.
I had to connect a snaic 4 as in the photo and now it works.
That’s not normal. A Hicap should have a single rail 24V on socket 3, not socket 2. However if the dual rail connection between socket 4 on there Hicap and the upgrade socket of the pre-amp is not working then I would suspect either SNAIC or Hicap as possibly having a problem. I am curious about the Hicap…