A fantastic classic steak recipe, we do it often, but you really need to wear a suit and plug in the hostess trolley!
Martin
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The hostess trolley! Now that’s retro!
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Had over the weekend.
Lovely balanced chardonnay from Martinborough.
Nice oak and butter notes etc
2020 On Giant’s Shoulders Chardonnay NZ
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Lots to unpack here, and I have quite a lot of work to get done (including writing about the trip to Hungary!).
But, briefly:
Slovak Tokaj
Tokaj is the only delimited (PDO - protected designation of origin) wine area in the world which is in two countries. Although, of course, it has for much of its history been in one country/empire: Tokaj-Hegyalja.
The Slovak part in the north (still Hungarian speaking) was carved off as part of the Trianon Treaty. But it is a tiny fraction of the whole - 3 villages and about 2.5% of the total Tokaj vineyard area. There is less mist here (the real generator of this is the confluence between the Tisa and Bordrog rivers in the town of Tokaj itself, only the Bodrog flows through Slovakia) and therefore less reliable Botrytis development.
Accordingly the Slovak sweet wines have not been as highly regarded. For this reason the producers went big on dry Furmint when it was becoming apparent that dessert wines were not the (immediate) future in fashion terms. This is something that the Hungarian producers had always done, but in small part and to less fanfare, so no-one can claim to have ‘started it’. Although both do.
Note (although obviously you know this) in Hungarian, the suffix -i, is the same as -er in German or 's in English, therefore the place is Tokaj and a product from the place is Tokaji.
Austria
Around Lake Neusiedl(see), especially in Rust (although elsewhere, including the Hungarian ‘jigsaw-piece’ of Sopron) there is ample opportunity for botrytis development and therefore sweet wine production - which has been regarded and valued for most of wine’s history (certainly more than it is now). There is (or perhaps was) even some ice wine due to the cold winter air coming down from the Alps. This was all part of the Austro-Hungarian empire and before that the Kingdom of Hungary, so it is unsurprising that there is much crossover. The Austrian word ‘Ausbruch’ is simply the German for “Aszú” and - at least originally - meant the same thing - addition of concentrated botrytis must to a fermenting otherwise dry(-ish) wine. Nowadays both terms are simply defined in terms of how much residual sugar there is, but it can remain the same method of mixing two pressings: one intensely sweet (Eszencia) and one normally-harvested dry must. The Austrians do not use the term so much these days, but it is still made. In richness terms it sits between ‘Beerenauslese’ and Trockenbeerenauslese’ (closer to the latter) somewhat to the confusion of wine students.
Flor
Called Voile in Jura, Flor only happens with dry wines, and can be a problem (especially with reds) if it is not controlled, or deliberate. It is sensitive to alcohol, sugar, temperature and humidity. It forms a protective covering which acts as an oxygen barrier (which is why Fino sherry is the same colour as any white wine), and this property was highly regarded when there were few alternatives (airtight, inert gasses etc). It’s a type of yeast and feeds on glycerol in the wine (and any remaining sugar, although the original yeast is likely to have consumed all that), making the wine seem even drier than it may already be, and enhancing the impression of acidity. It also imparts a flavour of its own which the Spanish call ‘manzanilla’ - their word from ‘chamomile’. With Fino Sherry that’s pretty much all you get (although the wines can then subsequently be aged with oxygen to get all the brown/nutty stuff and may then be sweetened (although the latter only by evil people)).
In Jura you get the fruit flavour of the less neutral grapes they use (Savignin or Chardonnay), and the cooler, damper climate prolonging the growing season (compared to Jerez) as well, and in Tokaj similarly there is all the delights of the acidity of and apple flavours of Furmint, and the others (one of which is Muscat). In both cases the wine may be oxidised as there are enough protectant properties (alcohol and or temperature mainly).
Ben, your question: “Did you see any evolution in style as I have heard that traditional styles are being eschewed somewhat? Friend of mine starting to import Slovak tokaj so I am curious as to similarities and differences.”
This is a tricky one because the ‘traditional style’ was for the wine to be oxidised - there was not much choice and with all that sugar, bacteria were not likely to flourish. During the communist era, which they are - naturally enough - desirous of moving away from, this, and a general lack of hygiene (or even care) was what became ‘traditional’, and one needs to be careful putting the question to a Hungarian producer. Deliberate oxidation is great. Accidental oxidation usually results in contamination (vinegar or various musty-tasting chemicals). Most modern Tokaj is allowed some oxidation (there is not much choice in the matter when wine is aged in barrels), but it is controlled and less likely to be result in mahogany coloured wines which have lost their fruit. For me this is a good thing…!
So, there! Egészségedre!*
(*But not’ egész seggedre" which means something altogether different. And they will delight in teaching you it wrong so that they can suppress a giggle when you go around shouting ‘arse’ all over the place.)
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It’s the 150th anniversary of the founding of The Wine Society this year and yesterday they hosted a lunch across 7 cities simultaneously. Tickets were by ballot and we were lucky enough to get a pair (they weren’t free though) for the London event held at Plaisterer’s Hall in the City. 7 of the Anniversary wines were served at the meal and each of the 7 cities had one of the winemakers as a guest speaker - we had Victor Urrutia, CEO of CVNE who make the 2004 Gran Riserva. This was the menu:
Stand out for me was the 2016 Barolo which has unfortunately now sold out but I will get some of the 2019 Kumeu River Chardonnay which was also excellent. It was a very jolly event and there would be 1200 very happy people across the country who wobbled home late yesterday afternoon
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Thanks for the detail - interesting stuff adding to the little I knew. Thanks too for taking the time to answer.
My simplified understanding was that in Hungary, maybe Slovakia too, a barrel of botrytis grapes were left open to the air to ferment, at a certain point they were added to the base wine. Hence the risk of contamination as you explained it. Whereas in Rust the base wine was added to the botrytis grapes. I see from your explanation that it was more complicated.
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Attended the equivalent lunch in Liverpool. A very enjoyable time. Unfortunately Paul Brajkovich got stranded in London so we did not hear him talk about the Kumeu River Chardonnay but having met him last Thursday I was reasonably relaxed. Already ordered a couple of bottles to cellar a bit longer. I really enjoyed all three reds especially the CVNE and the Weinert which had aged beautifully. The 2011 Symington was also most enjoyable. A pretty good afternoon out in spite of the rain sheeting across the Mersey.
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Wonder how they got English asparagus in September?
I had the exact same thought!
I must admit I skipped over the London menu which was markedly different to what was served in Liverpool. Ironic that the Herdwick would have travelled past us on its way to London; we had beef!
More interestingly we had the French serving convention of cheese and port before pud and stickie. This was very much enjoyed by us as we prefer cheese, the Symington way more enjoyable than the Doisy Daene and we had to head for our train before the dessert served!
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The lamb was very good and worked well with the 3 reds. I prefer cheese at the end so I can have more red wine! But agree the Symington was excellent. Great lunch
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According to a (retired) dentist I know, cheese at the end also better for the teeth. Something to do with neutralising acids in the mouth I think ?
But I prefer your rationale !
Paul
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Mother-in-law mentioned earlier this year that she always wanted to visit Lake Garda so here we are! This Corvina caught my eye in a local vinothek and I love this wine because it is so complex and yet undemanding. Neverending berries, no oaky overtones but earthy umami, hint of tobacco. Just layman‘s terminology for a perfect wine for this evening in Sirmione.
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Our main regional meeting last night, so tasting & dinner with the odd nice bottle
first off to the day to celebrate my recent Birthday Bollinger La Grande Annee 2008 - what a vintage, sublime
we were then joined by Travis MD of Kilikankoon Claire valley to taste through the current range - my FAV Morts Block 2022 Riesling - BUY the 2022 before the GO!
and then Travis showed Top wine of Kilikanoon Attunga, but more than that 2004,2005,2006, 2007
2007 was a bad bottle
2006 - Off the Chart stunning, then 2005
then with dinner, M.Chapoutier E’rmite 2016, we dont work with Michel any more but what a sublime red old Syrah from Hermitage Hill
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C’est l’automne .
La Chasse , Le vendange and pool temp 22 c !
We are making Soupe au Pistou for supper and suddenly feel the need to drink some red wine
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Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir Central Otago 2022
Grown on a vineyard jutting into a hairpin bend in the Clutha River near Queenstown.
It’s a very long meaty, dark cherry and liquorice flavoured wine. Opened too young, still a bit tannic and has years ahead of it. Great with roast chicken and loads of gravy.
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It’s a beauty IDAK as all the FR Pinots are
Not to mention their Riesling’s and Chardonnay’s
About to crack open the 2014 Block 5 Pinot
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Yep, they’re all blinking heavenly. Yet to breach some 2021 Calvert block. Their Chardonnays are underrated and underpriced.
Nice job with that shopping mall in Maroochydore by the way. Good use of the canal.
Yep it’s a great shopping centre that one IDAK , loved working on that one , a great investment
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